Bolts on Turdland?

Posted by: SethG

Bolts on Turdland? - 04/07/14 02:34 AM

I climbed Turdland today (the 5.9 way). Nice route! I wasn't sure how much faith to put in these bolts. I don't know much about evaluating bolts or hangers, but these seemed pretty ancient to me. Is my concern well-founded, or not? What say you?
Posted by: Lucander

Re: Bolts on Turdland? - 04/07/14 03:25 PM

Those bolts are terrible, it's why I only attempt that route when on "a game." Someday someone will replace them, and the route will lose a lot of its character...and be a lot more crowded.
Posted by: SethG

Re: Bolts on Turdland? - 04/07/14 04:18 PM

The route is still a pretty heads-up lead even if you assume the bolts will hold.
Posted by: Dana

Re: Bolts on Turdland? - 04/09/14 01:39 AM

The two nested pins are not great, and one moves with just a slight bit of hand pressure.

By the way, Dave, you should do Nurdland. Pretty exciting.
Posted by: Lucander

Re: Bolts on Turdland? - 04/09/14 03:27 PM

I'm set with that, Dana.
Welcome to My Nightmare is about all I want to handle.
Posted by: SethG

Re: Bolts on Turdland? - 04/09/14 09:44 PM

I don't remember any "nested" pins on Turdland. It could be that the pins have been replaced? Dick mentions "pins" at the first rooflet but I remember clipping just a single pin, no nest. There is a second angle pin off-line to the right which protects the lower direct variation (not the upper direct at the final roof, but the lower-down bulge). I did not use this angle pin. And then there is another pin before the last bolt but I had good gear nearby and I skipped it.
Posted by: Dana

Re: Bolts on Turdland? - 04/10/14 02:47 AM

The two pins - there is now just one it seems - were at the small overlap that is up and left from the first bolt.

Dave, I've done Welcome to My Nightmare and I thought that it was scarier than Nurdland. With modern gear Nurdland may not be R rated.
Posted by: Gail

Re: Bolts on Turdland? - 04/10/14 03:02 AM

I loved Turdland, thought it was a great climb. Much better than it's name suggests. That said, I did not lead Turdland.
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: Bolts on Turdland? - 05/01/14 12:18 AM

"Nested"...I don't think it means what you think it does.

I always clipped just the better of the two.