Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour

Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/10/02 06:41 PM

Since this is Other Areas ... and since I only have a limited number of Gunks pics to keep browndog happy ...

Planet of the Apes 5.11a

Planet of the Apes Wall Malibu Creek State Park, CA

(And yes, they shot scenes for Planet of the Apes there. The original movie.)

Posted by: d-elvis

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/10/02 07:02 PM

Wash all the chalk off the rock and try it again!

Looks like connect the dots!
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/10/02 07:32 PM

Oooh oooh oooh, can I play too?
col du plan along the Midi-Plan Traverse. PD-, Chamonix, France.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/10/02 08:10 PM

Sweet.

But where's the rap station?
Posted by: browndog2

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/10/02 08:35 PM

That's gotta be a record or something. Lester posts at 2:41pm, and by 4:20 the thread has an even hundred views. Admittedly, the Strat froggy picture will get its share of drool.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/11/02 06:06 PM

Non Gunks photo du jour

The Flake 5.7 Otter Cliffs Mt. Desert Island
Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/11/02 06:07 PM

do you make sure all the subjects hair are all over the place is it a natural phenomenom
Posted by: MurphysLaw

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/11/02 06:16 PM

CB only asks this as he is a conniesseur (sp?) of Crazy Hair.
(just be thankful they weren't wearing Day-Glo multi-colored tights )

Nice pic - hope to climb that next month!
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/11/02 06:30 PM

CB .... all the models in my photos have their own personal hair stylist. I am not responsible.
Posted by: pedestrian

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/11/02 06:33 PM

"Baby, [pronounced buh-buh] I just LOVE what you done with your hair!"

--emil beaulieu
Posted by: d-elvis

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/11/02 07:57 PM

Murphy - neither CB or myself recall being invited to Acadia
Posted by: MurphysLaw

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/11/02 08:11 PM

I'm going there with my other woman. Sorry.
(no, not strat )

Ya wanna dog-sit Murphy the Wonder-Dog while we're away?
Posted by: pedestrian

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/11/02 08:32 PM

"my other woman"

Does she say "baaaaaaah" a lot?
Posted by: MurphysLaw

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/12/02 03:14 PM

"Does she say "baaaaaaah" a lot?"


You must be thinking of Jeff H. or Rawl5 - that's not my bag, baby.
(not that there's anything wrong with that - I fully support their God-given right to ovine lovin' )
Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/12/02 03:34 PM

though not the official quizzor of photo's

maybe this will appease you til Lester comes along
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/12/02 03:42 PM

Very pretty! Is that Squamish?

Here's one: Otter Cliffs, Acadia Nat'l Park.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/12/02 03:50 PM

Funny, the woman next to the belayer looks like Wile E. Coyote after hitting a wall.
Posted by: MurphysLaw

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/12/02 04:04 PM

"Funny, the woman next to the belayer looks like Wile E. Coyote after hitting a wall"


In the next picture, you see her hitting the ground with a 'POOF'. That's what you get for using ACME climbing gear.

(just kidding, of course. ) GREAT PIC - thx!

Yee-ha! I'll be there in one month from today!
Posted by: Chas

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/12/02 04:28 PM

Could be the Apron at Squamish, or is it the Great Arch in North Carolina
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/12/02 04:45 PM

Cool photos. I like the trend we've started.

Here's my non-Gunks photo du jour. "Feel the moment!"

No guessing needed here. Figures on a Landscape - JTree
Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/12/02 06:05 PM

Does this help dcide Chas? same climb
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/13/02 05:28 PM

My last day for photos for a bit ...

Another three-for of non-Gunks pics ...

First up ... The Wart, JTree
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/13/02 05:30 PM

Second ...

How about that NYC bouldering?

Komba on Private Angel, Cat Rock V6?
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/13/02 05:31 PM

And last ...

Segments in Space 5.11c Keller Peak, CA
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/14/02 05:55 PM

Last pitch of Baxter's Pinnacle in the Tetons.
Posted by: hartmann

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/15/02 06:21 PM

Here is my contribution. This was taken about 50 m from the summit of the Jungfrau, Switzerland, back in April.
Paul
Posted by: Jim Lawyer

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/16/02 02:52 AM

If ya'll are looking for photos of other areas, check out the photo collection on rockclimbing.com. It would be kinda cool to have a collection of Gunks photos on this site. (Maybe that's being worked on??)
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/17/02 01:20 PM

Today's contribution:
None other than Mike Rawdon demonstrating what the word "smearing" means on the hard start to his three pitch 5.9 on Sugarloaf known as It Ain't Over.
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/17/02 05:08 PM

'Pedestrian' on some unknown Adirondack slab.
Posted by: browndog2

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/17/02 05:51 PM

Looks like you were using that robust 2 foot high bush for pro. That sure would have held. Bold one, Mike.
Posted by: andrew

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/19/02 03:05 AM

here is what i did last weekend. its a tower called dreamspeaker in texas canyon three hors southwest of moab. two pitches of 5.11 crack climbing. needless to say i followed and hung.

Posted by: andrew

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/19/02 03:08 AM

me soloing an easy route in the flatirons. slabmongering at its finest.
Posted by: tokyo bill

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/19/02 03:18 AM

Andrew - nice pics! More please!
Posted by: andrew

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/19/02 03:50 AM

marmot on mt shavano in colorado
Posted by: andrew

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/19/02 03:55 AM

penis dimension 5.10c at vedauwoo.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/19/02 12:31 PM

Andrew i know that climb. it's great! so is climb & punishment to the left 5.9 right. i never did the one on the right what is it called? somewhere around 5.11.
excellent photos!
Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/19/02 01:21 PM

Andrew is the climb the small tower or one of the larger ones on the left?

awesome pics.
Posted by: andrew

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/19/02 02:33 PM

its the skinny tower on the right. definitely one of the best summits i've ever been on.
Posted by: andrew

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/19/02 02:35 PM

the one on the right is called hung like a horse, and is amazing sustained thin hands. i think the pod move on penis dimension is harder than anything on hung like a horse.

climb and punishment is great, but that start is full on for the first 8 feet. gotta love vedauwoo - any climbing in the first 10 feet is ignored for the purposes of the rating.
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/24/02 05:19 PM

The horizon splits the sun in half as seen from Gilman's Point on Kilimanjaro. The prominent peak in the center of the photo is Mawenzi.
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/24/02 05:24 PM

A look at Mawenzi in the day time from just above the Kibo camp (~15,000 ft)
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/24/02 05:25 PM

Last one, no mountains, just proud of this photo of the wildebeest and zebra migration in Serengeti
Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/24/02 05:28 PM

thats an awesome shot strat. were they running towards you until they caught a whiff , then they turned and ran the other way?
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/24/02 06:50 PM

Here's the first in a series from J-Tree. If you've been to J-tree before, this should bring back memories. If not, hopefully it will give you a little taste...
Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/24/02 07:04 PM

is that the Blob?
definitely in the HIdden valley
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/24/02 07:23 PM

Terrific shot, Strat!!!
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/24/02 07:24 PM

ski tracks

GO
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/24/02 07:27 PM

If I'm correct, that's the formation with Left and Right Ski Track.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/24/02 07:29 PM

Panoramic photo of the Haleakala crater (Maui) -- 10,000ft
Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/24/02 07:30 PM

hmm looks familliar. i miss Jtree, i need to head back out there soon.


Posted by: chazman

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/25/02 01:53 AM

This photo is amazing!
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/25/02 04:21 PM

Cosmiques Arete on Aguille du Midi. Snow and rock up to 5.9.
Posted by: crackers

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/25/02 04:23 PM

nice shot!
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/25/02 04:24 PM

How about this one, Chazman?

Hell of a top out to that sloping boulder problem ain't it?
Posted by: chazman

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/25/02 04:44 PM

OK, this is at the zoo... right?
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/25/02 04:45 PM

Well, I guess Serengeti National Park can be called a "Zoo".
Posted by: Jannette

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/26/02 01:44 PM

Here's my contribution: Potrero Chico, Mexico - Me and Ethan on the second of seven pitches of Snot Girlz. Had to circle us on the photo or you'd have trouble seeing us. Heading for that pinnacle on the top.

Jannette
Posted by: Jannette

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/26/02 01:54 PM

Ahhh, what the hell, here's another.
Rumney, New Hampshire:
Darth Vader Crag - my friends climbing the excellent and popular routes "Yoda" (5.9), and "Oby-Won Ryobi" (5.9+).

Jannette
Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/26/02 02:07 PM

obi-wan is way better than yoda. though somehow i got lost when i was trying to find the place and thought some other wall was the vader crage and hopped on some 5.12 thinking, why this is pretty hard for a 5.9.

oops

nice shots
Posted by: GOclimb

More J-Tree - 09/26/02 06:37 PM

I think this one captures the texture of the granite very well. It was shot where we stayed in Jumbo Rocks Campground.

If you go, you should: 1, have excellent jamming technique, 2, have hands like tree bark, or 3, know how to make tape gloves.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: More J-Tree - 09/26/02 08:36 PM

Photo: Real Hidden Valley
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: More J-Tree - 09/26/02 08:38 PM

Photo: This is the Rock Hudson formation. The crack on the right is Hot Rocks 5.11b -- while the climber on the left is Kevin Thaw attempting a new 5.12 sport route.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: More J-Tree - 09/26/02 08:41 PM

Photo: Good old Solid Gold 5.10a -- possibly the most painful face climb in JTree.
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: More J-Tree - 09/26/02 09:03 PM

Wow, great pics!!!

How do you get such large-scale pics with halfway decent resolution at < 100k in size?

GO
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: More J-Tree - 09/26/02 09:30 PM

Resize them with Photoshop. I actually drop a lot of resolution to get the size (from 2900dpi to 100dpi), but for monitor display you don't notice the drop in resolution that much.

Then again, you should see how they look at 2900dpi on a 21 inch flat panel monitor.

Posted by: browndog2

Re: More J-Tree - 09/26/02 09:56 PM

Lester, when we were there this spring, I think that line of bolts had been chopped. Pretty horribly too, quite messy.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: More J-Tree - 09/26/02 11:05 PM

Well ... originally there was a bolted route called Spanish Bombs 5.11c that went straight up the face just left of Hot Rocks. But then key thin flakes broke off on the start making it almost impossible. Later, someone came and used the large crack Looney Tunes 5.9 to climb halfway up and then extended a route that went out onto the blank face to the right protected by bolts. I first thought this was the abandoned finish of Spanish Bombs, but Thaw informed me it was 5.12 something. And that seemed reasonable as he got spanked by the route and had to bail off.

The bolt wars in JTree really got out of hand -- especially in the late 80s to early 90s. I found the whole thing infantile. No one would dare rip the bolts off of a rap-bolted Randy Leavitt 5.13, but dare place bolts on a 5.11a face and RIP -- out they come!

Then these same guys go and put up a route called Rap Bolters Are Weak and totally mess up the original run-out nature of a 5.10R route. Doh!

BTW -- here's my favorite route of all in JTree. This puppy's spanked me so many times, my hiney is red and raw. But I LOVE it! Leave It To Beaver 5.12b
Posted by: crackers

Re: J-Tree? - 09/27/02 03:47 AM

i think i have to go to j-tree this winter. exfoliating granite face climbs? Tell me more please...
Posted by: Jannette

Re: More J-Tree - 09/27/02 04:36 AM

Umm, here's a J-Tree picture I took that speaks for itself.

Jannette
Posted by: Jannette

Re: More J-Tree - 09/27/02 04:48 AM

And if for whatever reason you're too innocent to understand that picture...see this version.
Posted by: crackers

Re: WhatMama? - 09/27/02 04:49 AM

Damn. there i was thinking, well, she's a moth...nah, she meant that. But i wasnt gonna be the one to call attention to it...

so where are the sheep?
Posted by: merlin

Re: More J-Tree - 09/27/02 05:06 AM

well i guess we know where cliffmama stands.....size does matter....
Posted by: strat

Triple X - 09/27/02 12:28 PM

I saw this in a movie called 'Extreme Penetrations' once . Although, I think they were using a smooth sandstone like Stover rock and NOT course granite like J-Tree
Posted by: Jannette

Re: WhatMama? - 09/27/02 01:09 PM

Damn. there i was thinking, well, she's a moth...nah, she meant that. But i wasnt gonna be the one to call attention to it...

Well, that picture was from 1987...before I was married and before I was a mother. Oh - and don't show that picture to my kids, ok?

Just because someone's a mother doesn't mean they forgot how to have fun!

Jannette
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: More J-Tree - 09/27/02 01:40 PM

Toe Jam. Easy lieback to second. Not quite so easy jams to lead.

GO
Posted by: chazman

Re: More J-Tree - 09/27/02 01:44 PM

re: "Then again, you should see how they look at 2900dpi on a 21 inch flat panel monitor"

Why does a screenwriter need a 21" FP monitor? Dude... you look at word documents all day. It's bad enough you show up in Yosemite with every piece of gear brand new (including the packs, ropes and shoes) but now you're on a gadget buying spree... it looks like you're picking up the lodging next trip
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: More J-Tree - 09/27/02 04:03 PM

No new ropes and DEFINITELY no new shoes ... that was the problem ... remember?

Why does a screenwriter need a 21 inch FP monitor?

Oh my friend ... there is so much you don't know.

Look at documents all day? You must be joking! I'm playing video games and watching movies.

Posted by: oenophore

Re: More J-Tree - 09/27/02 10:10 PM

Are you a good example here or a horrible warning?
Posted by: andrew

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/29/02 03:18 PM

thank god for gri-gris. happy turk hoodoo near moab.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/30/02 06:41 PM

Talking about pumpy routes ...

This one's got a lot of pump for a very short distance!


Photo: Hot Lips 5.12b The Grotto area, Malibu Creek, CA
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/30/02 08:03 PM

The Fox. Red Rocks Classic. 5.10+.
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/30/02 08:22 PM

Camp on Heliotrope Ridge of Mt. Baker. Route taken: Roman Mustache.
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/03/02 05:44 PM

Another one from the same trip as above.
Posted by: Dizzy

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/03/02 05:56 PM

Mark,
Nice picture. What's the rope for?

Ta,
Dizz
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/03/02 05:59 PM

Soloing Dennis
Posted by: Chas

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/03/02 07:23 PM

The Fox is a classic, but the picture doesn't show the wider end of the route
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/03/02 07:54 PM

Um, I don't know. Toprope due to chickenhood?
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/04/02 07:39 PM

Speaking of "chicken."


Chicken of the Sea 5.8 Precipice Acadia, ME
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/04/02 07:40 PM

A closer look at the crux will explain the name of this route better.




Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/06/02 01:46 AM

Don't think anyone could guess this one, so I'll give a hint. I took the picture two weeks ago during the best part of our ice season.
Posted by: GOclimb

Two more J-Tree - 10/07/02 01:07 PM

From that same trip. Typical J-tree crack... I think this was from the start of pitch 2 on Mike's Book (5.6?)

GO
Posted by: GOclimb

Last one - 10/07/02 01:08 PM

No climbing in this photo. But it is called Joshua tree, after all.

GO
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Last one - 10/07/02 02:15 PM

That's a great photo.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Two more J-Tree - 10/07/02 05:10 PM

Love those JTree sunsets!

Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Two more J-Tree - 10/07/02 05:11 PM

And the climbing's not half bad.

Slightly thinner crack ... Illusion Dweller 5.10b
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Two more J-Tree - 10/07/02 07:49 PM

I did that when I first started climbing. I'd only climbed at the Gunks and Watchung. I was in San Diego and knew a guy who was a guide. I had a horrible time with the jamming, but popped right over the roof at the top. The guide was astounded, he thought the jamming was the easy part. Non-gunks sissy.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Two more J-Tree - 10/08/02 06:13 AM

I had the same experience. People were going on about the roof. "Watch out! It's brutal. It's totally the crux!"

For a Gunkie it was phff! nothing.

Now ... the first 15 feet of thin crack with that full double rack ... that was hard!
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/14/02 08:00 PM

Just something to get the week started ...

Photo: Two climbers (can you see them?) on Fred 5.10c Tahquitz, CA
Posted by: GeeVee

You want cracks - pick one! - 10/15/02 03:18 PM

Can't recall where in the park this was. The climber is Scott Cosgrove - one of the best guides and funniest people I've ever encountered.

GV
Posted by: Chas

Re: You want cracks - pick one! - 10/15/02 03:30 PM

Ok, for the question of the week, what climb is this and where?
Posted by: Chas

Re: You want cracks - pick one! - 10/15/02 03:35 PM

and for those stuck between the rock season and the ice season
Posted by: GeeVee

Something completely different - 10/15/02 03:35 PM

Rising sun striking El Sarcafago, El Pico de Orizaba, Mexico.

GV
Posted by: Dizzy

Re: You want cracks - pick one! - 10/15/02 03:44 PM

I'll guess Lazy Bum on Sunnyside?

Ta,
Dizz
Posted by: Chas

Re: You want cracks - pick one! - 10/15/02 03:45 PM

Right park wrong end of it.
Posted by: Dizzy

Re: You want cracks - pick one! - 10/15/02 03:55 PM

Maybe a beverage to go with your cookie?

Ta,
Dizz
Posted by: chazman

Re: You want cracks - pick one! - 10/15/02 04:22 PM

I was going to guess Reed's
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: You want cracks - pick one! - 10/15/02 07:22 PM

Looks like the Cookie Cliff to me ...

... and I'll go out on a limb here (cause I was in the valley once and never visited this cliff) and say that it's a climb on the right side of the cliff ... possibly anything from Wheat Thin and over to the right ... and I'll take a shot in the dark ...

The Enigma???

Posted by: Anonymous

Re: You want cracks - pick one! - 10/15/02 07:35 PM

here is one of my friend Yarrow on the lost arrow spire slackline after he fell.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: You want cracks - pick one! - 10/15/02 07:39 PM

that is red zinger on the cookie i believe.
jay
Posted by: Chas

Re: You want cracks - pick one! - 10/15/02 08:07 PM

Red Zinger it is....
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: You want cracks - pick one! - 10/15/02 08:26 PM

Was that you leading it? Just curious because the time i spent in the valley i got a hand injury and never got to do it. How would you say it compares with butterballs, or crack a go go, or cookie monster?
jay
Posted by: Chas

Re: You want cracks - pick one! - 10/15/02 09:24 PM

That was my friend Doug Sprock leading it (I followed after taking the photo from the Meat Grinder belay),.... but for me,

Butterballs, a long endurance problem but the crack size is perfect for my hands so I don't find it that bad.

Crack a Go Go.... more of a problem due to difficult to place good pro at the crux. Haven't gotten up to do it after watching a guy I know who is a really solid climber (did Astroman 4.5x this year alone before June) back off it because he was having problem with the gear (and he has lead it a couple times before)

Cookie Monster: Not that bad, actually great fun except the cruxy finish (talking about the first pitch)

Red Zinger, long endurance problem with a solid crux (goes from fingers and solid ring locks to a long cross through with hands). Feet are good though (see photo for all the crystals and small edges) but its very steep.
Posted by: merlin

Re: You want cracks - pick one! - 10/16/02 03:17 AM

i didnt want to say anything...but when you click on the picture...the name of the climb appears in the address bar of the web browser......

"http://www.gunks.com/w3tuserfiles/60397-lores%20red%20zinger.jpg"
Posted by: Chas

Re: You want cracks - pick one! - 10/16/02 02:00 PM

I know, I know, I know....
Posted by: BobbyS

Re: You want cracks - pick one! - 10/16/02 07:01 PM

Red Zinger is harder than Crack a Go Go. As I recall, the gear was hard on Crack a Go Go but the climbing not as hard. Considerably easier to do a second time or following. Crack a Go Go is probably more technical, Red Zinger quite pumpy, continuous steep jamming. Red Zinger is similar to Butterballs. Lots of stack jamming. Similar in that there are feet outside the crack. Red Zinger is steeper, but the feet outside the crack are better. Red Zinger goes through more of a size range (0 TCU to #1 or 2 camalots) with a more obvious crux. It goes into a somewhat rattly finger section (.5 camalots, steep, into a pod - supposedly a there is a hidden hold here but I never used it). Butterballs is more like continuous jamming in the green/yellow alien size. I remeber thinking Butterballs was pretty hard, then again I only had two sizes in the yellow and green alien and I was pretty desperate trying to stick in my limited number of stoppers. Certainly harder than the crux pitch on the Rostrum which is also
green/yellow alien sizes. All in all probably not that hard of a Yosemite 5.11+. Probably equal to the crux jamming pitch on the West Face of El Cap or the Enduro Pitch on Astroman (5.11).
Posted by: Chas

Re: You want cracks - pick one! - 10/16/02 09:07 PM

Butterballs green and red aliens? I found mostly 0.4 camalots with 0.3 to 0.5 used mainly (figuring the red camalot is similar to the blue 0.3 microcamalot since I only use to green aliens).
Posted by: JoeKayak

Re: You want cracks - pick one! - 10/16/02 09:09 PM

Where's the photo for today??? Someone?
Posted by: strat

Adirondack Sunrise - 10/16/02 09:25 PM

Sunrise in the Adirondacks. Sumthin a little different.
Posted by: browndog2

Re: VIEWS Heavy Hitter - 10/16/02 09:55 PM

Lester, you know I've been lavish in my praise, admiration and gratitude for your photo offerings, but I thought I'd add one more note. Over the weekend, your thread passed 5000 views, making it the most popular thread on the forum (previous record holder was 4500 or so for toughest climb for its grade). So kudos, and thanks to the other contributors. 10K here we come.
Posted by: JoeKayak

Re: Adirondack Sunrise - 10/16/02 09:57 PM

Yeah! Now that's what I'm talking about. Amazing. Thanks.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: VIEWS Heavy Hitter - 10/16/02 11:38 PM

browndog:

Golly ... I better warm the old scanner up!

Thanks to everyone who's contributed photos ... they've been incredible.

Here's some more climber's porn -- the entire Tahquitz cliff seen from Suicide. Can anyone spot The Vampire 5.11a?

Posted by: strat

Promotional - 10/17/02 12:56 AM

This could have been an incredible advertising/promotional scheme. Could have been a gunks.com photo contest. Now if one ever happens I will have nothing but the dregs to submit
Posted by: tokyo bill

'nother pic - 10/17/02 03:22 AM

Can't compete with those scenery shots. Here's a climbing one from a recent weekend, however.

Cody Peterson on Emily (5.9) Makuiwa, Japan.

Posted by: Anonymous

Re: 'nother pic - 10/17/02 11:25 AM

Here's one from my recent trip. My first aid route!
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: 'nother pic - 10/21/02 07:46 PM

Something to kick of the new week ...


Mickey Mantle 5.8 Suicide Idyllwild, CA
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: 'nother pic - 10/21/02 09:19 PM

Beautiful, as always! No offense meant, "Lester", but you must have been climbing for about 100 years - where do you get all these awesome photos?

