easy RED ROCK trad routes

Posted by: Anonymous

easy RED ROCK trad routes - 02/04/00 01:11 PM

Would love some suggestions on trad routes at Red Rocks in the 5.5 - 5.8 level. Especially ones that are in the sun. Any other updated beta would be appreciated.

Posted by: Anonymous

Re: easy RED ROCK trad routes - 02/04/00 04:01 PM

We were out there last spring and did Cat in the Hat 5.6 and
Dark Shadows 5.8(a little cold at the top, try to climb it early in the day to get the most sun), both are really fun but see a lot of activity, it actually took us much longer to rap off Cat in the Hat than to climb it because there were so
many parties under us. Chrimson Chrysalis is supposed to be a great 5.8 also, but we didn't do it because there were too
many other people on it and it's a fairly long approach. Good Luck

Posted by: John Peterson

Re: easy RED ROCK trad routes - 02/04/00 04:28 PM

I've got a bunch of Red Rocks beta at http://haskell.org/jcp/rocks.html

There are a lot of routes to choose from - it will depend on how crowded things are.
Routes like SOlar Slab are great but can get a bit crowded. If you are
willing to hike a bit you can have a climb all to yourself.


Posted by: Anonymous

Re: easy RED ROCK trad routes - 02/04/00 10:22 PM

Olive Oyl (5.7), Frogland (5.8), Beulah's Book (5.9-) to Solar Slab (5.6), Dark Shadows (5.8-), Cat in the Hat (5.6+)
If you want specific beta or need a partner, email me.

Posted by: Lisa

Re: easy RED ROCK trad routes - 02/07/00 01:18 PM

Physical Graffitti, Chips and Salsa, Tuna Cookies, and Remote Control are some others--I was there in late Nov. and most of these were in the sun (or at least I only needed a long sleeve shirt). I found that the ratings out there are easier than the Gunks--so if you are used to leading in the 5.6-5.8 range in the Gunks, you may find that you can do 5.9 or 10 fairly comfortably out there. Also, at the campsite every Sat. morning, they have coffee (Starbucks :)) with the Climbing Ranger--you can get a ton of beta there from the ranger and meet other climbers.


Posted by: Anonymous

Re: easy RED ROCK trad routes - 02/07/00 02:03 PM

Got to give my hat a tip to Cat in the Hat... I actually led a route that scared Katie Brown!! Okay... it was her first gear lead, but still. It really is a great climb, careful with your ropes on first and second rapell. Make sure your knot is not to close to the anchors or you will never get it over the end. Solar Slab Gully, followed by Solar Slab is great!!! Either start early, or get a permit to bivy on that HUGE (football field sized) ledge atop the gully. Five pitches of 5.3 or less takes you to a huge ledge below a 9 pitch 5.6. Wow!
I tried Tunnel Vision 5.7, a little strange but still worth it.
Frogland at 5.8- was a lot of fun with a few heartbeating moves.
Being a Gunks climber, and not used to smoothsided vertical cracks, Ragged Edges 5.8 was one of the funnest and hardest climbs I can remember doing.
For a rest day, check out the Black Corridor. Short walk, cool ass formation, and easy sport climbs. Easy meaning I led clip up 5.10s and I can't top rope most 5.10s in the Gunks. Ratings, go figure.

Posted by: Anonymous

Re: easy RED ROCK trad routes - 02/07/00 02:20 PM

Would have to dissagree with you on ratings.
I was out there last year(spring) and did Long routes Levitetion29,Epinephrine, and others and found the ratings
pretty dead on in comparison w/Gunks. Don't know the routes you speak of (so I wont comment on them) But
I would not consider recomending say someone who just sent high E or Madame Gs to go do Epinepphrine(full on 5.9 in my oppinion) My guess is that the average 5.6 -5.8 Gunks climber has probaly done little to no true crack climbing, and will find routes that are crack routes a little tricky. (Of course there are exceptions to this Generalization) My point is
just be carefull of the type of route you decide to push youre limits on. Peace

Posted by: Lisa

Re: easy RED ROCK trad routes - 02/07/00 04:29 PM

DangerBoy, I hope you're right, because then the fact that those grades seem much easier to me might mean I'm actually improving!! I do agree that the few crack climbs I did (Straight Shooter (5.9) and Out of Control (5.10)) did seem to be fairly rated (in my extremely limited-I don't-know-what-I'm-talking-about-experience), because they were &^%*& hard for me, and I have the scars to prove it.



