trango big bro

Posted by: J@son

trango big bro - 09/15/09 12:06 AM


Does anyone use the Trango Big Bros? If not, what do you use to protect large vertical off widths?
http://www.trango.com/prod.php?id=34
Posted by: Julie

Re: trango big bro - 09/15/09 12:37 AM

I use my partner, frankly.

But my offwidth-loving partner uses his Friends in the larger sizes.

I don't know what his friends use.
Posted by: RobA

Re: trango big bro - 09/15/09 04:01 PM

i love my big bro.

i have a #1 and have used it a fair amount here in the east, on OW's and non OW's.

since i bought it this spring, I've used it one every climb i've done at the Delaware Water Gap (about 6) and i've used them on occasion in the gunks and adirondacks. a friend of mine just bought 1-3 because he moved out west, but before he left, he found a climb at the trapps where he got to use all 3.

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-...0_4128029_n.jpg

i have used big cams and big bros and i like my bros better. I've had some people tell me that the Bros are useless out here on the right coast because very few of our cracks are splitters, but just like with any other piece, if you are on the look out for placements, you'll find them and with only a little playing around, big bros can be bomber in even the most pebbly gunks OW.

plus it gives my female partners great lines through out the day, "is that a big bro in your pocket, or are you just happy so see me!"
Posted by: ianmanger

Re: trango big bro - 09/15/09 04:15 PM

Originally Posted By: RobA
but before he left, he found a climb at the trapps where he got to use all 3.



ROFL. Brilliant.

File under "when you need 'em, you need 'em." Personally I have little interest in the suffering required when such things are really (emphasis) necessary. Few do, though I do note that the $169 Sportiva TC has a hightop to reduce ankle damage in those wide cracks, something you don't see so much of these days. yeah, $169.. could be a game changer. Total comfort in those strenuous moments.
Posted by: andrew

Re: trango big bro - 09/15/09 04:18 PM

I think they are junk. They can be bomber if you have a good stance and a lot of time to fiddle them, but you can't slide them moveable toprope style which makes them nearly useless to me.

The big camalots and big friends complement each other - the wideness of the friends makes them more stable in some places and worthless in others. I loved my old yates big dudes before some asshole stole them out of my car.

When the going gets truly wide, Vally Giants are great if you can get your hands on them. I have the 9" and the 12". A 5.13 offwidth climber friend of mine used to mock me relentlessly for having them until he found a new route where he needed them. I absolutely had to have them for this beauty out in the desert too:

Posted by: chip

Re: trango big bro - 09/15/09 08:14 PM

I've drooled all over them in the store but could never find an actual climb that I WANTED to do that needed them. Maybe Tunnel Vision in Red Rocks?

Nice shot and climb, Andrew.
Posted by: kevin boyle

Re: trango big bro - 09/16/09 11:14 AM

I still have Eddie's big dudes.
Posted by: chip

Re: trango big bro - 09/16/09 01:33 PM

Originally Posted By: kevin boyle
I still have Eddie's big dudes.


That sounds a bit personal.
Posted by: Chas

Re: trango big bro - 09/16/09 03:01 PM

I use the Big Bro's and use them in spots where I hanging around a while sucks (since I don't have Valley of the Giant cams (Andrew do you and your "friends" want to come out here, a frriend just put up a nice overhanging OW).

I mainly use them on stuff where the OW is really long or harder. Most people I know (along with myself)just run it out if the OW section is less then 30ft long and less then hard 5.10/5.11a (but the grade is subjective depending on how comfortable you are on OW and where the fall would put you although on this one the first 20-25ft is .10a and you can sling the stuck rocks most of us just forget about it and just go for it http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/335297.JPG.
Posted by: ianmanger

Re: trango big bro - 09/16/09 04:50 PM

Originally Posted By: Chas
although on this one the first 20-25ft is .10a and you can sling the stuck rocks most of us just forget about it and just go for it http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/335297.JPG.


Taped hands and a wife/boybeater shirt..excellent choice of attire in the wide. Just a flesh wound etc.
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: trango big bro - 09/18/09 04:43 PM

Originally Posted By: chip
I've drooled all over them in the store but could never find an actual climb that I WANTED to do that needed them. Maybe Tunnel Vision in Red Rocks?