GO
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: 'nother pic - 10/21/02 09:28 PM

Not quite a hundred years ... but I ain't no Dave Graham!

As for the photos ... thanks ... but I'm getting close to the bottom of the slide barrel.

Time to start climbing and shooting again!
Posted by: GwenL

Guess where? - 10/22/02 01:04 AM

I've been trying to post this for a while, can't figure out why it doesn't work. The FAQ talk about picture files having to be web pages, but the webmaster tells me to simply attach the file. I'll try one more time, hope it works.

Guess the location! We climbed this four weeks ago. For scale, the small black dots on the snow near the edge of the shadow (center of photo) are our packs.

Gwen
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: Guess where? - 10/22/02 04:00 PM

Is it on this continent? This hemisphere?

GO
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Guess where? - 10/22/02 10:59 PM

It is in this hemisphere. I guess by "this continent" you mean North America?

I probably gave it away when I said we climbed it recently.
Posted by: Chas

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/23/02 02:54 PM

A fun climb in the Sierras (see trip report), which is "Clyde Minaret- Direct variation). Picture of the pitch 8
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/23/02 03:05 PM

Mike leading the first pitch of Freudian Slip (5.8), Big Slide Mountain in the Adirondacks. No, it's not a bad photograph- those were the conditions we had!
Posted by: MarcC

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/23/02 09:50 PM

From our recent sport climbing trip to the east side of the Sierra....here's Clyde Minaret (the obvious one in the center) from the Minaret Vista at Mammoth Mtn.
Posted by: Chas

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/23/02 10:20 PM

Clyde from Minaret Lake
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/23/02 10:43 PM

Another fine climb we did about a month ago. The approach is nice, too. An hour of hiking and about four hours of skiing up a beautiful valley.

Gwen
Posted by: Julie

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/23/02 10:58 PM

Yikes, is that a fracture line across the bottom?
Posted by: crackers

Re: where? - 10/24/02 03:54 PM

okay, stop the torture and tell us where!
Posted by: Ewick

Re: where? - 10/24/02 04:05 PM

Here's one of my fav's from my visit to the valley
Posted by: merlin

Re: where? - 10/24/02 04:37 PM

thats a sweet shot
Posted by: crackers

Re: where? - 10/24/02 04:43 PM

it is rather amazing...
Posted by: JoeKayak

Re: where? - 10/24/02 04:45 PM

Oh my god! Let me clean the drool off the keyboard (yet again); thank you thank you thank you.
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: where? - 10/24/02 08:30 PM

Did you hike up half dome, or climb it? Incredible view from up there, isn't it? Worth the price of admission right there!

GO
Posted by: GwenL

Re: where? - 10/24/02 11:06 PM

OK, OK. Both of these waterfalls are in a valley about 10 (air) miles east of Santiago, Chile (where I live). The Yerba Loca valley has at least 10 waterfalls in this area, and more further up the valley, several of which have never been climbed. Will Gadd visited Chile in September with the Bannf film festival and climbed in Yerba Loca; he thought it was great. An undeveloped area with great potential.

Attached is a view towards the entrance of the valley.
Posted by: merlin

Re: where? - 10/24/02 11:39 PM

word yo
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: Guess where? - 10/25/02 02:49 PM

You're right, I guessed it was in the southern hemisphere when you said it was the peak ice climbing season for you. By the way, Chile is in the southern hemisphere, so when I asked, I think the answer should have been "no".

Anyway, cool photos!

GO
Posted by: pitfall

Re: Guess where? - 10/25/02 04:04 PM

There is an eastern and western hemisphere also.
Posted by: Chas

Re: where? - 10/25/02 04:52 PM

Gwen,

ok, 10 airmiles , but how far by ground transport and what is the traveling time. (I'll be spending my summer down in Peru/ Bolivia and have been thinking about Chile if I don't go to Nepal (since my climbing partner Hugo has friends there).
Posted by: Ewick

Re: where? - 10/25/02 05:11 PM

That pic's actually from Taft point Go, somewhere lost in the haze behind me is ElCap. Here's another one for ya
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: where? - 10/25/02 06:20 PM

Yeah, it looks a bit like those photos taken of the pinnacle that sticks out on HD, but I guess I guessed wrong. Oh well.

By the way, your attachment on this last post???

GO
Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: where? - 10/25/02 06:23 PM

i thought it was half dome as well, so you aint the only one.

still its an awesome shot.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Guess where? - 10/26/02 07:41 PM

Especially from this distance, I can't read your mind! "Is it in this hemisphere" could have meant "western hemisphere."

Posted by: GwenL

Re: where? - 10/26/02 07:51 PM

Chas

From where I live in the eastern suburbs of Santiago, it's about a 40 minute drive to the trailhead. 20 minutes by road and then 20 minutes for the final 3-4 km by dirt road. From the trailhead (Villa Paulina), we took about five hours--an hour hiking then four hours skiing randonee, gaining 1400m.

I also live about one hour & 15 minutes drive from the ski areas east of town.

Where in Chile are you thinking of going?

Gwen
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/28/02 01:25 AM

From Emmett's Y2K trip 3 years ago...
Posted by: Dizzy

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/28/02 04:25 PM

Mikey,
Wasn't that the infamous KY2U2 expedition?

Ta,
Dizz
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: Guess where? - 10/28/02 04:41 PM

Okay, okay. I was thinking ice in fall = either it's not fall = southern hemisphere, or the far north. I'd make a lousy lawyer. Anyhow, nice pics!

GO
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Guess where? - 10/28/02 11:07 PM

With all this talk of ice (brr) ... I thought some of you might be interested in what one of my local crags will look like this winter.

Hole Patrol 5.12b

The Grotto Malibu Creek State Park
Posted by: strat

Would You Like Fries with That? - 10/29/02 05:37 PM

At the base of Solar Slabs after finishing Johnny Vegas...yes, it's an In and Out Burger hat
Posted by: Chas

Re: Would You Like Fries with That? - 10/29/02 05:46 PM

Another route near Johnny Vegas, named Red Zinger

"sorry for the poor quality, I scan as a 32MB file, so I have to play with it a lot to send and loose a lot of resolution"
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Would You Like Fries with That? - 11/04/02 06:47 PM

Something to start the week off ...

How about two climbing areas in ONE photo!


Castle Dome (Castle Crags) with Mt. Shasta in the background.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Would You Like Fries with That? - 11/19/02 09:05 PM

Here's some more local (for me) climbing.

First --

5.11d friction route at Suicide. (the crux is higher!)
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Would You Like Fries with That? - 11/19/02 09:10 PM

Here's my local gym.

3200 feet above JPL in Pasadena. Turn of the century railroad and mountain inn provides ruins to climb on.

Grip Wheel V3 (traverse, of course)

*and there is natural rock up there as well. still working on Rocket Science. when I get, I'll let ya know
Posted by: d-elvis

Re: Would You Like Fries with That? - 11/19/02 09:12 PM

If that's you, you got nice legs and must use a conditioner on your hair!!
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Would You Like Fries with That? - 11/19/02 09:13 PM

Oh yeah ... there's some pretty good views from my local gym as well.

View of Sunset, Inspiration and Muir Peaks. Echo Summit (with bare tree) to the far right is the location of the mountain inn and railway built in 1887.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Would You Like Fries with That? - 11/19/02 09:14 PM

That is me ... and thank you for noticing!
Posted by: d-elvis

Re: Would You Like Fries with That? - 11/19/02 09:24 PM

The first photo that opened up was clearly a woman with a long pony-tail. The attachment changed. I've been framed!

This is you?
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Would You Like Fries with That? - 11/20/02 01:07 AM

I'm in photo 2.

Photo 1 is Mrs. Lester.


Posted by: d-elvis

Re: Would You Like Fries with That? - 11/20/02 01:57 PM

so the compliment is really hers
Posted by: Woot

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 11/22/02 08:25 PM

Omigosh! Browndoggie pullin' plastic...
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 11/26/02 12:17 AM

Here's a picture I took on a hike I took this past Saturday.

Gwen
Posted by: pedestrian

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 11/26/02 09:50 PM

Hey Gwen, can I come crash at your place?
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 11/26/02 11:22 PM

Here's another picture from the same hike, taken from the summit of Cerro Pintor (4200m). It's looking south and a bit east. The hike is a nice one, starts at the La Parva ski area at 2800m, about an hour from my house. About 4:30 to the top. Nice day hike, and good conditioning also. I met five other folks (all Chileans) also conditioning for Aconcagua.

Gwen
Posted by: irisharehere

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 11/27/02 01:49 PM

Thats it Gwen, we're all coming to stay at your place!!!!! In return, you get a place to crash whenever you visit Manhatten!!!!!

IRISH
Posted by: alicex4

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 11/27/02 03:05 PM

Same thing goes for me! Except I think Chile beats SJ!
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 11/28/02 12:27 AM

Here's a photo from a hike I took today. It's a little fuzzy because it was quite hazy. I took the picture from the summit of 1880m La Campana, in a national park of the same name and in Chile's coastal range. La Campana is interesting because Charles Darwin climbed it (actually rode on horseback) in 1834. He stayed on the summit all day and proclaimed "he'd never enjoyed one day more thoroughly." Of course, he was only 25 and had a few more experiences to live through!

Special prize to the first person who can guess the mountain in the picture.

Gwen
Posted by: Judge11

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 11/28/02 02:11 PM

Gwen,
I just hope I didn't win a case of that South American scourge....dysentery.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 11/28/02 03:02 PM

Dysentery--you are thinking of some other part of South America, or perhaps Central America. Really, much more common in Africa. Dysentery is typical of tropical or subtropical climates, overcrowded/overpopulated areas, underdeveloped areas without access to clean water, and populations with poor hygine habits. None of these describe Chile.

I suppose if you practiced poor hygine in Chile, you might find yourself some dysentery. Probably most like to find it around areas where climbers have trashed base camps with garbage, rotten food, feces, etc.

Gwen
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 11/28/02 05:56 PM

No idea, but the photo is freekin' gorgeous!!!

Thanks!

GO
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 11/28/02 07:05 PM

>> guess the mountain in the picture <<

Aconcagua?

Geeze
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 11/30/02 09:49 PM

Geeze--you and Judge both guessed correctly (he by email). It is Aconcagua. Kind of spectacular how it stands "head and shoulders" above the rest.

Gwen
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 12/01/02 09:51 PM

Not anywhere as spectacular as the Andes ... but a good hike nonetheless.

Park car, hump 6 miles to Muir Peak (4700ft) for this excellent view of Mt. Wilson and Eaton Canyon.

From left to right: Mt. Lowe, San Gabriel Peak (6161ft), Occidental Peak, Mt. Wilson and Mt. Harvard. Far to the right and lower -- Henninger Flats LA Fire Dept. Experimental Nursery.

Also, on the solar telescope tower of Mt. Wilson, they've got a web cam uploading live images every 4 minutes. Great site.

Mt. Wilson Web Cam
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 12/01/02 11:12 PM

Very nice shot, Lester.

Here's one I took today on a hike up to Cerro Pintor (4217m). 4:30 to the top, a gain of over 1400m in just over 6 miles. The peak in the picture is Cerro Leonora, just over 5000m; hope to hike it within a few weeks.

If you squint, you can see some hikers on the ridgeline, which is what I was trying to capture in the shot.

Gwen
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 12/01/02 11:22 PM

Snow!

Cool shot, Gwen.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 12/02/02 10:14 PM

the local wall only three miles from the beach. . . hey, even chucktown, sc "rocks."

Posted by: MurphysLaw

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - slightly OFF TOPIC - 12/02/02 10:18 PM

Unless your camera has a time-travel mode, you need to change the day/date feature of it - 12/4/2002 is 2 days into the future.

Is this a Twilight Zone sort of thing?

Posted by: andrew

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - slightly OFF TOPIC - 12/04/02 05:08 PM

My hardest lead to date - pitch one of Sundevil Chimney on the Titan in the Fisher Towers. I did it hammerless at very sustained C3 - lots of Lowe Balls and Aliens in mud.
Posted by: Charlie

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - slightly OFF TOPIC - 12/04/02 05:20 PM

Hey Andrew, great picture!
Posted by: tokyo bill

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - slightly OFF TOPIC - 12/05/02 05:22 AM

Andrew -

Nice one! My palms sweat just thinkin' about it...
Posted by: Judge11

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - slightly OFF TOPIC - 12/05/02 03:13 PM

I remember a few years back driving out by those towers and thinking..."Man, you gotta' be nuts to aid those tall mud piles..."

Hats off to ya' bud...very cool.
Posted by: han_solo

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - slightly OFF TOPIC - 12/05/02 04:41 PM

getting close to breaking the 10,000 views mark
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - back on topic - 12/06/02 11:06 PM

To celebrate smashing the 10,000 mark ... how about a couple of shots?

First ... just another 5.12 in The Grotto, Malibu Creek.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - back on topic - 12/06/02 11:07 PM

... and North Astro Dome, JTree.

Climbers on Figures on a Landscape.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - back on topic - 12/07/02 10:40 PM

Ah the Tetons!
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - back on topic - 12/07/02 10:41 PM

Exum ridge on the Grand.
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - back on topic - 12/07/02 10:46 PM

Okay, here's one:

View from inside a slot canyon in Anza Borego Desert State Park.

GO
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - back on topic - 12/07/02 10:46 PM

One more in the teton area.....blacktail butte. Limestone sport routes 5.11a

Photo credits go to Johnnybfishman.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - back on topic - 12/07/02 11:02 PM

Alpenglow!!!
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - back on topic - 12/08/02 05:59 AM

During a sunset rainstorm in the tetons......later that night we got a moonbow...yeah thats right moonbow, it was crazy.

John
Posted by: Frank Florence

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - back on topic - 12/08/02 08:13 PM

Following the Alpine theme: West Ridge of Forbidden Peak
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - back on topic - 12/08/02 11:29 PM

Back to the Andes for a picture. This is a picture to the north, up Estereo El Arrayan, just northeast of Santiago. I hiked 6 miles up the west bank of the river and back down the east bank. Thunderclouds were zinging over the summits, so I stayed in the watershed.
Posted by: oenophore

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - back on topic - 12/09/02 11:53 AM

Stop it you guys; you're all making me envious!
Posted by: alicex4

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - back on topic - 12/09/02 03:01 PM

I need more vacation time!
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - back on topic - 12/11/02 02:30 AM

Well I just figured out how to get pictures off of my video so here the pictures come.....slowly but they will...here chapel pond slab camping at its best! wow are there some good boulder problems there.
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - back on topic - 12/11/02 02:41 AM

Yeah, bouldering, that's EXACTLY what chapel pond is known for
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - back on topic - 12/11/02 03:00 AM

That is exactly what I was trying to say.....yeah, sure I was just there to boulder...boulder under a perfectly good 600+ foot slab. Are you serious! Of course I was there to do some trad climbing. How can you avoid all the bouders though...we mainly climbed them in the dark. Its not a great picture but you get the idea it was dark.
Posted by: Jannette

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - Mexico - 12/11/02 04:27 PM

Vacation time again soon! Heading back to Potrero Chico, Mexico next month. Couple of thousand feet of limestone and cheap beer!
Posted by: Jannette

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - Mexico - 12/11/02 04:32 PM

La Estrellita, Potrero Chico, Mexico.
Posted by: strat

Tis the Season - 12/11/02 05:04 PM

yours truly top roping some overhanging serac on the lower coleman glacier of Mt Baker
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Tis the Season - 12/12/02 03:07 AM

A few more pics this time from my digital camera. Mount Mansfield in all its glory.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Tis the Season - 12/12/02 03:08 AM

A nice overlook....some call it the profanity trail, skiers call it the hour glass chute.
Posted by: GwenL

Warning: pictures on the way (I hope) - 12/12/02 11:45 PM

I'm planning a quick trip south for five days over Christmas; hoping to get to Torres del Paine for some trekking (and relaxing). Also, perhaps a day-long sailing trip up some fjords from Puerto Natales. Charging my digital camera battery now.

Round-trip airfare is $200 to Punta Arenas. 4x4 rental is reasonable. Hotels are cheap--good thing, as we're too lazy to camp on this trip. Life is hard.

Gwen
Posted by: GwenL

Afternoon in the Andes - 12/21/02 11:05 PM

This is Cerro Altar, a 5200m peak east of Santiago. Took this picture this afternoon, on a hike up Cerro Provincia, a 2750m peak just a few miles east of town. Nice hike; gains about 6000 feet in 7 miles, and the trailhead is about 15 minutes from town.

Gwen
Posted by: GwenL

Another Afternoon in the Andes - 12/22/02 10:23 PM

Here is a picture looking southwest from Cerro Pintor, a 4200m peak east of Santiago. Weather was a little iffy, with lots of cold wind and wispy clouds blowing up the slopes.
Posted by: andrew

Re: Another Afternoon in the Andes - 12/22/02 11:25 PM

hey gwen - whats the snowpack like on aconcagua like this year? i'm headed down there in three weeks and want to do an ice route.
Posted by: korona

Re: Kyrgyzstan - 12/23/02 03:39 PM

The view on our way down from tower 3, Korona, Kyrgyzstan.

The dissertation is done and I'm off to Yosemite!

Happy holidays,
--Eric
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Another Afternoon in the Andes - 12/23/02 10:38 PM

Hey Andrew

No idea what the snowpack is like on Aconcagua. I'm also headed there, on 11 Jan. Plan to climb the Polish Glacier route. Which route are you contemplating?

Gwen
Posted by: andrew

Re: Another Afternoon in the Andes - 12/24/02 12:22 AM

I'll likely be on Ibanez-Marmillod, though depending on conditions I may try the East Glacier.

This picture is Room To Shroom at JTree.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Another Afternoon in the Andes - 12/25/02 06:28 AM

Aw man....room to shroom looks sweet! I gotta get on that one......9 days to go!
Posted by: CrackBoy

Ice, its not just for you drinks - 12/30/02 08:34 PM

Some pics from my first time on ice
From Stoney Clove the day of phils fall
Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Ice, its not just for you drinks - 12/30/02 08:37 PM

more
Posted by: empicard

Re: Ice, its not just for you drinks - 12/30/02 08:38 PM

I'm an ass, and forgot to bring a camera for my first time ice climbing.
Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Ice, its not just for you drinks - 12/30/02 08:39 PM

even more
Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Ice, its not just for you drinks - 12/30/02 08:40 PM

heres some of the fearless leader

Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Ice, its not just for you drinks - 12/30/02 08:43 PM

Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Ice, its not just for you drinks - 12/30/02 08:45 PM

second to last one
Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Ice, its not just for you drinks - 12/30/02 08:46 PM

last one
Posted by: d-elvis

Re: Ice, its not just for you drinks - 12/30/02 08:55 PM

scary LEAD er
Posted by: strat

Sheesh, low heels? - 12/30/02 10:52 PM

I hope you took that pic just before I was about to move that right foot up otherwise that is the worst crampon technique I've ever seen.

Root canal #2 down! Yipppeee
Posted by: GwenL

My Christmas Vacation - 12/31/02 12:04 AM

Here is where I spent my holiday. This picture taken from the south side of the massif. Cuernos (horns) on the left, torres (towers) in the center.

Gwen
Posted by: GwenL

Re: My Christmas Vacation - 12/31/02 12:07 AM

This picture taken at the top of the moraine in front of the torres. Very nice three hour hike to absolutely jaw-dropping scenery. We were very lucky, as (supposedly) it's fairly rare to actually see the torres!

Gwen
Posted by: GeeVee

Re: My Christmas Vacation - 12/31/02 12:55 AM

Stop it (you're making us all jealous)
Posted by: GwenL

Re: My Christmas Vacation - 12/31/02 09:52 PM

Well, it makes me jealous, too! I only was able to spend two days at Torres del Paine. More of a recon visit. It's actually pretty easy to get into and out of, especially if you have a rental car. On our hike up to the mirador (view point), we went past the Refugio Chileno. At the campground, a pair of climbers were spreading out and sorting gear, getting ready to try one of the torres. *That* made me jealous!

I also have some great photos of the El Calafate (Argentina) area, in Parque Nacional de Las Glaciares, and Magellanic Penguins in a rookery near Punta Arenas. However, they really don't qualify as "other climbing areas."

Someone asked about Aconcagua's snowpack. I took the attached photo from Ruta 7, a view of the south face up the Horcones River valley, at about 9 a.m. this morning. Current enough for ya?

Gwen
Posted by: MarcC

Re: Ice, its not just for you drinks - 01/01/03 05:25 PM

Just a friendly comment about that helmet - I consider it vital in ice climbing, unfortunately the way the climber in the photo is wearing it, it probably wouldn't do much good. It's perched far too high on the head (probably 'cause of the hat) to offer any protection for the temples or the corpus callosum (the nerve center just under the bulge of bone on the back of the head). A sufficient impact in any of these areas is usually a quick death or at least a ticket to instant vegetablehood. It's just like wearing a helmet that is too small.

Also, a helmet worn that high on the head is usually pretty unstable, ie: a blow can easily push it aside, exposing even more skull for the next impact. A quick test is to smack the side of the helmet with the heel of your hand. If you can dislodge it, then it is improperly sized and/or strapped on too loosly.
Posted by: strat

Re: Ice, its not just for you drinks - 01/01/03 06:05 PM

Yes, Mark, I know that my helmet was not fit properly that day. Thanks for pointing it out.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Y2K +3 CRASH - 01/01/03 10:26 PM

Have no idea how it happened, but my entire photo file got deleted yesterday. Mindboggling.

But yesterday, I also hiked up to Sunset Peak (4600ft above Pasadena and JPL), and just as I got to the summit, a high front was pushing out the low pressure, blowing all the clouds out of the San Gabriel range. Resulting in some favorable light for photos.

(And for a sunny Rose Parade today!)
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Y2K +3 CRASH - 01/01/03 10:28 PM

Another view ... looking down from the summit. On the other side of the clouds would be the Rose Bowl.
Posted by: JoeKayak

Re: Y2K +3 CRASH - 01/02/03 03:41 AM

Lester-

I'm sorry to hear about your loss. I'm sure everyone joins me when I say that we will all feel it!! I guess you'll just have to get out more! And, you have this site as an informal repository, containing many of your finest.

GwenL-

I've called the State Department to begin the repartriation process for you (are you a US citizen?). You are clearly having too much fun down there. Now stop it this minute. And thanks for those lovely pics!!

kayak.
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: Y2K +3 CRASH - 01/02/03 02:08 PM

If I've been paying attention, the vast majority of your e-pix were scanned from slides. So you can get them back. Not so fortunate is the poor sap who shoots digital pix exclusively.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Y2K +3 CRASH - 01/02/03 09:35 PM

Thanks guys ...

Oh yeah, I have all the originals. Just lost the enormous amount of time it required to scan them all. (I also lost several dozen non-climbing shots as well.

But the good news is, this forces me to go back into the old pile of slides and negatives. And lookee! I've already found some chestnuts.

