Bitchy Virgin question

Posted by: tradjunkie

Bitchy Virgin question - 10/22/13 01:06 PM

OK, so I have to ask...
I haven't climbed this thing in a few years but I walked under it the other day and this has been bugging me. When I did it a while back, I simply couldn't find any pro on the second pitch face (once you pass the roof on the right). I spent ages wandering left, right, up, down looking for something, trying to fiddle in micro-cams and micro-tricams and ultimately just kept going without placing anything. Usually I'm the guy who finds the #1 nut placement or the groove that is only as deep as the head of the blue Alien, but in this case I utterly failed.

To appease that nagging feeling, could someone please give me some detailed gear beta in case I ever climb it again? Where exactly did you get some gear in and what kind of gear was it?
Posted by: Glenn

Re: Bitchy Virgin question - 10/22/13 01:30 PM

Not sure if I've ever done this one BITD (probably did, but obviously it wasn't very memorable), but the comments on Mountain Project concur with you that it's R and runout. Seems the consensus is "look for bad tricam placements, and if you don't find any ... look some more".
Posted by: Glenn

Re: Bitchy Virgin question - 10/22/13 02:41 PM

I wanted to add that everyone's version of "R" is subjective (stating the obvious here). One person's teetering pink tricam at the very lip of a shallow flared horizontal might be bomber, while for someone else ... not so much. Depends on your own personal comfort level, climbing ability, etc. etc. I've run out sections of 5.6 - 5.9 climbing (usually after harder sections) 20 to 30 feet because I was in the zone, and other days I've been a basket case unless I had a bomber blue Camelot at my chest lol.
Posted by: retroscree

Re: Bitchy Virgin question - 10/22/13 03:12 PM

Your protection on that pitch is "don't fall". There really isn't anything all that trustworthy.
Posted by: tradjunkie

Re: Bitchy Virgin question - 10/22/13 04:15 PM

Well, if there was a teetering pink tricam placement, where was it? I looked. Pink, white, black, I didn't get one, teetering or not.

The Gray Dick is now calling it G-PG, I think, and obviously it's a little thin on pro, but I thought other climbers had managed to get something in somewhere. A single mediocre placement, maybe, but that's more than nothing. (And clearly, there are many others besides myself, such as retroscree, who just climbed it without finding any pro.)

If there's a lousy, wobbly pink tricam in a shallow crack on the right hand side of the natural diagonal line, 8-10' above the roofline, that would be the kind of info I'd love to know. If it's a flaring purple TCU placement with one cam barely touching, 10' off to the left, great. Just let me know. If it's a big secret and you want to PM me, fine.
Posted by: tradjunkie

Re: Bitchy Virgin question - 10/22/13 04:23 PM

Oh, I'm fine with "R", and I've run out harder climbs for longer distances, I'm just confused because I feel like I missed something, and that feels like a failure.
Posted by: Glenn

Re: Bitchy Virgin question - 10/22/13 05:53 PM

Originally Posted By: tradjunkie
Well, if there was a teetering pink tricam placement, where was it? I looked. Pink, white, black, I didn't get one, teetering or not.



I was speaking hypothetically here lol, and I really wish I had some specific gear beta for you, but I don't. I'm guessing the reason you couldn't find any is because there isn't any to find ... and no big secret or conspiracy going on. One commenter on MP mentioned being 15' over a white tricam, and a few others mentioned R conditions (over aid type pieces). I certainly wouldn't call it a failure on your part ... you did successfully climb it, didn't you? wink
Posted by: retroscree

Re: Bitchy Virgin question - 10/22/13 08:57 PM

Originally Posted By: tradjunkie
(And clearly, there are many others besides myself, such as retroscree, who just climbed it without finding any pro.)

I think I might have found a placement or two, but not necessarily protection, if you know what I mean. I kind of remember a small tri-cam, but felt it would fail in a fall. There might have been another tri-cam or small Alien placement later on , but a lot of the rock seemed hollow or questionable. I treated it as a 5.4 solo.
Posted by: tradjunkie

Re: Bitchy Virgin question - 10/22/13 09:05 PM

Yeah, retro, your experience sounds like mine. There was a spot to leave a pink tricam on climber's left in a flared, shallow horizontal, and it held 2 biners and a sling, but I'd be astonished if it held more than that. I also agree it felt more like 5.4 than 5.5 (or even the old grade of 5.6).
Posted by: retroscree

Re: Bitchy Virgin question - 10/23/13 02:32 PM

Originally Posted By: tradjunkie
I also agree it felt more like 5.4 than 5.5 (or even the old grade of 5.6).

The 5.6 move or two is on P1.
Posted by: Coppertone

Re: Bitchy Virgin question - 10/26/13 06:56 PM

Glenn you climbed that a number of times. It fun but a little runout. I remember a blue alien somewhere but its been a few years since the last run on it.
Posted by: tallgirlnyc

Re: Bitchy Virgin question - 10/26/13 09:19 PM

Yes P2 is pretty run out. There is a section 40 feet or so from the top that is particularly challenging as the moves are more 5.6 and the gear sucks. I have always placed my purple 01 metolious TCU in some little fissure but I would NEVER want to take a fall on it. Like people say, it will probably slow you down on the way down. :-)
That said, I think it's a wonderfully thoughtful face climb that helps climbers deal with run out!
Posted by: retroscree

Re: Bitchy Virgin question - 10/27/13 12:23 AM

Originally Posted By: tallgirlnyc
There is a section 40 feet or so from the top that is particularly challenging as the moves are more 5.6 and the gear sucks.

The moves are really only about 5.5, maybe even hard 5.4 but sure feel harder and more serious due to the risk of ground fall from the middle of the second pitch.
Posted by: SethG

Re: Bitchy Virgin question - 10/27/13 12:16 PM

You folks have piqued my curiosity. I've led p2 of Son of BV, thought the pro was fine. Especially if you look a little bit to the sides. I haven't done p2 of the original BV. I started it once but my partner felt like she was about to faint and I had to down climb back to her.