Crack climbing at the Gunks?

Posted by: slevin

Crack climbing at the Gunks? - 11/18/13 07:34 PM

Aside from Sonja and Supercrack, what are the proper crack (where one relies on jamming only) routes or boulder problems at the Gunks?
Posted by: Adrian

Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? - 11/18/13 08:27 PM

Does Golden Dream count?
Posted by: slevin

Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? - 11/18/13 09:03 PM

I have not done this one since I never get there early enough to get into Peterskill. It's a book of some sort, right?
Posted by: Dana

Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? - 11/18/13 09:33 PM

Harvest Moon
Posted by: Ralph

Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? - 11/18/13 09:49 PM

slevin,

Bottom of the page,at The Place That No One Talks About
Posted by: fotovult

Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? - 11/18/13 10:35 PM

LC crack to go along with Evelyn

Not on topic, but if you've never been up to Ragged Mountain there are some decent cracks there, and of course the daks have a multitude of splitters.
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? - 11/19/13 02:43 AM

Up in Arms at the left end of Near Trapps. A move or two on Eastertime Too. Ringwraith at Skytop. A few other short cracks at Lost City.

But one really can't develop jamming technique at the Gunks; it's just too easy to cheat.
Posted by: ianmanger

Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? - 11/19/13 12:46 PM

Just down from Black crack is a very large split boulder with a very long u shaped hand/offwidth crack through a cave. The entire thing is at least 40ft long and is entirely overhanging for 20+ ft of six inch ow with the occasional hand sized section. The inside of the crack is pebbly and painful. Anyone know what this is called and what it goes at, if at all?
Posted by: RangerRob

Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? - 11/19/13 02:20 PM

Resistance at Lost City as well. There is also that elusive route called Clasdestine Crack Climb, but the name will tell you that you will find it difficult to locate. In reality there are very few pure cracks in the Gunks, where jamming is the only technique that you can use. By few I mean...less than 5, and even those are short sections of routes.
Posted by: slevin

Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? - 11/19/13 02:20 PM

Originally Posted By: ianmanger
Just down from Black crack is a very large split boulder with a very long u shaped hand/offwidth crack through a cave. The entire thing is at least 40ft long and is entirely overhanging for 20+ ft of six inch ow with the occasional hand sized section. The inside of the crack is pebbly and painful. Anyone know what this is called and what it goes at, if at all?

Could you elaborate where it is? By Black crack, do you mean the Black Boulder crack or some other place? I have my high-top shoes and tape all ready to go!!!
Posted by: nonya

Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? - 11/19/13 02:21 PM

You need to jam through the crux of climb and punishment. I wouldn't call it "crack climb", but I'm not sure there is a way to cheat your way through it without jamming.
Posted by: ianmanger

Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? - 11/19/13 05:57 PM

About 30ft down the talus from the red wall chasm and towards Black crack if I'm remembering it correctly. There are two heavily chalked 'slopers on a face' problems on the outside walls (at the end towards Black crack) and an obvious cave with the crack in the ceiling. The crack extends up both outer faces of the cave. Tape won't cut it. I was thinking bubble wrap.



Originally Posted By: slevin
Originally Posted By: ianmanger
Just down from Black crack is a very large split boulder with a very long u shaped hand/offwidth crack through a cave. The entire thing is at least 40ft long and is entirely overhanging for 20+ ft of six inch ow with the occasional hand sized section. The inside of the crack is pebbly and painful. Anyone know what this is called and what it goes at, if at all?

Could you elaborate where it is? By Black crack, do you mean the Black Boulder crack or some other place? I have my high-top shoes and tape all ready to go!!!
Posted by: slevin

Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? - 11/19/13 06:48 PM

Originally Posted By: ianmanger
About 30ft down the talus from the red wall chasm and towards Black crack if I'm remembering it correctly. There are two heavily chalked 'slopers on a face' problems on the outside walls (at the end towards Black crack) and an obvious cave with the crack in the ceiling. The crack extends up both outer faces of the cave.

Now I feel like an idiot (which is not to say that I am not one already) smile I thought I know the Gunks fairly well and yet I have no idea of the place you are talking about. Just realized that I have heard of the black crack at LC... doh, that's what happends if you spend most of your time bouldering ... ok, i will check it out
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? - 11/19/13 10:20 PM

Originally Posted By: ianmanger
Just down from Black crack is a very large split boulder with a very long u shaped hand/offwidth crack through a cave. The entire thing is at least 40ft long and is entirely overhanging for 20+ ft of six inch ow with the occasional hand sized section. The inside of the crack is pebbly and painful. Anyone know what this is called and what it goes at, if at all?


It's literally under a boulder pile in front of the Texas Flake formation (this is at Lost City). I understand Rich Romano bouldered it many years ago. Photo:

Posted by: ianmanger

Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? - 11/20/13 01:02 AM

It goes, boys...

thanks Mike..

Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
Originally Posted By: ianmanger
Just down from Black crack is a very large split boulder with a very long u shaped hand/offwidth crack through a cave. The entire thing is at least 40ft long and is entirely overhanging for 20+ ft of six inch ow with the occasional hand sized section. The inside of the crack is pebbly and painful. Anyone know what this is called and what it goes at, if at all?


It's literally under a boulder pile in front of the Texas Flake formation (this is at Lost City). I understand Rich Romano bouldered it many years ago. Photo:

Posted by: GOclimb

Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? - 11/21/13 12:34 AM

Originally Posted By: slevin
Aside from Sonja and Supercrack, what are the proper crack (where one relies on jamming only) routes or boulder problems at the Gunks?


One that hasn't been mentioned is Low Exposure. Nice climb, a bit burly. Very short, obviously.

GO
Posted by: slevin

Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? - 11/21/13 12:51 AM

Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
It's literally under a boulder pile in front of the Texas Flake formation (this is at Lost City). I understand Rich Romano bouldered it many years ago.

Looks pretty awesome, though if that red thing in the photo is a full size haulbag, it's a bit too tall for a boulder problem. I will check it out this weekend.
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? - 11/21/13 01:37 AM

Originally Posted By: ianmanger
It goes, boys...


As in, you've done it? (Lynn Hill''s quote and meaning, originally)
Posted by: ianmanger

Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? - 11/21/13 02:55 AM

Ha. That should be 'it apparently goes, boys.' Was referring to the line about Romano. Any idea on the grade?


Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
Originally Posted By: ianmanger
It goes, boys...


As in, you've done it? (Lynn Hill''s quote and meaning, originally)
Posted by: slevin

Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? - 11/25/13 06:52 PM

So, beeing a proper idiot, I failed to find that crack past Saturday. Though bouldering at LC was way better then the Trapps, so was not bummed about it at all. Someone at the Brauhaus when asked about that crack said something like "really? it's so gnarly..." which made me want it even more!
Posted by: TARGHEE

Re: Crack climbing at the Gunks? - 11/26/13 07:10 PM

How about Last Frontier in the trapps...it's been a while but I seem to recall full on overhanging hand jamming and a heel hook finish to boot!