*Here's Dennis Walker leading Double Overhang 5.10 at Claudius Smith Den.

Posted by: intrepid02

Dacks Pic - 01/06/03 06:14 PM

This was taken about 200 vertical feet from the summit of Marcy on December 28. I later summitted, but not before those clouds caught up with me, unfortunately.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Dacks Pic - 01/08/03 08:19 PM

Nice shot! I love B&W.

In keeping with the season ...

Ft. Tryon Ice Climb NEI IV
Posted by: intrepid02

Re: Dacks Pic - 01/08/03 10:00 PM

Well, the original is actually color. I just changed it to B&W in photoshop. Believe it or not that was taken w/ a lil point and shoot advantix-film camera. I'm thinking about breaking open the film canister to see if I can work w/ the negative in the darkroom.
Posted by: han_solo

Re: Dacks Pic - 01/09/03 02:22 PM

i love this thread!
Posted by: Anonymous

j-tree - 01/13/03 10:59 PM

Just got back from J-tree on saturday...going from southern cali to burlington Vermont isn't easy!
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: j-tree - 01/13/03 11:03 PM

Black tide aka. sticher quilts 5.7
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: j-tree - 01/13/03 11:04 PM

Like a previous post the headstone south west corner, a classic.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: j-tree - 01/14/03 12:11 AM

Let's keep that So. Ca. hit parade rolling!

Sail Away 5.8
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: j-tree - 01/14/03 12:13 AM

The start of the phenomenal "Run For Your LIfe" 5.10c

Real Hidden Valley
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: j-tree - 01/14/03 12:16 AM

Closer to LA ...

Sculptor's Crack 5.10d Stoney Point

To the right is Sandblast 5.11c

Both climbs were created by the likes of Royal Robbins and Chouinard practicing their nailing/aid skills over several years.
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Run For Your Life - 01/14/03 02:11 AM

Cool - I did that climb last time I was out there! Rated 10c...and the easiest move is about a 10a. Maybe the most sustained thin edging route I've ever done. I loved the route names on that formation - the next route over is something like "Run From Your Wife".
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Run For Your Life - 01/14/03 05:01 PM

It is an awesome route. Far, far better, IMO, than Solid Gold.

It is also very sustained as you say. I've lead it 5 or six times and each time some part of it gave me pause.

The best route nearby is found on the steep face out to the right. Another cool route with a cool name ... Tick, Tick, Boom (5.12a).

The other neat thing about RFYL is when you are belaying either at the bottom or top, you've got a great box seat to watch non-Gunkie types get stymied at the roof of Illusion Dweller!

Posted by: Anonymous

LEts Heat it up with some more So. Cali - 01/21/03 09:59 PM

This cold weather has all us North East Climbers crammed into small, smelly climbing gyms. While on the opposite coast others are climbing in beautiful 50-70+ degree weather....With Blue Skies....Imagine that, blue skies.....hahah....

So hopefully these pictures of warm climbing areas will get us through this brutally cold winter....

Heres a shot of yours truly on Sitting here in LImbo 5.9 from my recent trip to Jtree....

John..
Posted by: strat

You want blue sky? - 01/21/03 10:02 PM

Why go to CALI when you can go to the Daks? The sky was bluer this Saturday in Indian Lake then I have EVER seen it before- even from 19,000 feet. It was 14 below so what? Didn't stop us from climbing a mega-classic route (of frozen water)
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: You want blue sky? - 01/21/03 10:15 PM

I was in the Daks this past weekend and yes it was beautiful but I would still rather be trad climbing some place warm.......I mean shit the weather forecast for tommarow has a high of 0 Degrees and a low of -15 thats without the nasty windchill.....Thats nippy!

John
Posted by: strat

Re: You want blue sky? - 01/21/03 10:18 PM

Nah, you got it all wrong. This is what you should be doing when it is like that out.
Posted by: chrisinvermont

Re: You want blue sky? - 01/22/03 02:12 AM

The sky was amazing, this photo doesn't really come close to how deep blue it was. I am just surprised the digital camera was still working. This is from a quick snowshoe up Camel's Hump. Amazing views of Mt. Washington and the Dak's.
Posted by: d-elvis

Re: You want blue sky? - 01/22/03 03:01 PM

My climbing partner.
Posted by: MurphysLaw

Re: You want blue sky? - 01/22/03 03:08 PM

Dude, that's a pretty extreme overhang you fellas are on - is that Kansas City?
Posted by: strat

Re: You want blue sky? - 01/22/03 03:11 PM

some sort of pedophile or something?
Posted by: browndog2

Re: You want blue sky? - 01/22/03 03:26 PM

Should leave a little more pro for your partner when you traverse. He'd take a nasty pendulum if he came off. Good thing someone soloed by to keep a hand on his tushie.
Posted by: pitfall

Re: You want blue sky? - 01/22/03 03:44 PM

Look strat, that kid's on toprope just like you!
Sorry, I couldn't resist.
d-elvis- that is awesome, I wish I started climbing that young, maybe I wouldn't suck at it.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: You want blue sky? - 01/22/03 04:19 PM

Not a route, but something you can see at Red Rocks....
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: I want blue sky? - 01/22/03 06:00 PM

I can still smell this day......It was a beautiful day until the afternoon thunderstorms came rolling in.

Grand Teton National Park
Photo taken in Symmetry Col on our way to the SW Ridge of Symmetry Spire.
Ice Point is on the left and Symmetry on the right

John
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: I want blue sky? - 01/22/03 06:15 PM

Wow Johnny those sure are small photos......mind making them a bit bigger so we can actually see them!
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: I want blue sky? - 01/22/03 06:37 PM

They look pretty big on my computer........try holding the mouse over the picture and then that button appears that resizes them.....OTherwise...your screwed.
peace
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: I want blue sky? - 01/22/03 08:43 PM

You can resize your photos with most software that comes with either pre-loaded with your computer or when you load your camera software.

Here's a shot of the Sentinel in Real Hidden Valley. If you look real close you might be able to make out a climber halfway up Illusion Dweller.

Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: I want blue sky? - 01/22/03 08:50 PM

If you couldn't find the climber on Illusion Dweller ... here's a closer look.
Posted by: MarcC

Re: I want blue sky? - 01/22/03 10:04 PM

try holding the mouse over the picture and then that button appears that resizes them.....

I believe this feature is only available in IE 6.x
Posted by: hartmann

Re: My Christmas Vacation - 01/22/03 10:47 PM

The next few pictures are from a ski tour of Stotxigen Firsten (2752m) Switzerland just before Christmas. We took the train to Realp (1538m) and were able to ski right from the train station.
Posted by: hartmann

Re: Ski Tour - 01/22/03 10:50 PM

Approaching the summit.
Posted by: hartmann

Re: Ski Tour - 01/22/03 10:52 PM

View looking west from the summit.
Posted by: crackers

Re: Ski Tour - 01/23/03 12:21 AM

is there space on your couch?
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: I want blue sky? - 01/23/03 04:28 AM

sooo.............here's Toby and Todd planning another afternoon of fun out in Jtree.

peeacce

john
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: I want blue sky? - 01/23/03 04:34 AM

Orderville Canyon, Zion Utah.

Too bad I didnt get on some dicey aid routes...

John
Posted by: crackers

Re: I want blue sky? - 01/23/03 01:50 PM

Dirtbags!
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: I want blue sky? - 01/23/03 05:37 PM

Crackers.............I wouldn't have it any other way!
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/23/03 06:59 PM

Looking across Chapel Pond in warmer times. Can you see the kayaker?
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/23/03 07:26 PM

Ahhh....whats the color of the trees again I forgot. The only color that comes to mind is white. I miss the warmer times.
Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/23/03 07:28 PM

Toby What climb is that?
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/23/03 07:34 PM

The right side is sticher quilts (aka black tide) 5.7, and the one on the left is double dip 5.6.... this is the echo wall
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/23/03 09:14 PM

I think this is the color of trees he was going for ....




The Lake District in England.

No cliffs visible in this shot, but the climbing there is incredible.

When it's dry.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/23/03 09:20 PM

I think Stitcher "Quits" instead of "Quilts."


Anyway ... here's another in the series of Hidetaka Suzuki onsighting "Rap Bolters Are Weak" 5.11d.

Posted by: GeeVee

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/23/03 09:24 PM

When it's dry.

Which two days are they, usually, in case anyone's planning a trip?
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/23/03 09:38 PM

Oh man ... The Lakes and rain.

I asked the locals about when the driest season was for climbing. They looked at me like I was crazy. The dry season is the day it doesn't rain.

Still, I managed to get in 1.5 days of climbing out of three.

When it rains lightly, you can still climb at the smaller, steeper cliffs.

When you do manage to get on the rock there ... the climbing and the scenery is brilliant!

Posted by: chazman

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/24/03 06:56 PM

Sometimes you don’t have to look much further than your own backyard.
Posted by: chazman

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/24/03 06:57 PM

...and all within 10 minutes from my house
Posted by: empicard

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/24/03 07:14 PM

is there anything climbable underneath there in the summer time??!!
wow. what a yard.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/24/03 08:19 PM

Maybe this will help usher in some tropical weather.......Tobystegman on She's the Bosch 5.11c/d, City Of Rocks, ID...Great Climb!

John

.....man those were the days, climbing with no shirt....
Posted by: chazman

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/24/03 09:07 PM

nothing but moss and choss... but give it a week of near zero and
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/24/03 09:08 PM

Nice ice!

Do those routes come into condition every season?

Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/24/03 09:15 PM

Here's a few for the weekend.

First -- a sunny WINTER ascent of "Double Overhang" 5.10b/c at Claudius Smith's Den.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/24/03 09:17 PM

Next ...

A sunny winter ascent in Joshua Tree.

George Squibb just below the crux of Father Figure 5.12d
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/24/03 09:20 PM

Finally ...

A sunny summer day up on Mt. Shasta.

Posted by: Layback

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/24/03 09:20 PM

Top of Mt. Adams in Washington State. Rainier is in the background.
Posted by: Layback

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/24/03 09:24 PM

Taken from Camp Muir (Rainier) looking towards Mt. Adams at sunset.
Posted by: intrepid02

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/25/03 07:51 PM

Here's a pic I took from Camp Muir.

For the complete TR:
http://mandarax.net/rainier
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/26/03 03:54 AM

Conor and I on the summit of the Grand Teton on our car-to-car ascent of the Owen Spalding in the 80+mph winds.......It was a chilly august day.

Peace ,

John
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/27/03 03:03 PM

Where is that Route, Double Roof (5.10b/c), that is pictured before? Claudios Smith's Den? Where is that?
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/27/03 06:58 PM

Claudius Smith's Den is in a state park in New Jersey.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/27/03 07:45 PM

Which state park? Is it in the Jersey Climbing Guide?
I live in Northern Joisey. I would like to check it out when the temperature becomes more friendly.
Posted by: hartmann

Re: Ski Tour - 01/27/03 08:23 PM

Me at the summit of Stotxigen Firsten (2752m) Switzerland.
Posted by: hartmann

Re: Ski Tour - 01/27/03 08:36 PM

View to the East from summit of Fulfirst (~2400 m). The clouds in the valley remain for weeks at a time. Going into the mountains is the only way to see the sun from October though March in Switzerland.
Paul
Posted by: hartmann

Re: Ski Tour - 01/27/03 08:43 PM

As I approached the summit of Piz Sardona (~3050 m) I took this picture looking back towards Piz Segnas (~3100 m), which we did later that day. It was about -15 C out that day. One of my friends (the little spec in the picture) was having trouble with the skins on his skis.
Posted by: pda

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/27/03 09:15 PM

It's actually in Harriman State Park in New York (near Sloatsburg), not in New Jersey. You'll find it on NY/NJ trail conference maps. Note it is illegal to rock climb in Harriman. There have been several deaths at the Den so it is not taken lightly there.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/27/03 09:53 PM

Is there any more of a specific description you can give me to locate the route or where the climbing is exactly there?
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/28/03 02:57 AM

pda:

Thanks for the correction. Yeah, NY State. Harriman.

Definitely illegal. Back when the photo was taken it wasn't a considered the big "no-no" it is now.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/28/03 03:00 AM

Bone:

I honestly can't remember how to specifically get to the den. It's been a long time and I only went there once.

While Double Overhang is a great little route, I can't say there is much else there that makes it worth the risk of getting caught.

Posted by: pda

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/28/03 01:01 PM

BC: Directions to the Den:

Park at the Tuxedo train station, cross the tracks, and follow the red-dot trail south across the Ramapo River on a footbridge. Go under the thruway, take a left on Grove Drive, and then climb the steep Harriman plateau to find a wide view. Continue to a right turn onto the red-dash trail, followed by a left on the blue-marked trail. The cave overhang is on your right.

The double overhang route will be quite obvious.


If you're looking for climbing in this general area, you'd do better to find the Transit Cliffs in Hillburn, though that is private property and also off-limits. hehehe
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/28/03 02:53 PM

Thanks PDA, I am a Bergen Resident myself, Ho-Ho-Kus, how bout you?
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Catskills - 01/28/03 05:26 PM

A little closer to home. (photo credit - FollowTheLead)
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Catskills - 01/28/03 05:39 PM

Dude ... nice photo ....


But keep those heels down!
Posted by: d-elvis

Re: Catskills - 01/28/03 06:09 PM

Vipers and crampons with leather straps. The new and the old. You are so hooked.
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: Catskills - 01/28/03 07:25 PM

You said it. Why, I'm as giddy as a retiree with a coed on his lap.

Posted by: cori

Re: Catskills - 01/28/03 08:38 PM

Are you wearing pink tights under that? I did not recognise you at first.
Posted by: GeeVee

Re: Catskills - 01/28/03 08:51 PM

I think he borrowed Phil's pink thong - if you look carefully you'll see that there's no VPL.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: VT Photo Du Jour - 01/29/03 05:07 AM

TobyStegman at the summit of Camels Hump....THe sea of clouds is where Burlington and lake champlain would be...The mountains in the distnace are the dacks.

Peace,

John
Posted by: empicard

Re: VT Photo Du Jour - 01/29/03 02:50 PM

that is a great shot!
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: VT Photo Du Jour - 01/29/03 04:07 PM

Good work, John did you get a scanner? Kate is getting her pictures from the trip back today. So there has to be some good ones!

Toby
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: VT Photo Du Jour - 01/29/03 07:36 PM

Nice shot. Maybe sized a wee too big, but great none-the-less.

I had relatives in Montpelier when I was growing up and my family took many trips up there. Had always wanted to climb Camel's Hump.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: VT Photo Du Jour - 02/03/03 03:25 AM

If you are really board there is a whole mess of j tree photos of mine click here

Toby
Posted by: Layback

Re: VT Photo Du Jour - 02/04/03 03:43 PM

Beautiful shot of Camel's Hump. Here's another one. Not quite as nice though.
Posted by: Layback

Re: VT Photo Du Jour - 02/04/03 03:46 PM

Here's a shot from Sunset Ridge on Mt. Mansfield.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: VT Photo Du Jour - 02/04/03 10:51 PM

Sunrse on Mount Mansfield taken from the Taft Lodge....

john


**Photoshop helped on this shot....
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: VT Photo Du Jour - 02/04/03 10:54 PM

Shot of me watching the same sunrise thats in the last shot, from the taft lodge.....taken a 3 years ago??? by toby.

john
Posted by: Dizzy

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 01:45 PM

OK, I think I might have figured out how to do this. Here's one of my shots from the trip to Tuolumne this past September.

Peace,
Dizz
Posted by: Dizzy

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 01:46 PM

And another.

Peace,
Dizz
Posted by: Dizzy

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 01:47 PM

And one more.
Posted by: Dizzy

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 01:49 PM

And not a climbing area per se, but nearby.

Peace,
Dizz
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 03:14 PM

Sweet!

GO
Posted by: Julie

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 04:56 PM

Amazing shots, Liz!
Posted by: andrew

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 05:13 PM

Sunrise at Ranu Raraku on Easter Island with a silhouette of one of the statues.

Posted by: Dizzy

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 06:26 PM

Hopefully this one comes out OK.

Dizz
Posted by: irisharehere

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 06:51 PM

Awesome sunsets Diz - got to get me out to J-Tree some day!!!

IRISH

D'oh - Tuolomne, not J-Tree. It's been that kind of day.........
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 07:08 PM

Yes, wonderful photos ... especially the first one.

But Irish, you ain't gonna see anything like that in JTree. Those photos were shot up at Toulumne.

I can't wait to get back up there. Chazman ... when are we meeting up in the valley again?
Posted by: Dizzy

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 07:19 PM

Hiking out from a day of cragging at Murphy Creek.

Peace,
Dizz
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 07:23 PM

Well ... if sunsets are the theme ...

Here's mighty Mount Lukens (highest point in Los Angeles) at a whopping 4200ft ... caught in a clear sunset .. which is pretty rare in the LA basin.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 07:24 PM

A photo from hiking out along Sandy Neck, Cape Cod.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 07:25 PM

Ah yes, Dizzy. Murphy's Creek.

I can hear the mosquitos!
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 07:27 PM

One last one for the day ....

Panoramic shot from the summit of Mt. Champlain.

Acadia National Park.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: VT Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 07:29 PM

John ... I love that shot. But where's your cup of coffee???

Posted by: Bolt_Skytop

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 07:54 PM

Nice pictures!
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 07:58 PM

From the Needles in South Dakota. I think this is called Eye of the Needle.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 08:04 PM

Another from same route
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 08:05 PM

Aguille d'Joshua Tree. Took me two tries to get the guts to stand on top.
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 08:06 PM

Nice shorts!
Posted by: andrew

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 09:36 PM

its called the needles eye, and it is a good and scary tick. i think rg@ofmc actually did the first ascent of it.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 11:14 PM

The southeast face of Aconcagua, showing Piedra Bandera and the Polish Glacier. Taken from the approach to base camp at Plaza Argentina.

Gwen
Posted by: andrew

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 11:15 PM

east glacier and polish glacier from the carry up to camp 1.

you were with the AAI group guided by andy and julia, right gwen? we must have passed each other 4 or 5 times on the approach and never met.
Posted by: rg@ofmc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/05/03 11:32 PM

its called the needles eye, and it is a good and scary tick. i think rg@ofmc actually did the first ascent of it.

First ascent by Needle's standards, which require a free climb. The summit was first attained in 1953 using a line of 14 bolts on the West face (the bolted line has since been climbed free at 5.11-).

Don Storjohann and I made the first (free) ascent in (gasp) 1964. It was very very scary (of course we had no idea how hard it would be) and we each went up and carefully climbed down many times. Eventually, in a display of either superior boldness or inferior intelligence, I lead all the way to the top.
Posted by: chip

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/06/03 02:23 AM

I'm trying to convince my family to head out to Yosemite/Tuolomne this summer. Thank you for the pictures, they help.
Posted by: Chas

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/06/03 02:07 PM

And Gwen, since your there, would you have a picture of the South Face.
Posted by: andrew

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/06/03 04:11 PM

The South Face is a completely different approach than the Vacas valley leading to the Polish, and you can only see bits of it. You get an unbelievable view of it on the flight from Santiago to Mendoza if you are on the north side of the airplane. Wish I would have had my camera with me on the plane.
Posted by: Chas

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/06/03 04:34 PM

I know that but it seems like Gwen is up in the area pretty often, and it is an impressive face.... begging to be photographed
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/06/03 06:12 PM

A most impressive lead! I remember being rather puckered the whole time.
Posted by: Judge11

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/06/03 08:05 PM

I'll second that.
I remember standing at the base two summers ago, looking up and saying to myself...."No f------n' way".
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/06/03 09:27 PM

Yeah, I said that, too. Then my wife said, "Go on honey, I'll take your picture and all the locals started to laugh. I had one of them belay, and I should have offered him a helmet, because of all the crap I was ready to drop. I climbed there for 5 days,and that was back when I was a Gunks local, not the sissy sandstone rat I am now. It still freaked me out.
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/06/03 09:48 PM

Great Sand Dunes National Monument
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/06/03 09:50 PM

Bierstadt with Greys and Torreys beyond
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/07/03 12:06 AM

Andrew, yes I was with the AAI group. Who were you with?

Gwen
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/07/03 12:15 AM

Re: picture of the South Face of Aconcagua.

You are both right. Andrew, who said that you don't see the South Face on the approach through the Vacas and Relinchos valleys. But, Chas, I do live near there. I got a nice shot of the South Face on a hike to the top of the Las Penitentes ski area.

However...I can't get the computer to cooperate and "save for web." The file is just too huge to attach. Perhaps tomorrow. Sigh.

Gwen
Posted by: chazman

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/07/03 01:36 AM

Some choss pile out west
Posted by: chazman

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/07/03 01:38 AM

Serenity Crack (from a long way out)
Posted by: chazman

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/07/03 01:41 AM

Catskills this past weekend
Posted by: Chas

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/07/03 12:44 PM

I strongly agree, just a chosspile, which really should have no attraction for anyone
Posted by: andrew

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/07/03 04:11 PM

hey gwen,

i was climbing in a pair with avery from colorado, and we started the same time that you did though got ahead moving above basecamp. i ended up getting pulmonary edema though, so i didn't go above camp 1 unfortunately.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/07/03 07:25 PM

Hey look, Chaz ... our route is almost in the shade!
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/07/03 08:18 PM

Serenity Crack - really close up.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/07/03 08:19 PM

Bastille Crack - Eldorado Canyon. My partner had a pigeion fly out of a hole right in front of his face and skim his head while leading the next pitch.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/07/03 08:20 PM

The Beauty of Comic Book at J Tree. Note the wienie pro out to the side of the offwidth start.
Posted by: Chas

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/07/03 08:43 PM

Nice photo of Serenity Crack. Did you check out the fun little .11b crack to the left of it (Adrenaline)?
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/07/03 09:23 PM

When I was there, that route was covered with blood, because some dude took the big dirt nap on it the day before we climbed. I chose to wait until another day.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/07/03 11:17 PM

Andrew

Sorry to hear about the edema. Did you get it treated in a hospital? I chatted with Avery quite a bit at high camp and then again at base camp.

here's the south face, taken from the top of the Penitentes ski area.

Gwen
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/10/03 05:56 PM

There has been some recent discussion about Mt. Woodson. Here is a photo of Elsa's Crack, 5.7. Be prepared for some ridiculous 80's garb!
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/10/03 07:46 PM

Hey .. you wanna see some ridiculous 80s garb?

Check out this old cover of Climbing magazine.

(one of my favorite photos of all time ... but that lycra!!!)
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/10/03 08:07 PM

Yeah, I have that issue, still. I seriously coveted those tights!
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/10/03 10:03 PM

Thats a great cover for climbing magazine, definately very dated but the climb looks amazing and super stout...where is that??