Tunnel Vision emphatically does not require any big gear. There is one true offwidth section, but it can be protected adequatel by a couple of standard cams. When you're in the true "tunnel" part, you'd need a 5 foot piece to protect yourself. But protection isn't required, as the climbing is very easy (but fun!)

Quote:
Nice shot and climb, Andrew.


Indeed! That reminds me, when we going to get back to the San Rafael Swell, my friend? We've got a lot of sweet stuff to do there!

GO
Posted by: Frank Florence

Re: trango big bro - 09/18/09 06:52 PM

Quote:
When you're in the true "tunnel" part, you'd need a 5 foot piece to protect yourself.

Or you can look for the pocket on the right wall that takes a small tri-cam.

And that gets to a the point worth considering. In areas where the rock tends to have complex features, there are often opportunities even in wide cracks or chimneys to find small gear placements. When the rock tends to split cleanly, big gear has its place. In those cases I prefer cams, even if they are a hassle to haul up.
Posted by: andrew

Re: trango big bro - 09/21/09 07:37 PM

Originally Posted By: GOclimb
Indeed! That reminds me, when we going to get back to the San Rafael Swell, my friend? We've got a lot of sweet stuff to do there!

GO


Soon! I'm just about done painting my god damn house, at which point i'll be good to go.
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: trango big bro - 09/22/09 04:11 PM

Originally Posted By: Frank Florence
In areas where the rock tends to have complex features, there are often opportunities even in wide cracks or chimneys to find small gear placements.


That's an excellent point. Sometimes the best gear for wide cracks is small to micro gear. That and a willingness to run it out.

GO
Posted by: rackrat

Re: trango big bro - 01/08/11 06:36 PM

I have found good use for them in the Valley, at the Chief (BC), Red Rocks, Josh, Tahquitz, and Cathedral/Whitehorse. They are not my favorite pieces, but do very well at the edge of OW roofs... as they give the rope a smoothe rounded corner to pass over. It's a specialist piece of gear, best IMHO for granite OW cracks.
Posted by: chip

Re: trango big bro - 01/10/11 03:13 PM

I keep meaning to pick one up for using on Tunnel Vision in Red rocks, but have so far passed on the route instead. Played around with one in the Valley and seems very impressive.
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: trango big bro - 01/12/11 09:50 PM

Originally Posted By: chip
I keep meaning to pick one up for using on Tunnel Vision in Red rocks, but have so far passed on the route instead. Played around with one in the Valley and seems very impressive.


Where on Tunnel Vision would you want one?

GO
Posted by: chip

Re: trango big bro - 01/13/11 02:55 PM

Going by word of mouth and a guide I read, folk enjoy having it along for the tunnel section. If you have a different take on it I am all ears.
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: trango big bro - 01/13/11 07:00 PM

Hmmm.... If that's your concern, then you should go do the route post-haste.

The tunnel section is very very easy, with some protection available in both sides. Also, for 99% of it (if memory serves) the only protection that would span the tunnel would be a five foot wide big bro if such a thing existed.

But perhaps you misunderstood? There is a half a pitch of offwidth which, if you are not familiar with offwidth climbing, you could easily want to sew up. It's not insanely hard, and there are some face holds, but a section of it would be fairly serious without some kind of big gear if you are not somewhat comfortable with the style of climbing.

GO
Posted by: chip

Re: trango big bro - 01/13/11 09:05 PM

u might be right and maybe it is for an off-widthy portion. I've never loved the off width stuff but find it usually goes OK with significant amounts of thrashing and blood letting. If you have a guess as to what size it might take, it might be a good excuse to finally break down and get one.
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: trango big bro - 01/14/11 08:11 PM

Hi Chip,

Sorry, I don't recall exactly how wide it is, but I know it was OW for me and squeeze chimney for my gf at the time (she could get one shoulder in to rest).

GO
Posted by: chip

Re: trango big bro - 01/14/11 09:10 PM

Thanks