#6 BD Camalot on Inverted Layback?

Posted by: winiecsm

#6 BD Camalot on Inverted Layback? - 09/09/13 08:36 PM

Will it protect the crux move, or is it too small?
Posted by: mummert

Re: #6 BD Camalot on Inverted Layback? - 09/09/13 08:56 PM


Gut says it's too small. Without a helmet, my head fits inside the crack....but that's all I know for comparison. I have a new #6, but not sure I ever carried it up there to try.

It will protect with small aliens (blue, black, blue/black) in the small horizontal crack inside.. I suspect other small gear works as well (new small tricams for example). The problem w/ the small gear is that you pretty much have to place by feel, plus vigorous pull-testing. Never fell there, but I suspect the couple of pieces placed were good.

--t
Posted by: winiecsm

Re: #6 BD Camalot on Inverted Layback? - 09/09/13 11:21 PM

Has anyone out there taken the fall on the blind blue/black alien placement?
Posted by: Lucander

Re: #6 BD Camalot on Inverted Layback? - 09/10/13 01:47 AM

Not yet - but there's sometimes a small fixed nut for security. I've nearly lost a couple there. Gotta love the Gunks: people ask about protecting with a #6 camalot and the best gear is tiny - this place is devious.
Posted by: rg@ofmc

Re: #6 BD Camalot on Inverted Layback? - 09/11/13 03:53 AM

BITD we used to place a short-thick horizontal piton in the interior horizontal crack. The crack formed by the flake was too big to fit the hammer in and get any swing, so the hammer had to be used sideways, and even so you couldn't get much swing.

The big crack is pretty wide. Tod mentioned getting his head in; I've seen a small woman jam both knees and get a hands-off rest right at the part most people think is hardest.

As I remember, you can get in more than one Alien side by side in that horizontal. Given that you can't really see how they are cammed, the more the better.
Posted by: gunkie

Re: #6 BD Camalot on Inverted Layback? - 09/12/13 11:47 PM

I've always just led the thing with that old pin in the corner backed up with a bomber large nut + two shoulder length slings girth hitched together. It's really just one move and once you do the move you'll wonder why you got all worked up over it. I know I do.... every time.

I have both of the biggest Big-Bros. I bet one of those would do the trick.