John
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/10/03 10:25 PM

Alright. Having perused the photos collected within, and in the spirit of sharing and community (or boredom... or just fishing for compliments... or something), I submit the following four pictures from a wide range of climbing sub-disciplines. Having not posted photos online before, I've hopefully got the image resolution/file size at a useable level.

Picture 1: Mike on Hung Jury, Valdez, Alaska
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/10/03 10:26 PM

Photo 2: Jeff buldering in Colorado.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/10/03 10:27 PM

Photo 3: Me at the Tunnel, New Mexico
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/10/03 10:35 PM

Photo 4: And finally, a peak up at the headwaters to the East Fork Toklat glacier, Denali NP. The slog up the glacier was the crux of the climb. The ridge was good fun. Didn't climb it on this particular sunny day. Came back to do it in a total whiteout.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/10/03 11:41 PM

The peak on the right is El Altar (the altar), a 5200m peak to the east of, and visible from, Santiago. The glaciated peak on the left is La Paloma (the dove), a 4910m peak also visible from Santiago. I took this picture Saturday from Cerro Manchon, a 3500m peak between Santiago and El Altar.

Gwen
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/10/03 11:44 PM

The Climbing cover shot is Jim Waugh on Ma'adim 5.11c, Reef of Rocks, Mt. Lemmon, AZ. Photographer: Peter Noebels.

It's a wonderful shot that really shows off a beautiful line. So few magazine covers have captured a route as well as that one does.

Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/11/03 12:41 AM

Photo 3: Me at the Tunnel, New Mexico
Man Thats some nasty drop knee you have going on.....I think my leg would break off if I did that high of a drop knee.....

I absolutely agree Lester, thanks for that Info!

John
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/11/03 01:42 AM

It honestly doesnt look like he has anything holding him onto the wall.....I mean his feet are smearing and it looks like hes on a bad sloper...man does that look tough.
Posted by: chazman

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/11/03 01:56 AM

80's? How about some vintage 50's wear. An early ascent of Foops.
Posted by: chrisinvermont

Summer Fun on Lake George - 02/11/03 02:41 AM

Here is a shot on Roger's Rock this past July. It was one of those high 90 degree days with oppresive humidity. Man was it nice to canoe out, take a swim, climb the rock, take a swim and canoe back.
Posted by: cfa

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/11/03 03:38 AM

Wow, I love that 50s Sports Illustrated cover! Where'd you get your hands on that?
Posted by: rg@ofmc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/11/03 05:34 AM

I guess its a sad commentary on the loss of climbing access to Skytop that McCarthy aiding Foops in '58 now shows up in the Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour. I can remember when Foops was actually in the Gunks...
Posted by: chazman

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/11/03 01:17 PM

rg: yeah, I knew it didn't belong in the thread but I posted anyway following the magazine cover theme Les had put up. In hind sight... you have a good point, I guess it really is a "non-Gunk's" photo
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/11/03 05:17 PM

Looks like you're famous

http://aai.cc/newsletter_index.asp
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/11/03 11:17 PM

Strat

"Infamous" is probably closer to the truth. I read the newsletter also, and it didn't sound much like the climb I was on.

I only heard about one death while I was on the mountain (a Spanish guy, of pulmonary edema, tried to self-evacuate), and seven cases of severe frostbite (will lose digits).

It was a pretty bad storm; exposed a large number of people as "in over their heads." We saw a tent get blown away--went sailing off the ridge--at high camp. How could you set up a tent in 50 mph winds and NOT put something heavy on the tent floor when you spread it out? The whole tent body--poles and all, everything except the fly--went sailing.

Gwen
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/12/03 12:46 AM

I love that shot of McCarthy. He looks like a mad scientist, doesn't he???

Re: Skytop. Keep the faith. Someday ... someday ...
Posted by: Layback

Re: You want cracks - pick one! - 02/12/03 02:32 PM

Mt Hood - Palmer Glacier Route.
Posted by: nerdom

Speaking of cracks . . . - 02/12/03 08:45 PM

Anybody wanna guess where this one sits?
Posted by: GeeVee

Re: Speaking of cracks . . . - 02/12/03 09:06 PM

Anybody wanna guess where this one sits?

Ed note: Isn't there an h in sits?

Looks not unlike the crapper at the Octavio Alvarez hut on Orizaba. You were able to use it? When I was there someone had thoughtfully left a stick next to it so you could beat down the pile a little before adding your own offering. Most everyone just went behind a rock.

Nice view of the sunrise from the throne though.
Posted by: andrew

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/13/03 05:05 AM

I ran into Burton and Marcos on the way out. They were both feeling much better by the time they got back to La Lena.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Speaking of cracks . . . - 02/13/03 07:29 PM

You guessed it GV!

BTW, the difference between the Orizaba hut (and crapper) and those in Ecuador is stunning -- the Ecuadoran huts are amazing.
Posted by: andrew

Re: Speaking of cracks . . . - 02/13/03 10:51 PM

*some* of the huts in Ecuador are amazing. go check out the Illiniza's hut sometime. absolutely the most awful "toilet" i have ever experienced, and it made the hut on ixta look spacious and comfortable.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Speaking of cracks . . . - 02/14/03 03:00 PM

Oh! I would have, except when we drove out to do Illiniza, the road was completely washed out by a mudslide!

The huts I did stay in were on Cayambe and Cotopaxi. both were luxurious by any mountaineer's standards (admittedly, I've never been to any in Europe).
Posted by: GeeVee

Re: Speaking of cracks . . . - 02/14/03 04:30 PM

Do the Ecuadoran huts have hot and cold running vermin like the one on Orizaba? I like cute furry animals and all, but not running over my head in the wee small hours when I've got an altitude-induced headache.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Speaking of cracks . . . - 02/14/03 07:27 PM

Didn't hear or see a single one. And they have flushing toilets, real gas-stove kitchens w/ running water. They're fantastic! (except that, because they're so nice and so accesible, many yahoo Ecuadorians hike up there to spend the weekend partying, which can suck if you're hoping to get some sleep before the big day!).
Posted by: chip

Re: Speaking of cracks . . . - 02/15/03 12:52 AM

Sounds like some of the Swiss huts I was in. The drunk Germans would finally stop singing just about the time we would have to get up. The worst was to find a drunk one in the toilet who wouldn't leave and was too loaded to make the traverse back in to the hut by himself anyway.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Speaking of cracks . . . - 02/20/03 12:01 AM

The drunk Germans sounds a lot like the Iliniza hut last year. We had tents with us, and weren't smart enough to set them up outside where we could sleep in peace and quiet.

On a brighter note, here is the mountain we climbed this past weekend. We climbed Cerro Mirador del Morado, which is in the foreground. The two peaks in the background are the south and north peaks of Cerro Morado. BTW, the south peak )the left in this photo) is 5.10 rock, bad and poorly protected, according to reports, and known as the "Eiger of Chile."

Trailhead is about two hours from my house.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Speaking of cracks . . . - 02/20/03 12:04 AM

....and here is the crevasse that stymied us 200m short of the summit.
Posted by: Frank Florence

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/20/03 04:02 AM

Closer to home, here's an old photo of the first winter ascent of the N face of Mt Borah, ID. Note the Zero axe/alpine hammer combination.
Posted by: Alex

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/20/03 05:54 AM

A 1971 ascent of Horrendous Traverse at Seneca Rocks
Posted by: yorick

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/20/03 12:38 PM

horrendous traverse, but styling head-gear!...
Posted by: MarcC

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/20/03 04:51 PM

I didn't know Freddie Kruger was climbing at Seneca back then!
Posted by: charliebutters

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/21/03 02:35 AM

i havent laughed so hard in a while, read your post before i saw the photo.
thanks
Posted by: merlin

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/21/03 04:25 AM

a most excellent observation
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/21/03 03:25 PM

Wow this is a good thread....over 20,000 views! Good work lester!
Posted by: Layback

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/21/03 04:44 PM

Could be the best post this site has ever seen.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/21/03 04:52 PM

Top pitch of Frogland 5.8 Red Rocks. This pitch is 5.6 and sparsely protecetd, but very fun.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/21/03 07:10 PM

Standard Route (5.6), Sandrock, AL

One of my earliest leads ever, and the only good digital climbing photo that I have. Shot on slide film, my buddy won the Atlanta Climbing Club's Annual "No Butts Please" Photo Contest a few years back with this photo.

p.s. -- the colors are much more vibrant in the actual photo (it was scanned)
Posted by: Alex

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/22/03 03:25 AM

Chasm jumping near Moab
Posted by: Alex

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/22/03 03:32 AM

Oops, try again.
Posted by: Jannette

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/24/03 12:28 AM

Holy Sh_t!
Now that's the kind of picture that would scare the living daylights out of your mother! Great shot!

Jannette
Posted by: cori

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/24/03 07:53 PM

Wow that made my hands sweat. Don't do that

But a beautiful photo.
Posted by: hartmann

Re: Speaking of cracks . . . - 02/25/03 05:30 PM

Funny. I'm in the Swiss huts all the time and I have rarely encountered drunk Germans singing until the wee hours of the morning. Drunk Germans, yes, but they have usually passed out by midnight. Here is a picture as I approach the top of a 45 m pitch in Unerboden near the Klausenpass, Switzerland.
Posted by: CaptainNoPro

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/26/03 06:11 PM

Ragnarock in Smuggler's Notch. Classic mixed and Ice climbing.

http://www.emba.uvm.edu/~smaciejo/pics/jdowdyragnarock.JPG

pic is too big for attachment
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/26/03 08:23 PM

Holy crap. I'm wetting my pants just looking at it...
Posted by: CaptainNoPro

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/26/03 09:50 PM

Here's another one for you wild.

Black dike pitch 1:
http://www.emba.uvm.edu/~smaciejo/pics/dikep1.jpg

Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/27/03 12:52 AM

Very nice! Got any clean pants?
Posted by: danskiz

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/27/03 04:34 AM

SWEET PICTURES!!
Posted by: GwenL

Way down south - 02/27/03 11:39 PM

I'm going to guess that this is the furthest south photo yet posted (unless someone has posted Antartica photos, it will be). I took this shot yesterday. Looking south from Puerto Williams, Chile (which is south of Tierra del Fuego), this range is on the island of Navarino and the is called "Dientes de Navarino").

We stopped at the airfield at Puerto Williams for fuel, on the way to the Chilean AF base at King George Island, Antartica. Weather was bad (low ceilings and visibility in snow showers) and we had to turn around, but it sure was a scenic flight.

Gwen
Posted by: chip

Re: Speaking of cracks . . . - 02/28/03 03:44 AM

very sweet. Wishing I was there, with a working set of shoulders.
Posted by: Layback

Re: You want cracks - pick one! - 03/04/03 02:06 PM

Are we all out of pictures? Let's not allow this one to die. Here's a recent pic from Avalanche Lake.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: You want cracks - pick one! - 03/04/03 05:32 PM

Brr. That looks chilly!

Did you make any snow angels?

Work has forced a break from scanning slides and negatives, but I'm hoping to get out and take NEW photos in the spring.

But for now ... as a proud papa, I have to share this one ...

My daughter's first day of climbing was yesterday.

Her comment when she reached the top of the wall:

"I wish this went higher."
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Proud Papa Pt 2 - 03/04/03 05:36 PM

Feel the burn!
Posted by: oenophore

Re: You want cracks - pick one! - 03/04/03 05:43 PM

More power to LaBlonde.
Posted by: chazman

Re: Proud Papa Pt 2 - 03/04/03 08:37 PM

Great... now I have to get Little Chazman on an accelerated V14 program to keep up with the LeBlancs.
Posted by: d-elvis

Re: You want cracks - pick one! - 03/04/03 08:56 PM

You'll need to get her an agent first, then some sponsorships - think early retirement for Dad, traveling the country to comps as her "road manager".
Posted by: chazman

Yosemite - 03/05/03 02:09 AM

Right after the "pendulum" on the Royal Arches route.
Posted by: chazman

Re: Yosemite - 03/05/03 02:10 AM

Sunnyside Jamcrack
Posted by: chazman

Re: Yosemite - 03/05/03 02:13 AM

View out coming down North Dome Gully
Posted by: Layback

Re: Yosemite - 03/05/03 01:40 PM

Wow chazman - that shot on Royal Arches is sweet!
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Yosemite - 03/05/03 05:17 PM

Hey chazman where is the sunnyside jam crack.?...I take it yosemite?.....royal arches? How hard is it?
Posted by: chazman

Re: Yosemite - 03/05/03 05:46 PM

Yes Yosemite, at the Sunnyside Bench area and I think it's 5.9 but the lower section is polished like glass. Bummer and Lazy Bum are 2 10's right next to it that are also nice. Here are the three of them
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Yosemite - 03/05/03 05:52 PM

Great photos....thanks!
Posted by: Gumby

...the legacy continues - 03/05/03 06:07 PM

Alright...i haven't been on in a while...what with school and climbing. And it took a few days...but i finally got through this whole post. So now....my offerings.

First up...me...two years ago on the 2nd pitch of No Alternative (5.6) Stone Mtn, NC. You will notice the abundance of gear in the form of me standing 50' or so up at the first and only bolt...half way between the belay and the anchor above. still one of the most mental pitches to date for me...of any grade.
-gabe
Posted by: Gumby

Re: ...the legacy continues - 03/05/03 06:13 PM

lets see what else i got here. um...foster falls...tennessee...last spring break. thats my partner JP...kinda looks like he's walkin on water.
-gabe
Posted by: Gumby

Re: ...the legacy continues - 03/05/03 06:24 PM

Alright...these are all just teasers...but i can blow all the pics in one sitting.

This one kinda explains itself. although at the time i took this...i didn't know i would dislocate my shoulder 3 days later on Durrance in the 3rd pitch. Wouldn't you know it...the damn thing relocated by itself about 10 minutes later. I still summited...but damn that was exhausting. didn't drive 3000 miles to not get on top of that bastard again....long story.

-gabe
Posted by: Gumby

Re: ...the legacy continues - 03/05/03 06:33 PM

Oops...i meant to say i CAN'T just blow through all the pics. Oh and that last one was from this past summer...august sometime.

Next is from J-tree early this January. Everyone had pretty much already posted everything that i climbed. so here is one that i found amusing...Barker Dam. Be careful of the deep end.
-gabe
Posted by: GeeVee

Re: ...the legacy continues - 03/05/03 06:37 PM

Do you still have to wait a couple of hours after a meal before your Mom will let you go in?
Posted by: Gumby

Re: ...the legacy continues - 03/05/03 06:42 PM

Alright...you twisted my arm...one more. This is from the same trip over this past christmas break. Went to Hawaii before J-tree for my big bro's wedding...sweet.

On Oahu, near Kaneohe (the east side of the island) there are these 2000' vegetated cliffs...always rains on that side. Huge landslide...millions of years ago...big geology lesson...not gonna get into it. Anyways...Coast guard ran this relay station over the mountains between Kaneohe MC base and Pearl Harbor. So they built this radar station at the top of the mountains (time before satellites). So they built a 4000+ metal step staircase going up the cliffs to get to them....dubbed...the Stairway to Heaven.

Station has been out of use for decades...and the stairs are falling apart in sections. But its a fun little adventure...especially at the vertical sections. Here's a sample of a not-so scary section.
-gabe
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Yosemite - 03/05/03 11:10 PM

Yeah, I think the upper pitch is 5.9 and the lower pitch is 5.7. That slippery polish and my aching feet made me weanie out of leading it!

The two 10s to the left are excellent to TR.

You got me jonezing for the valley again!
Posted by: chip

Re: Yosemite - 03/06/03 02:38 AM

I got to do some of the more popular routes in the Valley this last fall, including Royal Arches. It was a blast, and of course quite different. Friction, jamming, pendulums, chimneys. Lots of fun. Rated 5.7,A1 or 5.9. I did it with a fever and still loved it. The scariest part is the walk down Washington's gully with darkness moving in fast and some pretty intricate route finding down incredibly loose, dangerous terrain.Thankful to have carried one of those little LED lights on the back of my harness or it would have been a long night on the rim in a t-shirt when it went below freezing. Depending on how little pro you need or your desire to simul-climb, you can do the 1500 feet of climb in a few hours but can otherwise easily take all day.
The Jamcrack, Bishops Terrace, Snake Dike, Commitment, Nutcracker, and a bunch I don't remember are awesome routes.
Posted by: Layback

Re: Yosemite - 03/06/03 03:46 PM

Since not all of these are climbing pics, here's on from the top of the main pyramid at Chitzen Itza, in Mexico.
Posted by: Layback

Re: Yosemite - 03/06/03 06:35 PM

Here's one from the top of Mt. Washington on a clear January day.
Posted by: Layback

Re: Yosemite - 03/06/03 06:39 PM

Adams Glacier Route on Mt. Adams, Washington State.
Posted by: nerdom

Pico de Orizaba - 03/06/03 07:09 PM

My friend Scott on the lower Jamapa Glacier. Look closely over his shoulder (on the left) and you'll see the faint outline of Popo, and the volcanic ash plume extending from it, heading left in the picture as it gets caught in the jet stream. It was an amazing site, and looked much closer in person.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Pico de Orizaba - 03/06/03 07:12 PM

The summit of Orizaba. How all the metal shit got up here is beyond me, but it made securing Tibetan prayer flags on the summit quite convenient.
Posted by: strat

Another Cascades Scene... - 03/06/03 07:30 PM

"Sanitary" "facilities" just under the Coleman Glacier on Mt Baker
Posted by: strat

Re: Another Cascades Scene... - 03/06/03 07:57 PM

If the sky was blue (like it just bairly is on the left), then this photo would be terrific. But, hey, it's the cascades, if I wanted blue sky I'd go to the tetons....
Posted by: strat

Re: Speaking of which... - 03/06/03 07:59 PM

There seems to be a reason it's called Irene's ARETE
Posted by: strat

Re: Ok, one more - 03/06/03 08:01 PM

Posted by: Dizzy

Re: Another Cascades Scene... - 03/06/03 08:04 PM

ed. note: barely

Now going,
Dizz
Posted by: strat

Would you like some Teewinot with your breakfast? - 03/06/03 08:07 PM

Morning from Jenny Lake campsite #3
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

In the beginning ... - 03/06/03 09:46 PM

Here's some contrast for all these wonderful outdoor shots.

This is a photo of the grand opening of the CCC gym in NYC. Late 1989 I believe.

Notice there was originally only one wall on the north side. The wall is not yet surfaced and we had a small number of original Entreprise holds.

You can see the original hardwood flooring of the handball court.

To the far right, notice the odd design of a "chimney." This was built so that climbers could have an easy way to climb up and set top-ropes!
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: In the beginning ... - 03/06/03 09:50 PM

Here's the gym two years later.

This was taken during the gym's first ever competition.

The climber is on the newest part of the gym to be built at the time.

The old north wall is seen in the background. You can see the surfacing peeling off in spots. It got a whole new make-over (resurfacing and redesign) when the cave and adjacent wall was installed (the slab and chimney was removed).
Posted by: GwenL

Aconcagua - 03/06/03 11:22 PM

Here's a picture from Camp 2 on the Polish/False Polish route, about 19,300 feet. Looking to the south at climbers making their way up.
Posted by: oenophore

Re: Aconcagua - 03/06/03 11:22 PM

Bad URL.
Posted by: nerdom

Whitesides - 03/07/03 02:25 PM

About midway up the Original Route (5.11 A0), Whitesides Mountain, Cashiers, NC.
Posted by: chazman

Re: In the beginning ... - 03/07/03 06:47 PM

The best thing about that gym was the "locker room" and getting changed with all the transients showering for the month.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: In the beginning ... - 03/07/03 06:52 PM

Dude ... you never EVER change there!

Posted by: GeeVee

Re: In the beginning ... - 03/07/03 07:06 PM

Well... it might be a life-changing experience if you did.
Posted by: chazman

Re: In the beginning ... - 03/07/03 07:17 PM

5 below, wind whiping through the city, you're dressed full winter gear and that manky little room has the heat pumping in. Don't lie... you've used that locker room to throw on a pair of shorts and a tee before. If I remember correctly you pointed my wife towards the womens locker room.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Aconcagua - 03/07/03 11:48 PM

I'll try it again. Sigh. This is a view from camp 2 on Aconcagua, about 19,300, down the up trail.

Gwen
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Aconcagua - 03/07/03 11:50 PM

And one more picture looking from Camp 2 down the Relinchos valley.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Aconcagua - 03/07/03 11:55 PM

One final picture tonite. This is looking up from camp 2 to the start of the traverse of the Falso de los Polacos. You can see the trail in the snow going from center of the photo up and slightly right. The set of rocks on the skyline near the center of this photo are where the Independencia hut is located.

Gwen
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: In the beginning ... - 03/11/03 06:12 PM

Hey, I never said I didn't use the woman's locker room.

But seriously, I always used to show up with my climbing attire on underneath my street clothes.
Posted by: CaptainNoPro

Hidden Gully in Smuggler's Notch - 03/11/03 10:47 PM

From last saturday still looking fat :

http://www.emba.uvm.edu/~smaciejo/pics/secondpitch.jpg

2003 : The year of the never ending ice season. Actually things are starting to show wear and tear from the long days up in the notch.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Hidden Gully in Smuggler's Notch - 03/12/03 02:20 AM

nice pictures man.......damn it makes even ME wanna start climbing ice up here.....

john
Posted by: Chas

Stairway to Heaven - 03/12/03 12:47 PM

Stairway to Heaven, in Provo Canyon, Utah in which my Partner in Climb, Hugo and I did about two weeks ago in anorexic conditions, (the climb not me)
Posted by: CaptainNoPro

Willoughby - 03/13/03 06:32 PM

Willoughby last week:

http://www.emba.uvm.edu/~smaciejo/pics/Jeremylead.jpg

And to think that this was once called the practice slab at lake willoughby.....
Posted by: Dizzy

Re: Willoughby - 03/13/03 06:50 PM

We old timers still call them that with tongue firmly in cheek and to make ourselves feel better. Given that nearly everything up there is pretty hard, a grade 3+ feels like practice! This section is listed as The Tablets now.

Now going,
Dizz
Posted by: Chas

Re: Willoughby - 03/14/03 03:07 PM

CptnNP, I'm jealous, most of the ice I've been on this year has been anorexic at best with the thickest thing I've been on is the stuff I was on when I was on a business trip and I hooked up with Neri and climbed in the Catskills.
Posted by: GwenL

Cerro Plomo - 03/18/03 12:05 AM

Here's a photo of me on the summit of Cerro El Plomo, 5424 meters, about 25 miles east of Santiago. You can see Aconcagua in the background. Perfect day--no wind, no cloud, warm and nice. We climbed El Plomo this weekend. It's a great winter ascent also, as one can then ski down the glacier (rather than trudge down the scree).

