How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s?

Posted by: apsmith

How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? - 03/06/05 04:32 AM

Hi- This season i will be breaking into the .9s and easier .10s on lead.

I have been eyeing getting some micro-nuts. . . but i am also thinking that i might just be better off getting another green alien.

so my questions are-

1)how useful would micro-nuts be for leading .9s and easier 10s?

2) if they are useful then what would be the best to get for the gunks-
RPs?
HBs?
BD?
which sizes?

or what about a set of rock empire brassies for $30?
http://www.rockempire.com/catalog?category=cams#nuts

thanks

aaron

Posted by: Arms

Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? - 03/06/05 02:51 PM

I like HB Offsets. I only carry sizes smaller than my regular nuts.

You don't often need them but they're great when you do.

Also, they weigh practically nothing.
Posted by: dalguard

Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? - 03/06/05 03:19 PM

Those look like the Trango brassies which, let me tell you, aren't micro-nuts. Just cause they're brass . . . I got the Trango brassies off the net without seeing them in real life and was very disappointed. They're the size of regular nuts, only awkwardly shaped and the nuts slide down the cables and stick so you have to fiddle them back into place when you want to place them. These are definitely not the same thing as the little HBs, for instance.

Whether you need micro-nuts or not, I don't know. Depends whether you trust them when you place them, I guess. Although they weigh practically nothing, there's not much point in carrying them if you don't trust them. Some of the larger sizes are just a different shape of a reasonably sized nut but the tiny, tiny ones are only psuedo-gear.
Posted by: rg@ofmc

Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? - 03/06/05 06:58 PM

As Arms says, you don't use 'em all the time, but they are definitely worth having along. I find I place them pretty regularly from 5.8 up, and in spots you wouldn't be able to place a micro cam. The best strategy is to use them for overhead protection with double ropes so that you don't pay any penalty if the high tiny pro pulls. Screamers are probably a good idea.
Posted by: paborden

Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? - 03/06/05 08:40 PM

I use mine all the time and carry a mixture of HB offsets and RPs. I have the BD ones as well, but find I don't use them nearly as much in the Gunks. Whatever you decide, they'll take a little getting used to -- but once you get the hang of them, you will place them plenty.

Rock and Snow allows you to mix and match any brands to make a set and still gives you the batch discount. Its a killer deal and how I bought mine.
Posted by: Arms

Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? - 03/06/05 09:37 PM

". . . there's not much point in carrying them if you don't trust them"

Wether or not you trust a piece matters little if it's all you get. Lets face it, you don't place those little guys if there is something beefier nearby.

An exception would be as a directional--a common use for micros.
Posted by: rg@ofmc

Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? - 03/06/05 11:07 PM

When it comes to trust, I've always thought that micro cams are no more reliable than micro nuts, but I use both. To make Arms' point in a different way, the idea is to try to raise the probability that something will stop a fall.

In Gunks horizontal placements, if you can get in one micronut, you can often get in several and clip 'em all together. If you can place two and run each strand of a double through each, then each one only has to hold half the fall impact.
Posted by: Coppertone

Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? - 03/06/05 11:12 PM

I generally always carry my HB offsets unless I am climbing something that I know and I don't need the gear. There are many 5.9' snd 5.10's at the gunks where the micros will come in handy. I use my HB's on Gunks routes such as Wasp, The Spring, Grand Central, Wegetables, Three Doves, Comando Rave, Never Neverland, Proctoscope, just to name a few routes in the range that you were asking about. You can keep 6 or 7 of these nuts on a biner and they weigh nothing, If you don't need them so what if you do need them you will be very happy to have them as they generally will fit where nothing else will.
Posted by: apsmith

Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? - 03/07/05 12:10 AM

thanks all for the information
it sounds like they would be useful for routes that are in my range

the rock and snow deal sounds great

and it confirms what i was thinking---more gear is always good

cheers

aaron
Posted by: Arms

Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? - 03/07/05 01:59 AM

I'm not Catholic but I often cross myself when placing micros; it might not help but what can it hurt.

Anyone recall stainless glue?

Dizz?
Posted by: paborden

Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? - 03/07/05 02:13 AM

I second what RG said about RP 'nests' -- when it comes to micros, more is better.

Also, when I bought my set I picked up a screamer to go with them. People will debate me on this point, but when I clip micros or pins its usually with a screamer.
Posted by: Arms

Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? - 03/07/05 01:35 PM

What harm could a screamer do?
Posted by: nerdom

Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? - 03/07/05 02:56 PM

my buddy unzipped several strands of a Screamer on the super-manky, upward-driven pin at the crux of On Any Monday. It was an onsight attempt, so you can bet he was glad to have it!
Posted by: MarcC

Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? - 03/07/05 03:23 PM

Quote:

my buddy unzipped several strands of a Screamer on the super-manky, upward-driven pin at the crux of On Any Monday.



I'm not sure which I find more surprising - that the pin is still there or that it actually held a fall (even with the screamer).
Posted by: Coppertone

Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? - 03/07/05 05:01 PM

Quote:

Quote:

my buddy unzipped several strands of a Screamer on the super-manky, upward-driven pin at the crux of On Any Monday.



I'm not sure which I find more surprising - that the pin is still there or that it actually held a fall (even with the screamer).



That pin can be backed up with a bomber nut right next to it. Its a good stance there too as long as you can deal with that large pebble under your foot.
Posted by: talus

Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? - 03/07/05 06:23 PM

Quote:

I second what RG said about RP 'nests' -- when it comes to micros, more is better.

