Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow

Posted by: SethG

Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow - 09/16/13 01:33 PM

It is well known that there is a sickle-shaped flake/block just sitting on a narrow shelf right above the crux of P2 of No Glow. It is mentioned in Dick's book. The flake/block has no visible means of attachment and always creeps me out.

I post here about a different block.

Just below the top of the cliff, literally two moves from the finish, you can go a little right or a little left. Going to the right is the easier, more obvious way. I did this yesterday and put my hand on a loose block. I did not even realize it was detached until I touched it. It is roughly Texas shaped, concave, and about three and a half feet wide. When I barely touched it, it shifted. It scared the crap out of me.

I suspect it would take no more than a little shove to send this thing down the cliff. Someone could get killed. I know trundling raises a host of issues and isn't generally done in the Gunks. (Is it forbidden by the Preserve?) Also in this specific case trundling the block from so high could have unintended consequences. The block might go far to the left or right and damage another route, or might even dislodge the sickle flake/block below. Obviously multiple people would have to be involved, at night, to make sure a wide area is clear before a controlled trundling could take place.

Despite these issues I think trundling might be in order here. I think it is only a matter of time before someone pulls this block off, and it could easily kill someone. It could happen today.

I don't mean to sound like chicken little. I know there are many loose blocks around. This one is a particular problem because of its location and because I think it could just slip off at any moment. It it just leaning against the wall.
Posted by: Doug

Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow - 09/16/13 01:43 PM

I climbed that Saturday and noticed that block. It encouraged me to climb left of it, which turned out to be easier than it looked at first. I didn't play with the block much to see how loose it was, but it did seem to be detached and just leaning against the rock.
Posted by: Glenn

Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow - 09/16/13 04:14 PM

I'm thinking that people have been successfully avoiding it for nearly 60 years. Haven't been on the route in almost three years, but I do recall that block and thinking the same thing.


Posted by: SethG

Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow - 09/16/13 05:46 PM

That is the block.

Yes of course it has always been there and no one has died yet. I would think the same thing except that I absent-mindedly touched it-- barely-- and it shifted. It is not attached at all. Maybe it will fall off in the next storm. Personally I think I'm done with No Glow for a while.
Posted by: Gail

Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow - 09/17/13 12:48 AM

great photo of "the block"
Posted by: oenophore

Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow - 09/17/13 09:29 AM

Maybe it will fall off in the next storm

And no one will be harmed then.
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow - 09/17/13 09:57 AM

Trundling is not allowed at the MP.
Posted by: talus

Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow - 09/17/13 11:02 AM

are you going to tell Hall monitor
Posted by: SethG

Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow - 09/17/13 07:06 PM

Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
Trundling is not allowed at the MP.



Then that settles it.

My comment about it coming off in a storm was hopeful. I pray it does.

Please carry on as before. Be careful out there.
Posted by: retroscree

Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow - 09/17/13 10:48 PM

Originally Posted By: SethG
Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
Trundling is not allowed at the MP.



Then that settles it.

My comment about it coming off in a storm was hopeful. I pray it does.

Intentional trundling is not allowed. "Accidentally" dislodging a rock, especially during a storm....
Posted by: Rickster

Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow - 09/17/13 11:11 PM

Some may remember the story of Pete Absolon's death in 2007 as told in Outside Mag. http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/rock-climbing/Dropped.html?page=1

Just short of the summit of a Wind River climb, he was killed instantly by a rock thrown from the summit, when someone up top couldn't imagine anyone was below them.

We'll all agree that the cliffs have gotten incredibly, even mid week and throughout the year, leave it the ranger staff to decide and if necessary when and how to trundle anything. As preserve employees, they have the authority, as well as the manpower to close off a section of the crag as well as the carriage roads as needed to insure it's done safely.
Posted by: retroscree

Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow - 09/17/13 11:29 PM

Originally Posted By: Rickster
Some may remember the story of Pete Absolon's death in 2007 as told in Outside Mag. http://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/rock-climbing/Dropped.html?page=1

Just short of the summit of a Wind River climb, he was killed instantly by a rock thrown from the summit, when someone up top couldn't imagine anyone was below them.

We'll all agree that the cliffs have gotten incredibly, even mid week and throughout the year, leave it the ranger staff to decide and if necessary when and how to trundle anything. As preserve employees, they have the authority, as well as the manpower to close off a section of the crag as well as the carriage roads as needed to insure it's done safely.

+1
I weren't serious.
Posted by: Kent

Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow - 09/17/13 11:35 PM

People run the carriage road in storms all the time.
Posted by: retroscree

Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow - 09/18/13 02:39 AM

Originally Posted By: Kent
People run the carriage road in storms all the time.

So what. They're just cluttering up the place.
Posted by: Ralph

Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow - 09/18/13 11:20 AM

There's a certain ranger and a physicist that have a habit of climbing in storms.
Safety first = Up on Up
We are talking about a mere pebble compared to the Rickstone.
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow - 05/04/14 11:52 PM

A very large (ca. 200 lb) rock was pulled off the top of No Glow this afternoon by a novice climber. I imagine it is the block discussed in this thread. It exploded at the GT Ledge and sent shrapnel from tiny to 50 lb pieces in a 100 foot spread. There were 4 of us at the base at the time. No one was seriously injured but one climbed needed on-site medical attention for a soft tissue leg injury and another climbed experienced a shoulder tweak as a result of the panicked evasive maneuvers. The big chunks that hit the ground would have killed anyone instantly had they been hit.
Posted by: SethG

Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow - 05/05/14 03:11 AM

Lordy, I'm so sorry you had to experience that. I'm very grateful no one was more seriously injured.
Posted by: Lucander

Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow - 05/05/14 12:16 PM

It's been years since I climbed No Glow - that perched flake kept me from wanting to do it again. Gonna get back on that one soon!
Posted by: curmudgeon

Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow - 05/05/14 01:30 PM

I wonder if it was the large block just above and right of climber in my photo?

Posted by: SethG

Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow - 05/05/14 01:54 PM

Mudge, you mean the sickle block that everyone yards on at the crux? If that is gone the climb will really be different. Plus the Texas death block will still be there waiting above..... I'll be interested to hear what others discover when they go up there.
Posted by: SethG

Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow - 06/30/14 02:18 PM

Someone on mountainproj is reporting that it appears the Texas death block is what fell off of No Glow. Just so you know.
Posted by: KathyS

Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow - 06/30/14 06:25 PM

I rapped off of No Glow a few weeks ago, and there was a dirty spot and no flake where Glenn\'s picture has the red circle (see page 1 of this thread). It was very close to the top.
Posted by: fotovult

Re: Loose Block Hazard on P2 of No Glow - 07/01/14 01:03 PM

Rapped yesterday and death flake above the roof is still there. Block that fell is approx 10\' below the top-out.