Gwen
Posted by: Dominic

J-Tree - 03/18/03 08:10 AM

My first (obviously! ) trip to Jtree. Spring 2001
Also my first real climbing road trip. mmmmm J-Tree.
Posted by: GwenL

Cerro San Gabriel - 03/20/03 10:15 PM

Here's a photo of the granite south wall of Cerro San Gabriel, just north of a small village of the same name, in the Cajon del Maipo. About 90 minutes from northern Santiago, and about a one hour approach hike over talus. 400m, and about 10 pitches of fine granite. Routes from 5.7 to 5.12. No guidebook, no topos, but you can find a few bolts and/or slings at belay stations.

We climbed here a few weeks ago, had a few route-finding issues, but the rock and route were spectacular when we found our way.

Gwen
Posted by: GymClimbingPoser

Re: Cerro San Gabriel - 03/22/03 06:11 AM

What a small world... I was hiking through that canyon last week on Spring Break. I was down there on a field trip with the Environmental Science Dept. I brought my shoes and did some bouldering but didn't have a partner to do anything like that, it must've been fun. If I figure out how to post pictures, I have some andean boulering pics.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Cerro San Gabriel - 03/23/03 12:50 AM

Well, call next time!

Gwen
Posted by: Anonymous

New River Gorge - 03/23/03 02:49 PM

Well I just spent a few days at the New........ here is Exoduster 5.10b
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: New River Gorge - 03/23/03 02:52 PM

Total-E-Clips 5.8
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: New River Gorge - 03/23/03 02:52 PM

To get down to the cliffs there you have to take ladders...there were a few interesting ones!
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: New River Gorge - 03/23/03 02:54 PM

Well its better when I attach the picture!
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: New River Gorge - 03/23/03 02:55 PM

and another......
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: New River Gorge - 03/23/03 02:56 PM

Okay one more ............ the money shot
Posted by: Anonymous

Keep on going! - 03/25/03 06:01 PM

Long live the Non gunks photo du jour......the tetons. Im on the left, my girlfriend Kate in the middle, and Connor on the left, who is now in south africa doing missionary work.
Posted by: hartmann

Re: Keep on going! - 03/31/03 06:33 PM

I'll keep the tread going with this pic from Les Calenques, in southern France. This was my climbing partner Doug on the approach to the climbs we were doing. I just finished the Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt. I'll have some pictures from that trip shortly.
Posted by: hartmann

Re: Keep on going! - 03/31/03 06:40 PM

Another picture from Les Calenques. Me at the top of a pitch.
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: Keep on going! - 03/31/03 07:14 PM

C'mon, you can do better than that...I've heard about those French women at the crags. Let's see some pictures of THEM!
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Keep on going! - 03/31/03 07:34 PM

Please do not post pictures of anything French, unless it's Jacques Chirac at the wrong end of a gun.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Keep on going! - 03/31/03 07:55 PM

Well, at least the mountains were there before the Frogs, and they will be there long after them.
Posted by: strat

Re: Keep on going! - 03/31/03 08:01 PM

Does the center square of Chamonix count as the "crags"? Nice belly
Posted by: strat

Re: Keep on going! - 03/31/03 08:28 PM

There is probably a woman somewhere on the line in front of me (who is about to start the Midi-Plan traverse or in my case, the "let's walk down to col du plan, run out of gas, and walk back up the Aguilles du Midi )
Posted by: strat

Name this route... - 04/04/03 02:33 PM

Anyone? Anyone? (except for Mike Rawdon)
Posted by: irisharehere

Re: Name this route... - 04/04/03 03:30 PM

Trap Dyke?
Posted by: strat

Re: Name this route... - 04/04/03 03:32 PM

No, this is the trap dike
Posted by: irisharehere

Re: Name this route... - 04/04/03 04:14 PM

yummy!
Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Name this route... - 04/04/03 04:55 PM

chouinards or kaaterskil
Posted by: strat

Re: Name this route... - 04/04/03 05:39 PM

bzzzzzt
This is Chouinard's. I don't have a pick of Kaaterskills but it ain't it.
Posted by: Dominic

Re: Name this route... - 04/04/03 05:55 PM

Wait! WAit! i think i got it.

Adirondike! Just left of trapdike.
Posted by: strat

Re: Name this route... - 04/04/03 05:59 PM

Ding Ding Ding
A Winner
Posted by: GeeVee

Re: Name this route... - 04/04/03 06:09 PM

Give the man a star...
Posted by: ryanclan

Re: Name this route... - 04/04/03 11:05 PM

From my most very recent trip....a section of this Park that I hadn't seen before and is very deceptively NOT like any other part of the Park.

It was sure damn cold in that shade!

Kathy
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Adirondike - 04/05/03 12:47 AM

I think this is the same route under, shall we say, less attractive conditions:

http://www.neice.com/Festivales/DacksFest2002/DSCN8908.jpg
Posted by: strat

Re: Adirondike - 04/05/03 01:08 AM

Au contraire, that is the first pitch of Roaring Brook, last season.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Back on the Rock - 04/10/03 06:37 PM

Ant Line 5.11d Horse Flats, CA
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Back on the Rock - 04/14/03 06:31 PM

From a recent hike ...

Sunset Ridge at 4700 ft. To the right is sprawl of the San Gabriel Valley.

Recently discovered elaborate and deep fire pits dug up along the west summits of the ridge line. Very disturbing as the whole Angeles National Forest was entirely closed due to fires last fall -- fires started by people making illegal camp fires.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Back on the Rock - 04/14/03 06:36 PM

A real moldy oldie photo. My first climb at Otter Cliffs, Acadia ... and my second time on a rope. The rap in had young Lester all stressed and puckered. What if I couldn't climb the 5.6 corner to get back out??? Oh golly!
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Back on the Rock - 04/14/03 06:38 PM

Back in the sun ...

A climber swings out of the cave on Urban Struggle 5.12b The Grotto, Malibu Creek State Park.
Posted by: chazman

Re: Back on the Rock - 04/14/03 06:43 PM

Did your belayer wash out to sea?
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Back on the Rock - 04/14/03 07:36 PM

Belayer is the one who took the photo. After, he scurried back to the edge and took up the slack.
Posted by: chazman

Re: Back on the Rock - 04/14/03 07:52 PM

and I climb with you? Remind me to look over my shoulder next time to see if you are still even around or off rummiging through your pack or taking pictures.
Posted by: GwenL

Central Andes granite - 04/14/03 11:57 PM

Here's where I spent the day yesterday. 400m wall of good granite, 8 pitches of 5.7/5.8. Approach is about an hour, and the trailhead is about 90 minutes from Santiago.

For scale, you can see my partner in the lower left quarter of the picture. Route goes up the crack system slightly left of center, to the cypress tree.

Gwen
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Central Andes granite - 04/15/03 01:47 AM

Sweeeeeeet.

Looks like nice alpine granite. Lots of good-looking lines. I like the water streak to the right and the big arching dihedral up in the high orange rock.
Posted by: GwenL

More climbing in the Andes - 04/19/03 01:20 AM

Here's a picture looking side on to "Placa Roja." The climb goes up the left hand ridge line on the red fin. Eight pitches of 5.6-5.8, with bolts and chains at the belays (quite rare here). The trail head is about two hours from Santiago, with a 30 minute approach hike.

Gwen
Posted by: GwenL

Re: More climbing in the Andes - 04/19/03 01:22 AM

Here's a view from Placa Roja, looking down, from about the sixth pitch. Note the road and vehicle.

Gwen
Posted by: GwenL

Re: More climbing in the Andes - 04/19/03 01:29 AM

One more shot--looking up on pitch number five on Placa Roja. We climbed this today. Starting to get a little cool in the mountains (it's fall here), and this climb starts at 6000 feet. Beautiful day.

Gwen
Posted by: hartmann

Re: More climbing in Switzerland - 04/22/03 08:26 PM

From my adventures on the Haute Route last month, a picture of us on the summit of Tete de Valpelline with the Matterhorn behind us on the left and Dent d['Herens on the right. I'm the on the left of our group. I hope to have the pictures from the trip on my web site in the next few weeks.

Opps!!! Forgot to change the Subject line.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: More climbing in the Andes - 04/22/03 11:56 PM

Nice pictures! Looking at the subject line, though, I have to remark, "those Andes sure moved a ways east since I looked." And I see them every day.

Gwen
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: More climbing in the Andes - 04/24/03 07:20 PM

The guy down the street from me keeps his dog tied up next to an old shopping cart in his front yard. The dog digs holes in the lawn and shits all over the sidewalk. I see that everyday. Where did I go wrong?
Posted by: jj221

Re: Central Andes granite - 04/24/03 07:54 PM

Holy mother lode! How do I get to this place?
Posted by: Chas

Re: More climbing in the Andes - 04/24/03 08:54 PM

Hey Gwen, Placa Roja looks a lot like the Sierras, hmmm... are you really in Argentina....hmmmm....
Posted by: GwenL

Re: More climbing in the Andes - 04/25/03 12:58 AM

Actually, the mountain range is between me and Argentina. So, no, I'm not really in Argentina.

We're planning to go climb Placa Roja again Saturday, then Sunday I'll be hiking a nearby 5000m peak. Trailhead for that one is about 90 minutes from my house. Trying to wring as much as we can out of the last nice weather of fall. Can't wait for the ice climbing, which should start in the higher areas (3500m) in June.

Gwen
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Central Andes granite - 04/25/03 10:48 PM

jj221 asked:
Holy mother lode! How do I get to this place?

American, Delta, or Lan Chile, generally. Otherwise, it's a very very long walk.

Gwen
Posted by: CrackBoy

Catskills Ice - 04/28/03 03:10 AM

Some ice shots for those of you in withdrawl
Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Catskills Ice - 04/28/03 03:11 AM

another
Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Catskills Ice - 04/28/03 03:13 AM

more
Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Catskills Ice - 04/28/03 03:16 AM

a couple more
Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Catskills Ice - 04/28/03 03:20 AM

a little washed out but it scanned really dark..

Posted by: Anonymous

adirondack rock - 04/28/03 03:33 AM

heres a shot of Toby at the top of "bobs knob" during our speed ascent...ha...ha....ha....earlier today.....

john

toby looks kinda funny cause i used some lighting effects to brighten him a bit.
Posted by: Anonymous

Vermont at its finest! - 04/29/03 01:15 AM

Here is Johnny on Jugalicious, the biggest 5.7 sandbag around. 5.8+ seems right!

Enjoying the warm weather after a brutal winter,

Toby
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Vermont at its finest! - 04/29/03 02:42 AM

wow looks like im on one of those VT classics....maybe captainnopro was right....hahhahahha

John livin in choss world
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

California -- not at its best -- but not at its worst - 04/29/03 07:22 PM

A nice rest on Hot Lips 5.12a -- Malibu Creek.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: California -- not at its best -- but not at its worst - 04/29/03 07:24 PM

Another shot of Hot Lips -- showing the reason one needs the leg-in-the-hueco rest.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: California -- not at its best -- but not at its worst - 04/29/03 07:25 PM

Another pockety climb in the Malibu Creek area ... this one a little more moderate ...

Johnny Can't Lead 5.10a
Posted by: CaptainNoPro

Re: Vermont at its finest! - 04/29/03 10:16 PM

Toby it probably was 5.7 - until half the handholds broke off!! What cliff is that by the way? I've never been there.

Have you been to the carcass and the Pit crags yet?
Posted by: Anonymous

Vermont at its finest! - 04/30/03 10:40 PM

Speak of the carcass.....just visited it today with Jeremy and a few other folks. Heres Pete K. (the guy that climbed preditor in Uncommon Ground) on a 5.12.

Toby
Posted by: Woot

Re: Out West. - 05/06/03 01:12 AM

My first offering to NGPDJ. Name this peak.
Posted by: MarcC

Re: Out West. - 05/06/03 01:31 AM

Eichorn Pinnacle. On a ridge of Cathedral Peak, Tuolumne Meadows, CA.

Nice photo.
Posted by: Woot

Re: Out West. - 05/06/03 02:41 AM

Nice job MarcC, and quick!
Here's another one...

My partner Bob is on lead. Great climb!
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: Out West. - 05/06/03 12:54 PM

Definitely Lovers Leap, and the shadows suggest he's still behind the trees, and the ground appears to slope up to the right so you are high enough to get this view...ergo...Surrealistic Pillar?
Posted by: Woot

Re: Out West. - 05/06/03 02:11 PM

Mike, Close! Yes, it's Lover's Leap, CA. The route is The Groove (5.6). The first pitch is an ultra-classic moderate, IMO. Another shot taken on-route...
Posted by: Chas

Re: Out West. - 05/06/03 03:14 PM

ok, can anyone guess where this is (hint: several photo's have been posted from climbs right next to this one recently)
Posted by: GwenL

Down South - 05/06/03 11:25 PM

This could be a "climbing" picture someday. I don't think these faces have ever been climbed. I saw them it last weekend, backpacking in a fairly remote area of the pre-cordillera of the Andes. Trailhead was about three and a half hours south of Santiago. Approach looks tough but the faces sure looked vertical.

Gwen
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Out West. - 05/07/03 09:50 PM

Well ... I'll take a stab.

Meat Grinder on the Cookie Cliff?
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Out West. - 05/08/03 02:08 PM

looks like wingate sandstone to me..........somewhere in Moab, Indian creek?
Posted by: Chas

Re: Out West. - 05/08/03 02:10 PM

Good choice but wrong state.

Have to apologize about the photo (haven't figured out yet how to get a photo with high clarity with that few bytes)- if you look closely te rock is sandstone.
Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Out West. - 05/08/03 04:52 PM

could it be Red Zingerat red rocks?
Posted by: Chas

Re: Out West. - 05/08/03 05:21 PM

I see that Crackboy has a better memory then I do,
shist, I have to go take my Geritol
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Out West. - 05/08/03 07:34 PM

I thought it looked it a little sandstoney ... but the hint threw me.

Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Out West. - 05/08/03 07:41 PM

actually, i just deciphered your photo's file name

rrrz figured Red Zinger was posted before and it fit..

unless its something obvious i had climbed on or seen often i would never remember a climb from a picture like that
Posted by: GwenL

Projects for next spring - 05/12/03 11:56 PM

Austral spring, that is.

In the center is Volcan San Jose, 5900m, usually a three to four day trip. To the left, and a bit in the background, is Cerro Marmelejo, at 6100m the furthest south 6000m peak in the world. Usually a five or six day trip.

Took this picture during a hike this past Saturday. The fall has been remarkably dry.

Gwen
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Projects for next spring - 05/13/03 12:03 AM

More projects. From left to right. The peak with the hanging glacier leading to the top is Cerro San Francisco, 4700m, a one day hike (from the north side, which is the opposite side of this view). Next to the right is Cerro Morado, Pared Sur (south wall), and north summit, 4700m. A three or four day climb. Pared Sur is serious mixed climbing, the north summit is steep colouirs and glaciers. Next to the right is Cerro Meson Alto, 5200m and three to four days. The brown peak in the right foreground is Cerro Union, at 4200m a one day hike. Further to the right is Cerro Arenas, which has a 1500' sheer face on the other side with several rock climbing routes.

Gwen
Posted by: GwenL

Anyone interested in climbing here? - 05/25/03 11:31 PM

This is a shot of Salto de la Leona, which is in the national park Seite Tazas, about three hours south of Santiago. I went backpacking here a few weeks ago.

The park ranger told me that he'd seen people rappel the waterfall, but never climb it.

Gwen
Posted by: daryl512

Re: Anyone interested in climbing here? - 05/26/03 04:20 AM

Kinda hard to tell for sure (maybe some of our resident Gunks.com geologists could help) but to me it looks like shale, bad for climbing unless you're one of those people that are into extreme sports

Daryl
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Anyone interested in climbing here? - 05/26/03 10:58 PM

It's supposed to be basalt. Here's a picture of the area just upstream, where the river has carved basins in the basalt.

Gwen
Posted by: daryl512

Re: Anyone interested in climbing here? - 05/27/03 01:19 AM

looks like a great place to spend a few days!

Daryl
Posted by: andrew

Black Canyon - 05/27/03 06:19 PM

Two climbers on Leisure Climb 5.9 in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Taken from pitch 5 of Maiden Voyage across the Cruise Gully.
Posted by: GeeVee

Re: Black Canyon - 05/27/03 10:23 PM

Does one have to (somehow) descend into the canyon then climb your way out?
Posted by: andrew

Re: Black Canyon - 05/27/03 10:30 PM

yup, and that sucks. to get to these climbs, you go down the cruise gully which isn't awful. two rappels, lots of scrambling, and not even a horrendous amount of poison ivy until you get past the checkerboard wall. going further down the cruise gully or down the SOB gully is a heinous poison ivy and tickfest - bring a machete for the poison ivy. its no picnic getting off anything but the north chasm view wall either - maiden voyage required a really unpleasant bushwhack and 4th class thornbush covered gully climbing to get back to the rim. yeehaw. it sure ain't the gunks.
Posted by: CrackBoy

Re: Black Canyon - 05/27/03 10:30 PM

i think it depends on the wall you are climbing. the new climbing has an article about one of the walls there. you had to rap in for that one, but i think others you don't have to

edited to add, i was wrong. just what i speculated from what i read. sue me
Posted by: andrew

Re: Black Canyon - 05/27/03 10:35 PM

the wall you rap for is this one, south chasm view. this wall is heinous - the easiest route is a really long serious 5.11 that a guy broke his back on while i was there. really impressive rangers - they hauled him 700 feet to the rim. the wall is about 2000' high, and you have to rap all of that to get to the base. bailing is epic - you have to somehow get across the river(the tyrolean is in place now i believe), ascend one of the poison ivy gullys, and hitch a ride 40 miles back to the south rim.
Posted by: chazman

Re: Black Canyon - 05/27/03 11:13 PM

Regarding post #83280 - 05/27/03 06:35 PM (12.160.32.118) photo from Andrew (I guess this is how we now let others know who we are replying to)

In a word... WOW! Amazing.
Posted by: strat

Sumthin different - 06/09/03 05:58 PM

On the trail to Vanderwacker Mtn in the central ADK on mem day weekend. The black flies ate the color off the photo
Posted by: Smike

Re: Sumthin different - 06/09/03 08:50 PM

some been going a little wild, he just discovered photoshop
Posted by: strat

Green Should be Renamed "Adirondacks" - 06/16/03 01:10 PM

Dix as viewed from the 1999 forest fire area on Noonmark Mtn
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Green Should be Renamed "Adirondacks" - 06/16/03 05:46 PM

are those rock slabs????
Posted by: RAF

Re: Green Should be Renamed "Adirondacks" - 06/16/03 06:17 PM

Mr. Nerdom, those are indeed rock slabs. There are lots of them all over the Adirondacks. They are formed when a lot of rain falls in a small area in a short period of time. The ground becomes super-saturated right down to the underlying bedrock, which is mere inches away beneath the surface, and trees, vines, dirt, and unfortunate hikers/climbers slide away downhill, hence the name "slides." Usually they are caused by intense thunderstorms, but Hurricane Floyd did a stellar job in 1999 of causing new slides and scouring off some old ones. SInce global warming is supposed to result in more extremes in weather, conditions are good for future slide formation.
Posted by: Layback

Re: Green Should be Renamed "Adirondacks" - 06/16/03 08:08 PM

I believe they are the Mt. Colden slides, no?
Posted by: strat

Re: Green Should be Renamed "Adirondacks" - 06/16/03 08:10 PM

Bzzzzzt.

That is Dix Peak (as mentioned in my original posting of the photo)
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Green Should be Renamed "Adirondacks" - 06/17/03 02:00 AM

The 5th slide from the right- the middle slide of that trio of slides that almost reaches the crest of the ridgeline - try it. It's freakin' intense. Views, exposure, and lots of steep rock. Ooohhh....

God I love slide climbing...
Posted by: GwenL

Who knows where this rock is? - 06/17/03 02:25 AM

Well, I guess this isn't really a climbing area, but I thought folks might be interested. First thought that came to my mind when I saw this cliff was, "wonder if you can climb here?" The answer is, "people climbed here up until (probably) the 1600s, and it's prohibited now because the area is both a national park and world heritage site."

Hint: see if you can figure out the rock blocks in the foreground. And, no, you can't boulder on them!

Hint: the cliff is the side of a volcanic crater.

Gwen
Posted by: Chas

Re: Who knows where this rock is? - 06/17/03 12:37 PM

isn't one of those boulders where the famous climb "The Nose" is located. See ANYONE could do THAT one in a day (if the local police don't drag you away).
Posted by: andrew

Re: Who knows where this rock is? - 06/17/03 01:33 PM

I did a little bouldering there at Ovaje, though it was sharp and chossy.

Here is my favorite picture I took there. I absolutely loved Easter Island.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Who knows where this rock is? - 06/17/03 11:56 PM

What a great picture! Here's one of my favorites. Pretty interesting place. We did hike to the top of the highest point on the island--a crater rim at 507m.

My first picture was of the "nursery," the side of the volcanic crater from which the moai were carved.

Gwen
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Who knows where this rock is? - 06/18/03 09:48 PM

Hey, how about this cool wall! I'm planning on rap bolting a dozen or so lines on it!

Think the NPS will mind?

Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

When the sun refuses to shine ... - 06/18/03 09:49 PM

... take pictures of clouds.

A stormy day in Acadia.
Posted by: JoeKayak

Re: When the sun refuses to shine ... - 06/19/03 01:39 PM

Quote:

... take pictures of clouds.

A stormy day in Acadia.




I'll be there in 10 days!! And I'll be bringing my digital camera ....and my ripped up shoulder and my still fucked up A1 pulley

And Jeff Butterfeilds amazing guidebook (and a bottle of advil to wash the tequila down!).

Thank's for the primer, Lester. You da man.

And last weekend's canoe, bike, run adventure in Elvis's backyard of Pine Creek, Penna; the Grand Canyon of PA as the sun burned off morning fog....

Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: When the sun refuses to shine ... - 06/20/03 09:13 PM

When you get up to Acadia ... if there's rain or you need a rest day ... don't forget to hit the Precipice Trail.

Iron rungs up the final 200 foot headwall!
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: When the sun refuses to shine ... - 06/20/03 09:19 PM

For Julie ...

If you get up to Taqhuitz this weekend ...

A grand double butt shot! Climber directly above the hanging belay leading the crux of On the Road 10c. Climber on the left is pulling the crux hang on Coffin Nail 5.7.

Posted by: MarcC

Re: When the sun refuses to shine ... - 06/20/03 09:24 PM

Quote:

... don't forget to hit the Precipice Trail.

Iron rungs up the final 200 foot headwall!




Precipice is a spectacular trail! About the closest we have in the northeast to a Via Ferrata or Kletterstieg (sp?). But to be fair, lest anyone get overly amped, it's not a continuous 200' of rungs - more like a 15' ladder, then an exposed traverse like the one in the photo, then a 25' ladder, another traverse, etc.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: When the sun refuses to shine ... - 06/20/03 09:57 PM

But to be fair, lest anyone get overly amped, it's not a continuous 200' of rungs - more like a 15' ladder, then an exposed traverse like the one in the photo, then a 25' ladder, another traverse, etc.

