Re-connecting with YYYY and finding other gems

Posted by: Gail

Re-connecting with YYYY and finding other gems - 08/12/13 01:08 AM

I haven't climbed YYYY in years and years. I remember having a melt down trying to get into the corner on P2. I couldn't find any pro and I was terrified to make the move into the corner.

I re-climbed YYYY this weekend and found it to be thoroughly enjoyable. What an awesome final pitch (except for that vegetated gully finish).

I also had the pleasure of climbing Punch and Judy. I thought this climb was 100x better than Gelsa. What a great climb. The first pitch was thin on holds and gear (this is a 5.5?), the second pitch couldn't be more different. It was like a jungle gym. huge jugs, lots of overhangs and totally fun climbing. It looked so improbable from the ground. There are new rings/slings on the tree at the top of P2.
Posted by: Valpine

Re: Re-connecting with YYYY and finding other gems - 08/12/13 01:35 AM

I have to agree with you. YYYY is a great climb...I even love the wandery, grassy Yab pitch.

Punch and Judy...also great.
Posted by: kenr

Re: Re-connecting with YYYY and finding other gems - 08/12/13 09:12 PM

Originally Posted By: Gail
I also had the pleasure of climbing Punch and Judy. I thought this climb was 100x better than Gelsa.


Maybe it's time to climb Gelsa again?

Thanks for suggesting Punch & Judy.

Ken
Posted by: Gail

Re: Re-connecting with YYYY and finding other gems - 08/13/13 08:49 PM

Ken...funny you should say that. I did Gelsa on Sunday. My husband is just recovering from two years of wrist reconstruction. So we swung leads on some moderates. I lead p2/4 of YYYY and 1/2 of Gelsa (gave him the money pitch on Gelsa). Very nice, but, I think Punch and Judy is 100x better than Gelsa. I was grinning from ear to ear as I lead P2. I also did Akidilleativytoowouldn'tyou...Dick says it's G rated. I say "no way". The gear is at your feet on the reachy (for me) crux moves. Maybe I missed something. Anyway, if you don't feel like leading it you can set up a TR when you rap down P&J. Use the second tree over and you will be right on top of the climb.

We also did Cayote Crack (somewhat forgetable, would be a good first lead for someone...it eats gear, no route finding, a nice tree with rings [need to repace slings...choking the tree] and slings). We did Catch a Tiger, also forgettable and Left Meets Right also somewhat forgettable. Those are two very short climbs that are just ok.

Now I am going to do the 7 variation of YYYY.

Valpine...I agree wtih you, I really enjoyed that 5.0 pitch. It felt sort of alpiney I guess.
Posted by: LoganSchiff

Re: Re-connecting with YYYY and finding other gems - 08/14/13 04:14 PM

Gail:

Thanks for the info. Will definitely have to try Punch and Judy.

I recall last season linking up the first two pitches of Gelsa by going straight up the slab rather than traversing on the first pitch. Felt about 5.6 and was decent climbing, definitely better than doing the routes in 3 pitches. I think it might be possible to link up all three pitches, which would really improve the climb. Third pitch is great easy climbing IMO.
Posted by: Gail

Re: Re-connecting with YYYY and finding other gems - 08/15/13 03:43 AM

How is the gear if you go up and over on Gelsa? (rather than traverse)
Posted by: LoganSchiff

Re: Re-connecting with YYYY and finding other gems - 08/15/13 06:14 PM

I'd say PG. Not spectacular but definitely not terrible either, if memory serves. I vaguely recall a pink or red tricam being useful at some point...
Posted by: Daniel

Re: Re-connecting with YYYY and finding other gems - 08/15/13 08:15 PM

That's really not fair, since at the Gunks a pink tricam is almost always useful at some point. grin
Posted by: LoganSchiff

Re: Re-connecting with YYYY and finding other gems - 08/15/13 09:31 PM

Haha - fair enough. I should have been more clear. The tricam fit in a spot where a cam would not and there was no gear, at least for a few feet, again all based on my vague and very possibly faulty recollection. The pro is definitely passable.
Posted by: tallgirlnyc

Re: Re-connecting with YYYY and finding other gems - 09/05/13 03:12 PM

Down near the Williams Wall there are some fabulous and never done moderates.
I think Positively 4th Street is great...I don't know if the start is as overgrown as it was, but bushwack through it and you get some great challenging for the grade climbing.

Re: Punch and Judy. I would say P1 is well protected except for the scary, committing mantle move at the start. Agree on P2 is a wondrous jug haul to the top.

Keystone Kop and Fossil Fools are also great.

Just go over the Bayards Trail to get there. Or you know who might hit you with a trespassing sign.