Also, when I bought my set I picked up a screamer to go with them. People will debate me on this point, but when I clip micros or pins its usually with a screamer.




peter stop being a wuss or you can't climb with the demolition team this year
Posted by: quanto_the_mad

Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? - 03/07/05 06:37 PM

Micro nuts are fine, but you can never have enough green aliens!
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? - 03/07/05 07:21 PM

As for brands, I've got the BD Micros, and I like them. But take this with a grain of salt, as I use them more on NH granite than I do on the Gunks.

Actually, my opinion is probably pretty worthless, since in addition to using them for NH granite more often than Gunks conglomerate, I also:
- Am only just breaking into Gunks 9s and 10s myself, and
- Only get to the Gunks maybe a half a dozen times a season.

So there's my $0.0002. Take it (or leave it) with a few grains of salt.

GO
Posted by: MurphysLaw

Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? - 03/07/05 08:16 PM

HB offsets. They rule at the Gunks.

#5 is my personal wubbie. I have placed it so many times where other gear wouldn't go, I've lost track.
There are pitches where I've placed both #5's, and several of the other sizes too.
( I have doubles from 3-6, but this is admittedly overkill)
The #5 is to offsets, what the green is to Aliens.

Sizes #3-#6 are the 'real' gear, they are very strong and can hold a decent fall.

The smaller ones are good for oppositional pieces, or as headpieces maybe. (or for aid, if yer into that sorta thing)

You'd be surprised how often you can find a home for one on an 8 or 7 too; but for 9's and easier 10's (which is exactly where I'm at, or was at when I left off last yr) they are damn near indispensable IMHO.

Pick up #6, 5, 4, and 3 and a biner to rack 'em. You'll be glad ya did.

And don't bother with another green Alien, get a green/ yellow offset instead.
mmmmMMMMmmmmmm Alien offsets, mmmMMMMmmmmm

PS - edited to add: 2nd or 3rd of 4th the idea that a screamer ain't a bad idea either.... 'specialy on the smaller guys.
See attached for kN ratings:

no dims wt strength color price
inches gm kN lbf
0 .15 x .22 4 2.5 562 black $13.95
1 .15 x .31 4 4.5 1012 burgandy 13.95
2 .17 x .24 8 6 1350 red 13.95
3 .24 x .31 9 6 1350 orange 13.95
4 .28 x .37 13 8 1800 yellow 14.95
5 .31 x .43 16 7 1575 green 14.95
6 .38 x .51 24 10 2250 blue 14.95

Posted by: andrew

Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? - 03/08/05 04:16 AM

if you travel you'll really like the micronuts as well. many 9s and 10s in places like little cottonwood or eldorado canyon pretty much require them.
Posted by: dalguard

Re: How useful are Micro-nuts for leading 5.9s and easier .10s? - 03/08/05 04:21 PM

If the green/yellow offset is a choice, I'm voting for that one. More useful than either a second green Alien or a set of micro-nuts IMO.
Posted by: crackers

Re: Extremely useful. - 03/08/05 05:05 PM

what murphy said, but with one caveat:

HB BRONZE offsets. They make bronze and alloy offsets, and he (and evrybody else) are talking about the BRONZE ones.

I would rather have my trusty HB Bronze set than just one cam.

Posted by: qtzmznt

Re: Extremely useful. - 03/28/05 05:26 PM

Ditto on the green/yellow Alien. I place it as much as any other alien in the Gunks.

For small nuts, I LOVE the DMM peenuts. Rich Gottleib sold me on them and I use them all the time. Still haven't fallen on one, but their skinnier wire helps them fit into placements where a thicker wire would be excluded.

An example of loving them (gear beta alert!): I led the Winter for the first time this weekend and at the stemming crux got a perfect #6 or 7 bd stopper overhead but was able to back it up with an equalized peenut and #3 stopper underneath. Having the peenut in definitely helped me focus on the moves.
Posted by: quanto_the_mad

HB Bronze Offsets - 10/20/05 08:29 AM

It's been a few months, and I've been debating whether to get some HB Offsets. Since I had some free time today, I began looking online for them, and it turns out HB has gone out of business.

Guess I should have gotten them right after the discussion. Oh well.
Posted by: tokyo bill

Re: HB Bronze Offsets - 10/20/05 09:27 AM

QtM:

I think someone else may have already noted this, but just in case:

Word is that another gear maker (DMM, I believe) bought the molds - or whatever they're called - and will be turning out the same product in not too long.

Remains to be seen what will actually happen, but apparently there's hope.

I LOVE my aluminum offsets, and occasionally place a bronze as well (usually just before soiling my shorts...)

Posted by: greyalien

Re: HB Bronze Offsets - 10/20/05 11:20 AM

Quote:

QtM:

I think someone else may have already noted this, but just in case:

Word is that another gear maker (DMM, I believe) bought the molds - or whatever they're called - and will be turning out the same product in not too long.

Remains to be seen what will actually happen, but apparently there's hope.

I LOVE my aluminum offsets, and occasionally place a bronze as well (usually just before soiling my shorts...)






Yes, apparently DMM will start making the bronze offsets againt. However, theyve said that they probably wont continue with all the larger aluminum ones I really liked them for pin scars and funky irregular cracks.
Posted by: quanto_the_mad

Re: HB Bronze Offsets - 10/27/05 06:18 AM

Cool. I found the thread at r.c that said 4 weeks, which I think has come and gone but guess I can wait.