That's very true. Didn't mean to give a false impression.

But, dang, there's plenty 'o exposure!

There are also a few other trails with ladder sections on them. I think the hiking on the granite domes up there is one of the best things about going to Acadia. Almost better than the climbing.

Definitely not better than a route say like ... Old Town!

Posted by: Coppertone

Re: When the sun refuses to shine ... - 06/20/03 11:54 PM

If you want some iron rungs and exposure at acadia try the Behive Trail. You can also go up the Bubbles and there are some trails there with iron rungs that are kind of dangling in the middle of some routes. There are also tons of great exposed trails on the east side of the island that get very little traffic.
Posted by: JoeKayak

Re: When the sun refuses to shine ... - 06/23/03 03:31 AM



I think the precipice trail is already closed for the peregrine falcons (april to august I think), but I'll try it out.

The beehive is also a top list item I've heard.

Thanks, Marc, Ctone, and Lester. I'm getting pumped for my trip and will have some good pics to share when I get back.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: When the sun refuses to shine ... - 06/23/03 08:18 AM

The Beehive is fun. But I didn't think it was as wild or exposed as some descriptions had made out. I think the Precipice is the most continuously exposed trail on the island. But it does get closed during the peregrine season.

Another nearby hike that I think is better than the Beehive is the Dorr Mtn Ladder Trail. It goes straight up Dorr's steep east side with many stone steps and ladder sections. And the summit provides possibly the best view of that entire side of the island. Champlain Mtn (where the Precipice is) is just across a narrow valley and beyond it the whole expanse of Frenchman's Bay and looming behind you is Cadillac Mtn.
Posted by: Coppertone

Re: When the sun refuses to shine ... - 06/23/03 01:24 PM

One warning about the Dorr Mtn. trail is that it was probably the most strenuous hike on the island. The continuous stairs are relentless and a bit repetative. Once you top out Dorr though it is great hike down the backside into an interesting gulley and the up to the top of Caddilac.
Posted by: JoeKayak

Re: When the sun refuses to shine ... - 06/23/03 01:58 PM

Quote:

One warning about the Dorr Mtn. trail is that it was probably the most strenuous hike on the island




Sounds good. Though I can't imagine anything harder than Haystack from Panther gorge with a fully loaded backpack after a hard rain. Damn that's one bitch of a trail.
Posted by: Coppertone

Re: When the sun refuses to shine ... - 06/23/03 02:11 PM

That is true, but backpacking is backpacking and Acadia is vacation and relaxation. One trail that might worse that Panther Gorge to Little Haystack is the Rainbow Trail in the Whites from the Wild River Valley to the Carter Dome. Brutal long uphill, did it with a full pack took too many hours, then came out of the trees to a bear summit greeted by 70mph frozen mist. Hard to believe since it was 80 and sunny when we started out in the valley.
Posted by: Julie

Re: When the sun refuses to shine ... - 06/23/03 05:20 PM

Thanks!

We saw ... exactly that, yesterday, walking back around.

The cloud layer was right up to Idyllwild - raining actively in Hemet and all the way up the windy roads. Looking pretty pessimistic, actually ... turned the corner into Idyllwild, and -bam! Blue sky. Climbing *right* above the clouds.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: When the sun refuses to shine ... - 06/23/03 08:07 PM

Coppertone:

The Dorr Mtn/Cadillac Mtn hook up is a nice one!

Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 06/28/03 09:04 PM

As a warm-up for the Tetons, I decided I better hit some long, steep hikes. Yesterday was the big test. Mt. Baldy via the south ridge. 6.4 miles up with an elevation gain of 5800ft.

Here's my buddy Scott crossing an area called "The Narrows" at about 9000ft.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 06/28/03 09:07 PM

A more expansive view of The Narrows.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 06/28/03 11:06 PM

Lester

When will you be in the Tetons? I'll be there in mid-July. Probably with 500 of my closest friends!

Gwen
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 06/29/03 06:38 AM

Gwen,

I'm there with my family the second week. I'll be climbing the 11th and 12th.

I take it you've spent a lot time in the Tetons. Or there's a "Gwen's Friends" convention in town.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 06/29/03 10:43 PM

Lester

I'll probably miss you then, as we arrive the 18th.

Never seen the Tetons in person, except from 40k feet up.

My reference to "500 of my closest friends" meant "I'm sure it'll be crowded with me and the whole world there at the same time." Nada mas.

However, at the same time, 5 or 6 climbing friends from the DC area (my old stomping grounds) will be there at the same time--an unplanned coincidence.

Gwen
Posted by: Judge11

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 06/29/03 10:59 PM

Don't know where you're staying, but the Gros Ventre camp grounds are awesome. At dusk, listen for the coyotes and at dawn, the moose will be wandering throught the camp sites, plus great views of the entire Teton range.

Man...wish I was goin'
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 06/30/03 12:51 AM

While in the valley, we are staying at the AAC climbers' ranch.

It's 18 hours of travel (overnight) to Jackson Hole from where I live, sure it'll be worth it.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 06/30/03 08:22 AM

Actually we'll be out in the Gross Ventre area at the Goosewing Ranch.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/03/03 06:56 AM

Another Mt. Baldy outing.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/03/03 06:58 AM

I came down a different trail and found these!
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/03/03 07:01 AM

Unfortunately ... they're on the top of this boulder. The routes on the left and in the back look decent (albeit short). But not something you seriously consider hiking 5 miles and 4000ft of elevation for.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/03/03 07:03 AM

Although the location has a lot going for it. The boulder field has a nice view of the summit headwall.
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/07/03 05:47 PM

Can anyone name this place?
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/07/03 05:52 PM

A fisherman on the Hudson near North Creek, NY...

Posted by: Jim Lawyer

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/07/03 08:39 PM

Moss Cliff?
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/07/03 08:41 PM

Give the man a cigar.....
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/17/03 10:14 PM

Some more photos from the Grand ...

Looking up from the Lower Saddle. The lower Exum ridge right at the shadow/light dividing line.

Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/17/03 10:15 PM

Hanging out after dinner at the Exum hut at the Lower Saddle.

Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/17/03 10:16 PM

John Bragg at the summit.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/17/03 10:17 PM

At the summit ... looking south at the Middle Teton.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/18/03 06:31 AM

A better shot of the finish of pitch 5 - Irene's.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/18/03 06:56 AM

Looking east down Garnet Canyon from the top of Irene's.
Posted by: chazman

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/18/03 05:17 PM

Quote:

Hanging out after dinner at the Exum hut at the Lower Saddle.



Where's the mini bar and T1 hookup for the laptop? I still have problems believeing LL made this trip.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/18/03 05:28 PM

Dude, you don't know the half of it.

Yes, I had the tent in the photo all to myself. I guess the Teton's version of a suite at the Fairmont. But at midnight, the wind started blowing in from Idaho like a freight train. I got two hours sleep that night.

While me and the family were out at a local guest ranch (local meaning 15 miles out on a dirt road) we had nothing but two beds in a log cabin. One phone for the entire place. And no cell phone signal!!!

It's was actually quite nice being so completely out of touch for once.
Posted by: Dizzy

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/18/03 05:43 PM

Quote:

It's was actually quite nice being so completely out of touch for once.




What do you mean "for once"?

Now going,
Dizz
Posted by: crackers

Re: Lester Off Line - 07/18/03 05:57 PM

he means he's never going to do it again...
Posted by: chazman

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/18/03 05:57 PM

Quote:

What do you mean "for once"?
Now going, Dizz



The price of being a mover and a shaker in Hollywood
Posted by: Chas

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/18/03 07:41 PM

Dizzy;

When you say "out of touch for once?" are you questioning things like outdated sense of fashion, music,.....?
Posted by: Dizzy

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/18/03 07:49 PM

chas,
EXACTLY!!!!!

Now going,
Dizz
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/18/03 08:05 PM

Oh Diz ...

If I could only be more out of touch than I already am ....



But between raising a 7 year old girl and working in LaLaLand, it's a lot harder than one would think!

Posted by: CaptainNoPro

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/19/03 09:11 PM

One from last spring - April 15 in huntington Ravine!
http://www.emba.uvm.edu/~smaciejo/pics/pingull.jpg
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/21/03 05:27 PM

Teewinot -- from South Jenny Lake.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/21/03 05:34 PM

Middle Teton from Garnet Canyon.
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/21/03 06:33 PM

Teewinot from Jenny Lake Campsite #3. Hell of a breakfest view...
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 07/22/03 06:58 AM

Well if we're on a Teewinot roll ...

Another shot at sunrise, but from a cheap panoramic disposable. It just frames a small, wide area on a 35mm negative and then has to be blown up.

Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 08/03/03 12:13 AM

Yet another Teewinot picture. This one from the backside--from the summit of the Grand.

Gwen
Posted by: GwenL

It's ice season down here - 08/10/03 12:53 AM

On the right is a waterfall we climbed today. The base is at about 3000m. 10 minutes from the car, and the "trailhead" is in the Cajon del Maipo, about 2 1/2 hours from my house.

Gwen
Posted by: Smike

Re: It's ice season down here - 08/11/03 12:30 PM

Ice in the Summer.... oh how I hate you
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Some Tetons pics - 08/12/03 03:21 PM

Here comes a few, but I've yet to get the good ones from my photog buddy. This is the bear we saw on the Garnet Canyon trail.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Some Tetons pics - 08/12/03 03:22 PM

My friend Scott leading P2 of Irene's Arete.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Some Tetons pics - 08/12/03 03:23 PM

Shot of the Middle Teton, with me belaying P3 in the foreground.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Some Tetons pics - 08/12/03 03:28 PM

Scott topping out on P3.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Some Tetons pics - 08/12/03 03:31 PM

Looking out at the Enclosure from the cramped chimney belay atop P1 of the Wittich Crack variation to the Owen-Spalding route.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Some Tetons pics - 08/12/03 03:34 PM

Doug topping out P1 of the Wittich Crack.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Some Tetons pics - 08/12/03 03:36 PM

Doug on the Catwalk, atop P2 of the Wittich Crack.
Posted by: Fraser

Re: Some Tetons pics - 08/12/03 06:07 PM

Great pics and awesome TR. Sounds like an experience you'll never forget. The weather systems out west are definitely a force to contend with.

Fraser
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Some Tetons pics - 08/12/03 08:22 PM

Hey! I saw that same bear when I was there!


Great pics! Look forward to more!
Posted by: GwenL

A climbing area from a different perspective - 08/13/03 01:34 AM

I did climb this peak, though nearly 2 1/2 years ago. I took this picture this morning, from the third airplane (in a four-ship). This is Volcan Villarrica, in the Lake District of southern Chile. It's a very popular climb and also has a ski area on the western slopes. This picture taken from the east, looking west. Yes, it's active.

Gwen
Posted by: nerdom

Re: A climbing area from a different perspective - 08/13/03 12:16 PM

gwenL, nice pic! What's the altitude of the peak?
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: A climbing area from a different perspective - 08/13/03 08:17 PM

So Gwen ... are you really a Chilean Air Force pilot?

Or do you really live in Iowa and in your spare time you create fake photos of mountains?


Posted by: JoeKayak

Re: A climbing area from a different perspective - 08/13/03 08:57 PM

Quote:

So Gwen ... are you really a Chilean Air Force pilot?

Or do you really live in Iowa and in your spare time you create fake photos of mountains?







Or...how much did your cesna skywagon buckle when the F-1??s buzzed you?
Posted by: GwenL

Re: A climbing area from a different perspective - 08/13/03 11:08 PM

Quote:

So Gwen ... are you really a Chilean Air Force pilot?

Or do you really live in Iowa and in your spare time you create fake photos of mountains?




Quote:

Or...how much did your cesna skywagon buckle when the F-1??s buzzed you?






Well, no, no, I wasn't in a Cessna and those aren't F-1s.

I'm a USAF pilot, work at our embassy in Chile, and got a flight in a Chilean AF jet.

I've been to Iowa but have never lived there.

The plane is an A-36 "Halcon," a Spanish designed fighter/trainer (Casa 101) produced under lisence by the Chilean national aircraft industry ENAER. I was in number three of a four-ship formation. I asked the pilots of lead and two to fly in fingertip formation while we flew to the side to get the photo.

Volcan Villarrica is 2840m.

Gwen
Posted by: empicard

Re: A climbing area from a different perspective - 08/14/03 12:59 AM

Quote:

I'm a USAF pilot, work at our embassy in Chile, and got a flight in a Chilean AF jet.




wow, i vote gwen for coolest job of the day.
Posted by: scottie_c

Re: A climbing area from a different perspective - 08/14/03 02:11 PM

when I saw the pic, it looked kind of like a cut-and-paste with the plane, and a little photo shop magic to make the summit look like a smoking volcano...

Now, I see the light
Posted by: cori

Re: A climbing area from a different perspective - 08/14/03 02:47 PM

I second that vote. Until now, I thought I was happy with my job! Gwen, you continue to impress me!
Posted by: alicex4

Re: A climbing area from a different perspective - 08/14/03 02:50 PM

Way cool photo Gwen!
Posted by: Chas

Re: A climbing area from a different perspective - 08/14/03 05:21 PM

Gwen,

I was wondering how you could travel like that- was thinking for a while that you were a trustafarian- but now I understand.
Posted by: oenophore

Re: A climbing area from a different perspective - 08/14/03 05:34 PM

GwenL, I'm almost surprised that you aren't asked, "How can I get to be a military attaché?"
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: A climbing area from a different perspective - 08/14/03 08:29 PM

I'm a USAF pilot, work at our embassy in Chile


i.e. you really work for the CIA?


Posted by: Judge11

Re: A climbing area from a different perspective - 08/14/03 10:34 PM

Uh oh, Nick...
If your posts stop, the answer was yes.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: A climbing area from a different perspective - 08/14/03 10:46 PM

Quote:

i.e. you really work for the CIA?




i.e., in a word, "no."

I'm the Air Attache. I work for the ambassador. And here's the real nice part of this job. He's a climber, too. Came here as a hiker, we're turning him into a mountaineer.

Gwen
Posted by: GwenL

Re: A climbing area from a different perspective - 08/14/03 10:51 PM

Quote:


GwenL, I'm almost surprised that you aren't asked, "How can I get to be a military attaché?"




I am, often. Step one, you gotta be in the military. And it's generally fairly senior officers, lieutenant colonels and colonels. There's a possible downside, also. We have attaches just about everywhere, and that includes some pretty dismal places. Ever thought of taking your family to Albania? or Pakistan? Or living in Afghanistan? Rwanda? Mali?

Gwen
Posted by: GwenL

Re: It's ice season down here - 08/16/03 01:13 AM

Went ice climbing again today. Took this picture from inside the waterfall.

Gwen
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: It's ice season down here - 08/16/03 01:31 AM

Now THAT looks Photoshopped!

Great pic, but you're killing us with these ice shots, while it's 92 F up here.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: help! - 08/18/03 06:29 PM

got some spectacular shots from my Tetons trip. unfortunately, I can't post them because they are (considerably) larger than 100,000 bytes (or whatever the damn limit is). They range from 184K to 600+K. They are slides that were scanned in on a slide scanner. Anyone have any advice on how to reconfigure them to make them post-able?
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: help! - 08/18/03 07:20 PM

Quote:

got some spectacular shots from my Tetons trip. unfortunately, I can't post them because they are (considerably) larger than 100,000 bytes (or whatever the damn limit is). They range from 184K to 600+K. They are slides that were scanned in on a slide scanner. Anyone have any advice on how to reconfigure them to make them post-able?




Les,

Do you have access to any photo editing software? Most PCs these days come with some sort of photo editing software already loaded. Also, many slide scanners come with software that should have the ability to resize the image as well. Did you do the scanning ... or your friend? You could ask the friend for smaller files sizes ... or ....

Usually you can easily resize any image file with even basic photo editing software. I use Photoshop Elements which is the 100 buck version of Photoshop. It retains about 90 percent of the features from the full version and is more user-friendly.

Bascially, no matter what type of software you are using, you open the image and then check Help to find how to resize the image. You can often reduce the number of pixels per inch as well to reduce the file size ... and then when you save the new, smaller file you can often select the amount of jpeg compression you want. (More compression, lower quality, but smaller file size.)

Photoshop Elements will keep track of the file size at each step.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: help! - 08/18/03 07:50 PM

okay, thanks to all for the advice. The only way I've figured to do it os through Corel Presentations, which gets the files to a manageable size, but I'm unable to control the dimensions, i.e. the images are slightly compressed on the vertical plane, making everything look a little squished. I'll post one or two and see what happens.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: DSB, Mt. Moran - 08/19/03 01:46 PM

Thanks to computer-wiz strat, who magically shrunk my files from several hundred thousand bytes to a mere 36K or so!

This is me a couple of moves into the A1 (5.12a) 10th pitch of the Direct South Buttress on Mt. Moran.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: DSB, Mt. Moran - 08/19/03 01:47 PM

This one is me near the finish of the A1 pitch, just before I was able to make free moves.

p.s. -- hopefully I can shrink some more. incidentally, these are scanned slides taken by my friend Scott; I'm looking forward to seeing the originals.
Posted by: Fraser

Re: DSB, Mt. Moran - 08/19/03 02:55 PM

Great pics. Did you bring ladders with you or did you just girth hitch a few slings together? How about daisies and a fifi hook? Just curious.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: DSB, Mt. Moran - 08/19/03 03:14 PM

nah, just used my girthed daisey and a girthed runner on my harness, and hung long slings to step into. It was pretty damn cool -- the exposure was breathtaking!
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Okay, here come a bunch more - 08/19/03 03:36 PM

I figured out a backdoor way to do this! I uploaded the photos to ofoto.com, which converts the files automatically, then clicked on each modified picture and e-mailed it back to myself! ta-da!

This is the canoe approach to Mt. Moran.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Okay, here come a bunch more - 08/19/03 03:37 PM

Standing atop the thin flake on the DSB.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Okay, here come a bunch more - 08/19/03 03:47 PM

Climbing the difficult moves to the pendulum bolts (follow the red rope) on the DSB's famous Double Pendulum pitch. The red rope goes through the runners at the second pendulum.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Okay, here come a bunch more - 08/19/03 03:49 PM

The final belay at the end of the fantastic finishing Hand Traverse pitch on the DSB. That's the "bowl" behind me. The grove of trees in the background (about 200 yards away) is where we spent a long, thirsty night.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Okay, here come a bunch more - 08/19/03 03:50 PM

Irene's Arete as viewed from Petzoldt's Caves.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Okay, here come a bunch more - 08/19/03 03:52 PM

Me on P3 of Irene's Arete.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Okay, here come a bunch more - 08/19/03 03:54 PM

Leading out on P4 of Irene's Arete.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Okay, here come a bunch more - 08/19/03 03:56 PM

Atop Irene's, after the 5.10a final pitch. Recall from my TR that we had waited out a storm to finish this pitch. Behind me you can the second storm cell moving in rapidly. The epic began not long after.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Okay, here come a bunch more - 08/19/03 03:58 PM

The crux section (5.10a) of The Snaz in Death Canyon.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Okay, here come a bunch more - 08/19/03 03:59 PM

The 4th class finishing slabs atop The Snaz.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Okay, here come a bunch more - 08/19/03 04:18 PM

Great photos Nerdom. What does the way you did the DSB go at? 5.9 A1?

Toby
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Okay, here come a bunch more - 08/20/03 01:23 PM

Yes, depending on who's guidebook you read (I think one rates the "scary, no pro" move at 5.8, the other calls it 5.9). It felt like all of 5.9. We also did the 5.9 variation to the third pitch.
Posted by: cori

Re: Okay, here come a bunch more - 08/20/03 02:21 PM

Beautiful photos - nerdom - thanks for sharing - and for strat who 'made it all possible'.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Okay, here come a bunch more - 08/20/03 08:13 PM

Les-

Great stuff!

You should seriously think about investing in some photo software!
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 08/21/03 12:33 AM

kool
Posted by: OffTheEdge

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 08/23/03 11:11 PM

Doing a bit of cave climbing in Acadia's Schooner Head
Posted by: GwenL

Tucson area - 08/27/03 01:22 AM

Unfortunately, the climbing areas on/around Mt Lemmon were closed due to the fires. They opened up the highway up into the mountains for the first time this past week. Since I couldn't climb (I was in Tucson for only a week), I went hiking. Here is a view from the summit of Mt Wrightson, a 9500 ft peak south of Tucson, looking north. It's always neat to climb from the desert up through deciduous forests up to piney woods.

Gwen
Posted by: Anonymous

yosemite valley - 08/28/03 05:32 AM

hopefully this picture wont be too distorted. Got myself a new printer/scanner jobber.

Pitch one of After Six, the wasps attacked me about 20-30ft higher. Great climb and a fun day!

john
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: yosemite valley - 08/28/03 05:40 AM

On Dinner ledge TobyStegman and George enjoyed fine cuisine,Dinty Moore and King Cobra.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: yosemite valley - 08/28/03 05:45 AM

Looking at the Prow on Washington Column.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: yosemite valley - 08/28/03 05:56 AM

Royal Arches, Washington Column and Half Dome on another beautiful day.

The Royal Arches route ascends the section of cliff (on the right) that is littered with trees, a beautiful 16 pitch 5.7
.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: yosemite valley - 08/28/03 06:01 AM

taking life easy at camp 4
Posted by: empicard

Re: yosemite valley - 08/28/03 01:17 PM

nice bibs.
Posted by: strat

Back to the 'Dacks - 09/02/03 04:45 PM

From Bald Peak towards Vermont
Posted by: cori

Re: yosemite valley - 09/02/03 06:53 PM

JohhnyB - I saw you guys on COPS the other night. I recognised y'all by the shirtless fashion.

Actually I am exceedingly jealous!
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: yosemite valley - 09/02/03 08:45 PM

Wish I was there... fond momories from last year. Nice Pics!!! JohnnyB..... did you make it to IT?
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: yosemite valley - 09/02/03 09:40 PM

yeah the valley is gorgeous....already waiting for the day when I can head back to dirtbag it for another month or so..........Nah Dayton I didnt make it to IT, too busy climbing this summer, sounds like it was a blast.
Posted by: cori

Re: yosemite valley - 09/03/03 03:26 PM

gorgeous! Thanks for sharing
Posted by: Fraser

Re: yosemite valley - 09/05/03 11:29 PM

more valley pics - me on the Lost Arrow last week
Posted by: Fraser

Re: yosemite valley - 09/05/03 11:35 PM

On Dolt Tower
Posted by: Fraser

Re: yosemite valley - 09/05/03 11:37 PM

On El Cap Tower - our high point.
Posted by: Fraser

Re: yosemite valley - 09/05/03 11:41 PM

Ok so I'm bailing but this is a great picture anyway!
Posted by: Fraser

Re: yosemite valley - 09/05/03 11:45 PM

Half Dome from Curry Village in the morning
Posted by: Chooch

Re: yosemite valley - 09/06/03 12:05 AM

Why'd ya bail?
Posted by: jtuscanes

long island - 09/08/03 12:12 PM

how bout' some of this. sunday morning dawn patrol.
Posted by: Retn2Rock

Re: yosemite valley - 09/08/03 09:36 PM

Read the trip report! Really worth it!
-C
Posted by: GwenL

Backcountry skiing in the Andes - 09/12/03 01:41 AM

Took this shot a week ago, skiing behind the Valle Nevado ski area, which is about an hour from my house. We were at about 3300m.