Posted by: Anonymous

Re: easy RED ROCK trad routes - 02/08/00 02:36 PM

The new guidebook to Red Rocks should be out in mid-March. It will contain over 1100 routes.

Another moderate route similar to Cat in the Hat that will be included in this edition is Geronimo in Juniper Canyon. It's a sunny 4 pitch 5.7 with a rappel descent. It should become very popular once the description is readily available. Another new sunny place to go is the Moderate Mecca. It's at the southwest end of Calico Basin (toward the First Pullout) and has dozens of routes from 5.3 to 5.10+. All are less than a rope length and most have some sort of rappel anchor nearby.

The only legal place to camp that's close is 13 mile campground which costs $10/night. See www.redrockresole.com and the Las Vegas Climber's Liason Committee (CLC) web page.

Posted by: Anonymous

Re: easy RED ROCK trad routes - 02/08/00 04:40 PM

Is that the new Swain guide, or the re-printing of the Urioste guide you are referring to? The RedRockResole site said there is a new Urioste guide (ot at least a re-printing) coming out. I would love to get my hands on it, as I am not a big fan of the Swain guide.

Posted by: Anonymous

Re: easy RED ROCK trad routes - 02/08/00 07:44 PM

When I was out there last spring Desert rock sport had the reprint of Uriosite book.

Posted by: Kevin

Re: easy RED ROCK trad routes - 02/09/00 04:32 PM

Ian, Unless Joanne has put a new one out, it is the reprinted guide book. I picked one
up last year when I was out there. If you are in the NP area, contact me, I may be able
to meet you at Bacchaus if you want to look through it before ordering one. The viewing fee
will be pint or two. Send me an email.


Posted by: Anonymous

Re: easy RED ROCK trad routes - 02/09/00 07:06 PM

The pint'd be on me anyway. I don't know if I'll be up there anytime soon, but I'm going to get the new guide w/o seeing it. I've seen the battered copy they have at Desert Rock Sports, definitely worth getting. And the Swain guide just doesn't do justice to some of the climbing at Red Rocks.

Posted by: Anonymous

Re: easy RED ROCK trad routes - 02/09/00 07:39 PM

Just got back from 7 great days of climbing at Red Rocks, warm in the sun, and though it was a little cool in the shade it was fine if you wore a fleece and carried gloves for early morning shady belays. We thought the weather was actually great (expecially for the longer hikes in) and kept the crowds away.

We did several moderate trad climbs - Tunnel vision (5.6), which was fun, though the tunnel pitch is a bit weird and hard to protect. Crimson Chrysalis (5.8) was a terrific climb, 9 pitches and the top pitches are the best, so make sure you get there early (fairly steep approach hike). Dark Shadows was very enjoyable too. After doing all of these shady climbs and desperate for a day in the sun we did Beulah's Book, a great 5.9- with a really interesting bombay chimney move as the crux. Not as hard as it looks but spooky. We could have continued on Solar Slab but several parties ahead of us (who had ascended other routes on the lower section) convinced us we didn't have time.

If you want to do the longer routes, get an early entry/late departure pass (free) from the rangers at the BLM visitor center. They give you the pass code for the gates so you can come in as early as 5am to start your approach and leave as late as 8pm without the $50 ticket.

We found that if we hit the gates right as 7 when they opened we were the first climbers out. . .not too many early risers, even on the weekend. The pullouts got crowded by around 10 on the weekends, though.

Make sure to go have beers at Bonnie Springs resort around the open fire while you are out there. . . (it's just past the old Oak Creek Campground off 159).

Have a great time. I wish I were still there!