The peak is Cerro El Plomo, 5424m. I climbed this in March, pretty amazing hike. You can just make out the outline of a the trail through the dark dirt area in the right third of the photo. As the trail switchbacks up the dirt/rock area and then cuts to the left (on the photo), you can see the area where the trail tops out on the rock and transitions to snow. This is at about 5100m, where an Inca mummy child sacrifice was found in the 50s.

Hoping to climb this one in the winter and ski down the glacier face (on the left of the photo). Hasn't been enough snow to do that this winter, the face is totally ice. Maybe next winter.

You can see this peak from Santiago.

Gwen
Posted by: GwenL

Nice line, don't you think? - 09/13/03 11:47 PM

We set out today to climb the very narrow colouir just to the right of the summit. Started at 0300, near full moon, nice hard snow/ice and fairly cool. However, we got to the bottom of the colouir (kind of where the ramp to the left of the summit and our line join) and the snow was knee-deep powder on top of icy hard snow. The colouir is up to 60 degrees, and was full of this snow. Both of us thought "slab" (well, my partner is Chilean so he probably thought some other word) and we quickly retreated. We'll try again in late October, when the powder is gone and the snow in the colouir is nice and firm. It stays in shadow all day long, so it usually stays in until late spring.

The summit is Punta Negra, at about 4100m.

Gwen
Posted by: chip

Re: Nice line, don't you think? - 09/14/03 02:13 AM

You rock Gwen. I have no idea what you have for rock down there but am blown away by the alpine. Keep it coming.
Posted by: empicard

Re: Nice line, don't you think? - 09/15/03 01:11 PM

Gwen, why must you torture us?
Posted by: Chas

Re: Nice line, don't you think? - 09/15/03 02:04 PM

Gwen,

What is the couloir up and to the right of the photo.

How is the ice climbing down there. My wife and I are talking about ice climbing and tele-skiing down in Chile/Argentina next summer (our summer your winter) for about a month.

Any good links (outside of your own photos)
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Nice line, don't you think? - 09/16/03 12:09 AM

Chas

The colouir up and to the right is the one I'm trying to describe, I think. The narrower canaleta that goes from low right to upper left, and ends below and to the right of the summit. More of a spring or summer objective.

Links about climbing in Chile:

Chile Climbing Page
Andes Handbook

The first is a climbing site, with info about mountaineering, ice, rock, etc. Also has lots of other links, including some links to Argentine sites. The second is a reference of many of the local peaks, hiking, skiing, and climbing.

There's some good ice climbing; I've attached a picture of a classic climb in a valley near hear. Trailhead about an hour from Santiago, then a five hour hike/ski to a valley surrounded by waterfalls. Best of all, you might be sharing this with two or three parties on an extremely busy day. Usually you are the only people there.

I've never seen a tele skier here! But I know several that randonee in the backcountry, usually as a method to get to/from a climb. Small population.

Gwen
Posted by: andrew

Re: Nice line, don't you think? - 09/16/03 08:14 PM

hey chas,

ameghino - the mountain next to aconcagua, has some of the most stunning ice i have ever seen, though way too hard for me to think about. looks like 1000'+ WI5-6 type routes. i have no idea if they have been climbed or not, but they really are stunning.
Posted by: mtselman

Just back from Bolivia - 09/19/03 08:05 PM

Pequeno Alpamayo (elevation 5,410m/17,750-ft.)
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Just back from Bolivia - 09/22/03 05:34 PM

a nearly identical shot of this mountain is in the Climbing Classics (or one of those) calendar. Saw it this weekend in Rock & Snow. Nice pic.
Posted by: Daniel

Grand Teton - 09/23/03 02:21 PM

Weather knocked out most of my Teton climbing plans two weeks ago, but I did have a great day hike to Lake Solitude (north fork, Upper Cascade Canyon). Had this spectacular view of Grand Teton and Mt. Owen (Teewinot on the far left) for about an hour on the way down.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Grand Teton - 09/24/03 10:24 PM

Beautiful mountain. Here's a picture I took in July in the early morning light.

Gwen
Posted by: cori

Re: Just back from Bolivia - 09/26/03 08:51 PM

One of the neat things about the Pequeno Alpamayo photo is that it seems like you can 'see' your footprints.
Posted by: Chas

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/02/03 03:52 PM

Finishing the crux pitch on the Rostrum/ Yosemite
Posted by: Chas

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/02/03 04:27 PM

And my climbing partner on a very physical pitch of the Rostrum. Its a long pitch (I can be seen belaying in the lower corner).
Posted by: oenophore

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/02/03 04:29 PM

Superb. This is magazine quality stuff!
Posted by: Dizzy

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/02/03 04:45 PM

Who's the shooter?

Now going,
Dizz
Posted by: Chas

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/02/03 04:51 PM

The shooter was a guy from the party ahead of us. Guys were really ballsey, they were solid .10 climbers but breaking into the .11s, so they went and jumped on it (its .11c with 3 pitches of .11). They did really well, took some spectarular whippers, were pretty slow, couldn't finish the last pitch which we did for them (in the dark), bought us beer and we all went home laughing (or was it drunk).
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/02/03 07:47 PM

Awesome shots!

but they'd be better (and easier) to look at if you resized them a bit smaller ... 100K at that size makes them really pixelated.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/07/03 09:30 PM

Tower Crack 5.7 Ragged Mountain CT

jb
Posted by: Layback

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/08/03 12:47 PM

Tower crack? Thhat's the 5.7 on the left side above Weissner Slab, correct? That's a tough lead - nice job and good photo.
Posted by: pitfall

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/08/03 01:26 PM

'Tis almost the season. Here's a shot of p4 (or 5 depending on where you start) of buttermilk falls.
Posted by: pitfall

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/08/03 02:21 PM

Cohoes falls, it doesn't come in like this very often but when it does...OH BOY!
Posted by: Chas

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/08/03 02:24 PM

Where is it. It looks fun
Posted by: pitfall

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/08/03 02:30 PM

Buttermilk falls? Catskills.
Cohoes falls? Waterford.
Posted by: GeeVee

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/08/03 02:34 PM

Where is it. It looks fun

Presumably it's in Cohoes, which is just past Albany?

Here's a webcam of the falls without ice...

http://ny.usgs.gov/rt/pub/01357500.htm
Posted by: RangerRob

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/08/03 08:53 PM

SWE-E-E-E-T!!!

RR
Posted by: Smike

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/08/03 10:38 PM

freeze baby freeze
Posted by: tokyo bill

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 10/09/03 03:54 AM

Quanto the Mad on the 10c first pitch of Gone with the Wind in Ogawayama, Japan.
Posted by: tokyo bill

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 10/09/03 03:56 AM

QtM leading the classic three star 5.9 Ogawayama Story.
Posted by: tokyo bill

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 10/09/03 03:59 AM

Andrei the equally mad Romanian leading High Window (10b) at Ogawayama.
Posted by: tokyo bill

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 10/09/03 04:01 AM

Andrei facing up to a spooky bit on Ogawayama Street (9 or 10a, depending on which source you believe).
Posted by: Dizzy

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/09/03 12:09 PM

Quote:

Cohoes falls, it doesn't come in like this very often but when it does...OH BOY!




I was actually looking at the parts that weren't overformed and they look like fun!

Now going,
Dizz
Posted by: Chas

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 10/09/03 02:11 PM

Bill, did you put QtM on Ogawayama Lieback?
Posted by: tokyo bill

Re: Non-Gunks Non-Climbing Photo Du Jour - 10/10/03 02:19 AM

Hi Chas -

No, we didn't go up there - I actually have yet to climb that route, despite my many visits to the area. It's now high on the list, possibly for the weekend after this one. (Fingers crossed for good weather.)

A buddy of mine got on it recently on a trip that I couldn't join. Happened to forget his helmet, then popped off with the rope behind his leg, just before reaching the anchors. Ended up with a nice round shaved patch on the back of his head, decorated with a long-ass row of steel staples. Ooops.

A hard head and good luck were the only things that saved his butt, along with a blue camalot on which the impact force actually bent two of the lobes out of true.

(He made his partners climb the route before going to the ER: very hard head! )
Posted by: GwenL

Andes Spring Mountaineering - 10/13/03 10:56 PM

Well, it's spring, and Columbus Day weekend, therefore time to climb. This picture is on the way to Mirador del Morado, a 3883m peak in the Cajon del Maipo, trailhead about two hours and a half from Santiago. The peak on the right in the photo is Mirador. The peak on the left is the South Face of Morado, 18 pitches of rock at 5.10a. to 4647m.

After the trailhead, the approach is about a five hour hike up a beautiful valley, a moraine, and snowfields leading to the glacier.

Yesterday, the snow conditions were not good--very soft snow even early in the morning. But the scenery was tremendous.

Gwen
Posted by: chip

Re: Andes Spring Mountaineering - 10/17/03 12:50 AM

Swwweeeeeet.
Posted by: Chas

A look at last years ice - 10/29/03 02:52 PM

Looking for a dropped ice screw

PS: And about 15 people watched and no one wanted to help out. Go figure.

PSS: Did retrieve the ice axe that one of the guides (who was out with a client) dropped about 10 minutes earlier and was too lazy to retrieve.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: A look at last years ice - 10/29/03 10:54 PM

Gives a new meaning to "booty."

Gwen
Posted by: GwenL

Some more Andes Spring Mountaineering - 11/11/03 10:05 PM

We climbed this peak yesterday. La Paloma ("the dove") is a 4920m glaciated peak east of Santiago, and visible from the city (when smog permits). From my house, it's about an hour by car to the old mining camp of Villa Paulina in the Yerba Loca nature sanctuary, then another four hour hike to base camp at Piedra Caravajal. From there, it's a 2000 meter climb for about 7 hours to the top. The normal route takes the valley up the left side of the large cliff bands, then along the ridgeline from left to right. Another route goes up the hanging glacier to the right.

The views were spectacular yesterday--haven't seen the air this clear for a few months. We could see the Pacific Ocean, Aconcagua, and most of the central Andes in between. Sweet.

Gwen
Posted by: Layback

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 11/18/03 06:25 PM

Hiking in Sedona, AZ.
Posted by: aljul

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 11/19/03 04:31 PM

A buddy of mine on first pitch of Touchstone with Prodigal/Angel's Landing in background.
Posted by: intrepid02

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 11/20/03 04:54 AM

Aljul, that is... Wow!

Where is it?
Posted by: MarcC

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 11/20/03 07:11 AM

Zion National Park, Utah http://www.nps.gov/zion/
Posted by: aljul

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 11/20/03 03:40 PM

Yeah, as Marc said: Zion NP. Touchstone's a real nice "short" wall route--easy approach, not that difficult, but very pretty.
Posted by: Chas

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 11/20/03 03:47 PM

Aljul, that is beautiful. What does it go at?
Posted by: aljul

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 11/20/03 03:54 PM

I think most call it 5.9 C2--although it's mostly C1/C1+. Also, most of the upper pitches can be climbed free up to 5.10. It's about 8-9 pitches depending on how you split them up and the approach is less than 200 yards from the shuttle stop. Real popular aid-solo route, as well as a first-timer route to get your feet wet on Zion sandstone.
Posted by: Chas

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 11/20/03 05:21 PM

Does the C1+/C2 go free at a reasonable level (below mid-.12's?
Posted by: aljul

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 11/20/03 09:26 PM

First pitch is half bolt ladder, half C1 crack; first half of second is some C2 thru a roof and then C1 crack. Not sure if either have gone fully free but I heard someone mention approx 5.12-ish?? After that, steepness gradually lessens and the pitches basically go about .11 to .10 to .10 to .9 etc. all the way down to a couple of 5.6/7 moves on the last pitch. Real nice sandstone route with as much aid or free as any climber wants--good anchors and can easily sleep on some ledges after pitch 5 if necessary (so no porta necessary if aiding the whole thing). Can be fairly crowded however, but gets good sun late fall through early spring. Either rap the route or rap the canyon to climber's right on the way up. Right in that area there are also the other classics: Lunar X, Moonlight, Prodigal, Spaceshot, etc. Definitely worth the trip--easy drive from Vegas.
Posted by: GwenL

What I did for Thanksgiving weekend - 12/01/03 09:45 PM

...or at least part of it.

This is the final three pitches of Placa Roja, a rock fin much like Seneca Rocks. This is the route up the arete; there are also very difficult routes up the face. It's in an area called Cajon del Maipo, or Canyon of the Maipo river, about two hours from Santiago. Very scenic sourroundings--the high Andes covered with glaciers; lots of waterfalls and a rushing river below.

Gwen
Posted by: nerdom

Re: What I did for Thanksgiving weekend - 12/02/03 02:15 PM

Gwen, how many pitches total? What kind of rock is that?
Posted by: GwenL

Re: What I did for Thanksgiving weekend - 12/03/03 11:45 PM

It's eight pitches total. It's a sedimentary rock, a very compact sandstone I think (a lot like Seneca or the Gunks). Bolts/chains on the anchor/rappell stations, pretty rare for here.

Gwen
Posted by: GwenL

A little day hike in the Andes - 12/14/03 12:07 AM

Went for a day hike today. I imagine this might be the only major metropolitan area in the world where you can drive to a trailhead in a bit over an hour, and hike to a 5000m (16,300) peak. Car to car 10 hours.

Cerro Leonera is on the left (El Plomo is the glaciated peak on the right, 5424, a two day climb). The "trailhead" for both is at the top of a local ski area, at 11,300 feet. From there to the summit, it's 11 miles and 5,000 feet up. A good workout, and great acclimitization.

Gwen
Posted by: Layback

Re: A little day hike in the Andes - 12/15/03 02:07 PM

Now why can't I live there?
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: A little day hike in the Andes - 12/17/03 06:15 PM

Can't match that for sheer altitude. But I feel blessed to live in an American city where access to training hikes is quite amazing. A 10 minute car ride gets me to the Front Range trails that can be connected to create 6-9 mile hikes with elevation gain 4,000 (one way). And a 20 minute car ride takes me to the Mt. Baldy Trail which is a hump of 6.4 miles to the summit (10,000ft) with an elevation gain of almost 6,000 feet.

I'm hoping to do my first winter trip up Baldy this season. I think I'll actually have to buy some flexible crampons.
Posted by: andrew

Re: A little day hike in the Andes - 12/30/03 03:36 AM

you can in la paz, quito, bogota, almaty, bishkek, and i imagine a few other cities as well. santiago is cool though - and is the only one i can think of where you can climb a 5000m peak and surf in the same day if you are really motivated.

this is a good dirtbag belay in the desert:
Posted by: paborden

A little Spainish anyone? - 01/12/04 01:18 AM

Here's one of my favorite photos from my recent stay in Spain: my friend Yayo on Elevando Los Sentimientos, 7b+ [.12c], San Martin de Valdeiglesias, Spain. The day we spent at this granite crag was a nice break from the limestone monotony I had become accostomed to...

More to come in a TR when my website is launched in a couple weeks...
Posted by: nerdom

Re: A little Spainish anyone? - 01/12/04 03:30 PM

Great shot!

But, Holy grid-bolting, Batman!
Posted by: empicard

Re: A little Spainish anyone? - 01/12/04 03:31 PM

nice how his pants match the rock, too.
Posted by: GwenL

More summer mountaineering down south - 01/20/04 10:29 PM

This is Cerro Mohai, 4368m, in the central Andes. We climbed it Monday. The views from the top were spectacular, as the peak is surrounded by huge glaciers, rock walls, and other peaks. Most of the glaciers below 5000m in the central Andes are in pretty bad shape this year, dry and with lots of gaping crevasses and unstable snowbridges, as there was very little snow this past winter. Mohai's glacier and snowfield are the exception, and the conditions were very nice. We reached base camp after a four hour hike; parking at a trailhead that is about two hours from Santiago. The summit was a further five hours.

Gwen
Posted by: TimTheClimber

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/20/04 10:50 PM

The view from the top of the Bark-Eater Cliffs in the ADK's <attachment>
Posted by: RangerRob

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/21/04 03:07 PM

Nice peak Gwen! How was the summit? Attached is a pic of me on a classic east coast 5.8. Anyone hazard a guess?

RR
Posted by: Dan0930

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/21/04 03:55 PM

triple S at seneca.. and its a 5.7
Posted by: intrepid02

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/21/04 04:18 PM

Triple S is a 5.7 like Sixish is a 5.4 and Modern Times is a 5.8...
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/21/04 05:56 PM

speaking of which, there's a recent guidebook out there titled Select Climbs in the Northeast (or something like that), which has a short section on the Gunks. The author, with some discussion, has given Something Interesting a 5.8- rating.
Posted by: Dan0930

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/21/04 07:47 PM

Quote:

Triple S is a 5.7 like Sixish is a 5.4 and Modern Times is a 5.8...





finally some one that understands....
Posted by: RangerRob

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/21/04 09:15 PM

5.7?? You are on serious drugs if you think Triple S is a 5.7. If it were, it would be the hardest 5.7 in the world
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/21/04 09:51 PM

Quote:

Nice peak Gwen! How was the summit?




Rob, it was about the size of a table top--smallest summit I've been on, smaller than Grand Teton. The views were spectacular.

Here's a shot to the east, Cerro Marmolejo. At 6108m, it's the southernmost 6000 meter peak in the world. About a five-day climb, and reportedly very very cold and windy.

Nice Seneca pic, too.

Gwen
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/22/04 09:11 PM

A little Vt ice climbing. (1-18-04)


Toby
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/22/04 09:16 PM

Camel's Hump view from the northwest. (1-21-04)

Toby
Posted by: Chas

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/22/04 09:38 PM

Watch that foot, ....ok its ice climbing, who's going to be falling.
Posted by: scottie_c

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/23/04 06:07 PM

Quote:

A little Vt ice climbing. (1-18-04)


Toby




Hey Toby, is that pic from the townline area?
Posted by: cori

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/23/04 06:18 PM

OK - I fell behind here...

Quote:

The view from the top of the Bark-Eater Cliffs in the ADK's <attachment>




Tim - That has to be my favorite photo I have ever seen here. It made my gut drop. Wow! I really love that one. *****

Toby's Vt mountani in all grey - that is stunning as well. I grew up in Vermont and I can taste the air in that photo.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/25/04 03:04 AM

Hey Scottie,

That is townline. For all who don't know about it check out www.emba.uvm.edu/~smaciejo/townlineice/townline.pdf for all the info. A big thanks to captain no pro for putting it all together.

attached more townline.....

Toby
Posted by: CaptainNoPro

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/25/04 06:49 PM

Nice shots Toby!

Here are some shots from willoughby last week
1: Climbers on Who's who in Outer Space NEI5 IV
Posted by: CaptainNoPro

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/25/04 06:55 PM

2: Last Gentleman (NEI5 IV) on the left and Promenade (NEI5+ IV) on the right
Posted by: CaptainNoPro

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/25/04 06:57 PM

3. My friend dennis on the crux of the last gentleman
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 01/25/04 10:01 PM

I can't wait for ice climbing season to start again. In the meantime, we're doing some summer mountaineering. Here's the mountain we climbed this weekend. Volcan Peteroa, an active volcano (sulfur fumaroles) of 4100 meters. The summit is on the Chilean/Argentine border, east of Curico. Best part of the climb was the thermal baths. We camped at Termas de Azufre, five hours from Santiago and right across the Argentine border, which has an entire range of hot baths, from cold glacier water to 45 degrees. Man, that felt nice after the 14 hour summit day!

Gwen
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/01/04 09:23 PM

I went sport climbing (egads!) for the first time today at a bolted area near Santiago. Las Palestras is fairly close, about an hour from northern Santiago, with probably fourty routes from 5.8 to 5.12.

It sure was pleasant in the shade with a brisk breeze, as it's been warm here lately.

Gwen
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/02/04 06:20 PM

A little bit of Giant Mountain.
Posted by: RangerRob

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/03/04 01:28 PM

Interestting shot of the face. You can't make out the overhang in the Hesitation corner at all.

RR
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/03/04 04:10 PM

not climbing but still awesome....lake champlain has completely frozen over.
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/03/04 04:12 PM

cant resist here's another.
Posted by: Chas

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/03/04 04:25 PM

My god, JohnnyBfishman is claiming a FA of a WI 1 (Lake Champlain, WI 1 IV, 30+ pitches). Jojo claimed in his Canadian Ice book no one would claim a FA of a WI 1.
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/03/04 06:53 PM

Here's some more of Giant Mountain.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/09/04 09:57 PM

We climbed a peak (really a hike) called Cerro Union (3658m) yesterday. The mountain isn't a standout, but the views were spectacular. Trailhead about two hours from Santiago. The attached is to the east. Loma Larga (5404m) is the glaciated massif in the center/left, and Punta Italia (4863) is the black triangular peak on the right.

I'm off to Bariloche, Argentina this weekend for some rock climbing. Hope to come back with some good beta and pictures.

Gwen
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/10/04 03:36 PM

Here is a picture from Enchanted Tower in New Mexico back in November. This is me on the first pitch of Goliath (12c) if you continue to the top its 13a, Basically a 12c to an ok rest into a 12b. Its a great route with lots of exposure.
Jay
Posted by: d-elvis

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/10/04 03:47 PM

Quote:

I'm off to Bariloche, Argentina this weekend for some rock climbing. Hope to come back with some good beta and pictures.

Gwen




How about a pic with you in it? your boot? a companion?
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/11/04 12:47 AM

Quote:

How about a pic with you in it? your boot? a companion?




You asked for it. This is NOT one of my rock climbing partners.

But it was a special moment, as I'm sure you can appreciate!

(I'm the one on the right, in case you were confused. Pardon the goofy look)

Gwen
Posted by: intrepid02

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/11/04 01:11 AM

Damn Gwen! You're a colonel! Full bird no less!

(I got help decipering that one.)
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/11/04 04:48 AM

Anyone know what route this is?

Hint its not Vermont.

Toby
Posted by: oenophore

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/11/04 11:38 AM

Pardon the goofy look

The goofy look is cute; no apology needed!
Posted by: irisharehere

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/11/04 02:10 PM

Looks like the Kor roof? Definately somewhere out west!!!

Oh alright, its in the damn header!!!!! Definately have to get out there sometime!

Irish
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/11/04 03:14 PM

Man and I thought was somewhere at Rumney!
Jay
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 02/17/04 01:26 PM

Another Adirondack High Peak
Posted by: GwenL

Rock Climbing in Patagonia - 02/17/04 10:35 PM

I returned yesterday from Bariloche, Argentina, and the climbing was spectacular.

Friday, I climbed at the local crag with the Argentine Army mountain school. Granite outcrops, called Piedras Blancas, with top roping. The school (mostly through the efforts of a U.S. Army exchange instructor) has installed anchor bolts at the tops of most routes, as these climbs are well used and the rock is difficult to protect, with few handy trees or cracks at the tops.

You can get to these from Bariloche via a dirt road, any type of vehicle, in about 30 minutes from downtown.

Gwen
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Rock Climbing in Patagonia - 02/17/04 10:40 PM

Saturday, we went via 4WD to Refugio Lopez, at the center of Cerro Lopez, a granite/schist massif west of Bariloche. We took the vehicle to save time, as I only had a few days to climb. It's a 40 minute drive versus three or four hour hike. From the refugio, it is an hour approach to several climbs. On Saturday, we climbed the northern peak. The route starts at the patch of snow and goes straight up the crack. At the ridgeline, it traverses left to the summit. It's about 7 pitches, rated 5.7, but I think it was more like 5.6 with perhaps two 5.7 moves. Quite beautiful, and the views were spectacular. It stays in shadow all day long, which makes me think that it's probably a spectacular ice line in the winter.

Gwen
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Rock Climbing in Patagonia - 02/17/04 10:45 PM

On Sunday, we climbed the southern peak of Cerro Lopez. The route takes the crack furthest to the left in the photo, to about halfway up, then traverses to the next crack system to the right. It was seven pitches of sustained 5.8, with a few 5.9 moves. Very vertical and very exposed. About 3/4 of the way up, as I was following up to the belay, we heard this swishing noise and looked down to see an adult male condor sailing by underneath us. No photo (my hands were full!) but his wingspan was at least 3 meters. You can tell the male by the white markings on the tops of the wings, and the white crest. Spectacular.

Gwen
Posted by: danskiz

Mt. Washington - 02/23/04 06:15 AM

Spent a couple days on the rockpile last week. This time I brought my digital camera! Here is one of my favorite pics.
Posted by: danskiz

Re: Mt. Washington - 02/23/04 06:17 AM

Here's another.
Posted by: danskiz

Re: Mt. Washington - 02/23/04 06:21 AM

Here's another from the top of central gully just before sunrise.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Mt. Washington - 02/23/04 04:01 PM

wow, it doesn't look there's much snow there this year.
Posted by: danskiz

Re: Mt. Washington - 02/23/04 04:09 PM

The ravines are pretty deep, but the alpine garden to the summit is pretty sad. They really havn't got that much snow this year, and what has come down on the summit just gets blown into the ravines.
Posted by: GwenL

Guess the climb - 03/04/04 12:29 AM

It's north of here. But then, nearly everything is north of here.

Gwen
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Guess the climb - 03/04/04 12:32 AM

Here's another, same general area.

Gwen
Posted by: Smike

Re: Guess the climb - 03/04/04 01:39 PM

Gwen I'm in love. I don't know where it is, but I must climb it.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Guess the climb - 03/04/04 02:58 PM

Gwen, what's the quality of the surrounding rock in the first picture? Looks like it would be a phenomenal link-up of the ice ribbon and the rock peak above. Egads, you've got yourself an enviable playground down there!
Posted by: Chas

Re: Guess the climb - 03/04/04 03:59 PM

Gwen, I guess you had a good trip to Calgary,

Nice pics

And Nerdom, in the summer the rock is your typical useless choss, but in the winter- you're in heaven.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Guess the climb - 03/04/04 04:21 PM

ah, so are these pics from Calgary, not Chile?
Posted by: Smike

Re: Guess the climb - 03/04/04 06:41 PM

definitely those two climbs are on the Icefields parkway. Is the second pic Mount Elliot Gully?
Posted by: TimTheClimber

Re: Guess the climb - 03/04/04 11:19 PM

Shhh... don't tell anyone, but if you can't guess the climb, look at the address bar when you click the attachment link.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Guess the climb - 03/05/04 01:31 AM

Both climbs are in the Canadian Rockies.

The first is Polar Circus. You can't see all of the upper pitches, but you can get a feel for the scale of the thing. Around 10 pitches. As someone said, it's on the Icefields Parkway.

The second is Anorexia Nervosa, in the Ghost Wilderness east of Canmore and accessible only by 4WD. The area is full of climbs, and gets very little snow accumulation because of winds.

Gwen
Posted by: oenophore

Re: Guess the climb - 03/05/04 11:23 AM

accessible only by 4WD

Don't tell me you drove all the way from Chile!!
Posted by: Chas

Re: Guess the climb - 03/05/04 03:02 PM

Gets little snow????


Last time I was there we had about 10inches of fresh snow driving in and it snowed another 6 inches during the day (which made getting back up the Big Hill a major chore) . How did you like the Ghost. It really is a nice place to climb.
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Guess the climb - 03/05/04 07:22 PM

speaking of guess the climb, I have no idea where this is. It's an internet ad for UConn's MBA program. Don't ask me what the hell climbing has to do with an MBA. Also, you'd think they could choose a Connecticut climb. This doesn't look like anyplace in CT I've climbed (but I could be wrong).
Posted by: Anonymous

Re: Guess the climb - 03/05/04 07:48 PM

outerlimits
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Guess the climb - 03/05/04 08:50 PM

where is it? what's it rated?
Posted by: oenophore

Re: Guess the climb - 03/05/04 08:57 PM

Read all about it.
Posted by: Chas

Re: Guess the climb - 03/05/04 09:43 PM

Doesn't look like Outer Limits (5.10b p1) (this is Outer Limits). It definately is at the Cookie, but looks more like Red Zinger (5.11d) which is what I will be warming up on tomorrow.

Ok that pic sucks in trying to get to a small enough data file so lets try this one
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Guess the climb - 03/06/04 12:35 AM

Quote:

Last time I was there we had about 10inches of fresh snow driving in and it snowed another 6 inches during the day (which made getting back up the Big Hill a major chore) . How did you like the Ghost. It really is a nice place to climb.





Well, the way the locals explained it to us, the Ghost gets snow but also gets Chinook winds. The winds tend to scour the snow. Thus there are often snow drifts to battle on the drive in, but rarely do you have to posthole on an approach. I'd guess all bets are off during a snow storm, but we were told that after a dump, you have to worry about drifts on the drive in, but very little on the approaches.

I thought the Ghost was wonderful. Climb after climb after climb, and all in the most beautiful setting.

Gwen
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: Guess the climb - 03/06/04 02:14 AM

> I thought the Ghost was wonderful. Climb after climb after climb, and all in the most beautiful setting.

Yea, well...those 30' icefalls we were doing in the rugged, beautiful Catskills the other day were pretty sweet too.
Posted by: GwenL

More Canadian Rockies - 03/06/04 11:36 PM

This is from the top of the third pitch of Polar Circus, looking down

Gwen
Posted by: GwenL

Re: More Canadian Rockies - 03/06/04 11:41 PM

Here's a picture of the top pitches of Guiness Gully, near Field.

Gwen
Posted by: Smike

Re: More Canadian Rockies - 03/07/04 01:22 AM

Stop Gwen stop, my Prozac perscription has run out and its 65 here today.

Seriously those are great photos keep um coming.
Posted by: Bolt_Skytop

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 03/08/04 02:12 AM

And they say there is no ice in RMNP.
Posted by: Bolt_Skytop

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 03/08/04 02:18 AM

Me on the West Gully. Looking down on Black Lake.
Posted by: scottie_c

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 03/09/04 02:16 AM

smugglers notch, VT yesterday (3/07)
Posted by: scottie_c

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 03/09/04 02:20 AM

driving force, NEI 4. there is still good ice here.
Posted by: scottie_c

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 03/09/04 02:28 AM

another smuggs shot. jeffs slide - note the pouring water

the top out was much like that masters of stone with dan osman using ice axes to climb that water fall...
Posted by: Layback

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 03/11/04 06:03 PM

This isn't notworthy - I just needed to get this on the net so I could email it to a friend. Sorry.

Posted by: chazman

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 04/01/04 03:02 PM

41413 Views, 827 Replies and the photo gallery is up and running! I guess it's time to retire this thread and in doing so I'll post a shot of Lester on his latest "project". On the set of the upcoming CBS series "Numbers" that he and Ms. LeBlanc wrote and are producing. Send it Lester, Send!
Posted by: GeeVee

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 04/01/04 05:25 PM

Which one is the erstwhile Mr. LeBlanc?
Posted by: cori

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 04/01/04 10:53 PM

Maybe the only one in shorts?
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 06/27/04 10:04 PM

Quote:

Which one is the erstwhile Mr. LeBlanc?




I'm the guy behind the camera.

This might sound insane. But we are actually reshooting the entire pilot all over again in September. (Recasting one of the lead actors.)
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 06/27/04 10:34 PM

And just 'cause I'm not around Gunks.com as much, I don't see why we have to retire this thread.

Plenty of people out there not climbing at the Gunks.

Here's what I was up to yesterday. Trying to get ready for a Valley trip with Chazman. The Power Wall along Malibu Creek. Climber on left is hanging on Power Station 10b, while ex-Gunkie Doug Hunter gets ready to lead Rolling Blackout 10d.

While there are seven good sport routes on the Power Wall, Rolling Blackout turned out to be by far the best outing. To the right of the first bolt, we found a fun V2 start that sends you straight up into the crux of RB.

Good pocket pulling! Bring tape.

Power Wall PHOTO
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 06/27/04 10:43 PM

Maybe it is time to retire this thread ...

I'm not sure what everyone else's experience is ... but I'm being told that you cannot attach a file greater than 5000 bytes!

Yo, Evan. Has the site run out of space for photos?

I couldn't even link a photo using the "Image" UBB code. Had to go for a straight URL link.

Hmmm.
Posted by: chazman

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 06/28/04 11:59 AM

If you drop Evan a PM he's (usually) glad to up your photo space on the server. But that aside... this thread (and the Gunks Photo Du Jour) were the most active threads ever. Evan takes the time to set up a really great photo gallery and (for the most part) no one uses it! What gives?
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 06/28/04 05:50 PM

Quote:

If you drop Evan a PM he's (usually) glad to up your photo space on the server. But that aside... this thread (and the Gunks Photo Du Jour) were the most active threads ever. Evan takes the time to set up a really great photo gallery and (for the most part) no one uses it! What gives?




I'm just trying to figure out the whole thing. I went to the Photo Gallery and it said that I had already uploaded over 9Mbytes when I haven't uploaded a single photo. So ... I'm wondering if all the previous photos I put up on this thread have been counted against my total limit.

Cause right now I'm 7Mbytes OVER my limit. Which apparently means I can't upload any photos at all ... in the threads or in the gallery.

Posted by: MarcC

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 06/28/04 06:28 PM

Quote:

Evan takes the time to set up a really great photo gallery and (for the most part) no one uses it! What gives?



I'm not sure folks aren't using it as there seems to be quite a few photos added after the implementation of the gallery software. IOW there are more photos than just the ones that existed on the site before the software. If people aren't using it, I'd guess that the perception among the users of this forum is that the new photo software and process has reduced the overall usability and usefullness of posting photos. In short, it makes a formerly simple process a lot more complex and it somewhat dissassociates the photos from the discussion forums.

The new photo gallery software is powerful and feature laden. It addresses issues such as controlling server space, categorizing images, keeping titles and descriptions associated with images - all things that were needed. However, there is now a separate place to go to on the site to look at photos. There is more effort involved in getting the URL of a photo to add to a forum post. There is a facility to comment/discuss each photo, but it does make discussion of a category a la "whatever photo de jour" with immediately referenced images more difficult. Folks may not like this change.

Before the gallery software, you could start / reply to a thread by posting "Hey, check out this photo of <really cool route> at <great area>.", hit the "attach file" button, select a file to upload, and be done. Now, for a person unfamiliar with the new software & process, like temporarily absent Lester LeBlanc was, the task flow is:

While reading the Non-Gunks Photo De Jour thread, LLB decides to reply to a post with a new photo. He clicks on "attach file" and realizes that the size limit is now 5K. What to do? He cancels out of the reply screen and sees the "Photo Gallery" link and tries that. So....

Click on Photo Gallery
On the gallery page, click on Upload Photos
Select a Category via a drop-down list box
Select a photo from his local drive by navigating it's tree structure
Click on the Upload / Submit button
View the Add Photos Select / Configure Properties screen (and possibly realize that a list of photos can be uploaded at once)
Check and/or reselct the Category
Optionally select Optional Category 1 and Optional Category 2 (all three categories have the same items in the drop-down list - it's unclear how the main category and the optional ones interact with each other)
Add (apparently optional) Title, Description, and Keywords
Click the Process button
View a message screen that states "No more images found. Click here to return to the main menu."
Arrive at the main Photo Gallery menu screen

OK, now that the photo is uploaded, time to return to the original task - replying to a forum post with an attached photo. So LLB clicks either Main Index or Discussion from the site header, re-navigates to the correct form and topic and locates the post he wanted to reply to. He clicks on Reply, enters some text, and.......wonders how to find out the url of the image he just uploaded.

LLB navigates back to the photo gallery, clicks on the catagory he uploaded to and sees his photo there. There's info listed with the photo, but no url. He tries clicking on the photo and gets the original image which he notices has additional info and (currently empty) comments, including a UBB [img] tag with a url.

So now he copies the url to his clipboard, exits the gallery, renavigates (this would be the third time) to the discussion section, correct forum, proper topic, correct post, reenters his text (if it was extensive, did he remember to save it in a temporary doc somewhere to make the clipboard available to copy the url into?), and pastes in the UBB image reference. Finally he posts his reply.

All in all, a miserable user experience compared to what it had been. Even if a user knew the new task flow, there's a lot of extra work involved. This is NOT a matter of "user training" or "reading the instructions". It's a matter of sub-optimal design.

Given the constraints of using packaged software that can't be modified, and that this site may not even be breaking even let alone actually making money, I don't know if an improved solution exists or is worth the effort (= time = money) and I'm certainly not taking Evan to task over this. But it would sure be nice to be able to have a discussion topic that easily attaches/references images and isn't in a place separate from the disucssion forums (like the current photo comments feature).
Posted by: chazman

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 06/28/04 07:02 PM

I knew someone would call me on that ... which is why I was careful to add "(for the most part)". My comment came from the observation that before the gallery there was almost a photo being added every day... but now I find myself being the top contributor ... and my stuff ain't so great. Where are all the talented photogrophers out there?

I have added a dozen or so photos since April and find the process pretty easy but maybe not as easy as the old attach and post method. However... that old photo du jour thread is getting a little time consuming to navigate since there are many comments among the photos and you don't get a thumbnail preview.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 06/28/04 07:19 PM

Add to all that ... I can't even upload to the Gallery. Apparently I have exceeded my limit by 7Mbytes without uploading a single photo.

I can well understand and sympathize with Evan's thankless job creating and maintaining this site. A discussion thread that is dedicated and open to photos would be great. But if a Photo Gallery is more optimal for keeping the site in working order, I'm totally down with that. I'd be happy to make posts with tags to the photos in the Gallery. But for me, two problems. Okay, three. One, as Marc detailed, it is a bit of work. Two, I can't load photos to the Gallery. Three, the Image UBB tag will not work for me. (I originally tried using it to post the Power Wall photo and I couldn't get it to take no matter what.)

The easiest solution is for people to upload a photo, and then post in the appropriate thread that they placed a new photo in the gallery and then people can click their own way over. This makes it easier on the person submitting photos and it keeps all the photos in a centralized, easily accessed area. Though it may cut down on the number of people willing to spend the extra time navigating over to the photo.

If the UBB image tag could work ... and if it was easy to create ... that would be the best of both worlds. But we don't seem to have that ease of use yet.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 06/28/04 07:34 PM

This is a test ...



And it actually works!

And it's not too hard to do. Yay!

However, I think I would have had a helluva time figuring it out if Marc had not discovered that you have to click on the "Properties" of a photo in the Gallery and paste and copy the URL from there to the UBB tag to make it work.

Mucho gracias, Marc!
Posted by: Smike

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 06/28/04 07:35 PM

I used to post a lot more photos, but as stated above its now a much more time and labor intensive process. I have to delete stuff to make room, then resize it under 80k, upload it, fill out a form, then link it to a post. I have enough trouble finding time and effort to maintain my own photo site, let only having to manage a photo gallery here (Even if I had Evan up my storage limit, which I don't want to since again having to maintain it.) When it was as easy as adding to a conversation it was doable, now I don't bother much. (Easier to post them to my server and send a link to friends via e-mail) But I give Evan credit for trying to do big things here.

It would be nice to post photo's in threads again, talk about them, then have them go away after a time period so I don't have to bother with them.
Posted by: Mike Rawdon

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 06/28/04 08:33 PM

Here's what turned me off - all the pics I'd posted previously were in my "personal gallery". A lot of that was crap, and I promptly flushed it. But some of them I figured would be of value, and I wanted to put each pic where it could be found. Like if it's an ice climbing shot, I moved it to Ice Climbing. So far, so good.

But this didn't MOVE it, it COPIED it. Leaving my PG still rather big. So I deleted the pics in there after I'd "moved" them to a more sensible home. But deleting my PG copy ALSO DELETED THE OTHER "COPY". Result - pic all gone.

Now maybe I am missing something. If so, someone please clue me in.

The new Marc-Lester process ends up with viewable pics in the post. I like that. Maybe it's time to get back in the pool, so to speak.
Posted by: MarcC

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 06/28/04 09:43 PM

Quote:

The new Marc-Lester process ends up with viewable pics in the post. I like that.



It's nice, but it's not without disadvantages:

1. Page load times could be long on slow (dial-up) connections. Even with a 56k modem, there are lots of locations where local phone lines can't do better than 28k (or worse). Suppose there are 25 image links on the page and each image is 75k in size..... Even on a high speed connection, 2 Meg / page is a lot of bandwidth.

2. If someone doesn't resize their image to something reasonable - like 600x420 px - and uploads, say, the 2048x1800 pixel that comes out of their camera, it can cause lots of excessive scrolling - both vert. and <shudder> horizontal.

One good implementation would be to have the in-line image in a forum post be a large thumbnail which links to the full size image. Of course this would require a bit of coding, Evan has the gallery software in place, etc....
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 06/29/04 07:19 AM

Quote:

I used to post a lot more photos, but as stated above its now a much more time and labor intensive process. I have to delete stuff to make room, then resize it under 80k, upload it, fill out a form, then link it to a post. I have enough trouble finding time and effort to maintain my own photo site, let only having to manage a photo gallery here (Even if I had Evan up my storage limit, which I don't want to since again having to maintain it.) When it was as easy as adding to a conversation it was doable, now I don't bother much. (Easier to post them to my server and send a link to friends via e-mail) But I give Evan credit for trying to do big things here.

It would be nice to post photo's in threads again, talk about them, then have them go away after a time period so I don't have to bother with them.




I agree. Having that ability was fun. But it's up to Evan and I have to imagine the prospect of a lot of users uploading substantial photo files every day could be a major server space issue.

It is more of a schlep to get photos up. But for me, resizing photo files is most of the schlepping. I always had to resize in the past when attaching photos to posts. And the individual file size limit back then was 100K ... less than what it is now (120K).

Posted by: oenophore

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 06/29/04 10:31 AM

I, among most Gunks.com posters, don't post photos to the gallery. It's a pity UBB Threads isn't set up so those non-posters can donate space to others.
Posted by: chazman

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 06/29/04 12:05 PM

Are you guys all nuts? We’re not talking about writing 5,000 lines of Fortran to get a picture posted. What am I missing that everyone is griping about?
1. Go to Photo Gallery (now be careful, this requires a mouse click)
2. Go to a category that might suit your photo's topic (probably climbing but you can study the options for a while)
3. Click Upload (holy crap... another click is required!)
4. Here comes the tricky part... you will need to browse out to your hard drive to locate your picture. This one may require phone phone support but Evan has lines open 24/7 so don't get discouraged.
5. Click Upload/Submit (oh my god... this is total insanity, another click!)
6. You can now add a title or description to your photo (if you want... but by now you are probably sweating from the strain of this process so you may just want to click (not again) the final submit button)

I CAN'T believe the nerve of this guy to make such a totally complex process to post a photo.

As for the photo being in the topic section and your own gallery... this (IMHO) is good. There isn't really two copies just a place holder for the one copy in two places. I kind of like seeing a nice shot and then being able to click (not again... will the madness ever end!) on "see this users gallery" to see more of their submissions.

Lester, stop posting and go climb
Posted by: Smike

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 06/29/04 12:59 PM

What am I missing that everyone is griping about?

The point is you have to manage those photo's once their up. Before you could post a photo, and never have to think about it again. It took me 20 minutes the other day since I had to delete photos 1st to make room (no matter what the space limit is I would fill it up then have to delete again)

Can photo's posted in threads have a time limit of say 30 days then deleted automatically to save space?
Posted by: strat

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 06/29/04 01:26 PM

Quote:

Are you guys all nuts? We’re not talking about writing 5,000 lines of Fortran to get a picture posted. What am I missing that everyone is griping about?
1. Go to Photo Gallery (now be careful, this requires a mouse click)
2. Go to a category that might suit your photo's topic (probably climbing but you can study the options for a while)
3. Click Upload (holy crap... another click is required!)
4. Here comes the tricky part... you will need to browse out to your hard drive to locate your picture. This one may require phone phone support but Evan has lines open 24/7 so don't get discouraged.
5. Click Upload/Submit (oh my god... this is total insanity, another click!)
6. You can now add a title or description to your photo (if you want... but by now you are probably sweating from the strain of this process so you may just want to click (not again) the final submit button)

I CAN'T believe the nerve of this guy to make such a totally complex process to post a photo.

As for the photo being in the topic section and your own gallery... this (IMHO) is good. There isn't really two copies just a place holder for the one copy in two places. I kind of like seeing a nice shot and then being able to click (not again... will the madness ever end!) on "see this users gallery" to see more of their submissions.

Lester, stop posting and go climb




Sorry Chazman, you struck a nerve and it's time to spew

Bottom line is proof is in the pudding. I work on the back end of new product implementation. I'm the poor bastid who has to introduce new products to customers and help them implement them in their applications. I say poor bastid, because, until very recently, the people who developed said products had no freekin clue what our customer's cared about. As a result, products with glaring fatal flaws in our customer's eyes were introduced.

You know what happens to those products? They don't sell, in other words NOBODY USES THEM.

Is it too hard to do the steps? No, but, it's obviously too hard for this bunch of consumers, as evidenced by the near-complete drop in photo posting on this site. It don't matter what the product-developers think, it matters what the consumers do.

rant off. thanks for listening.
Posted by: chazman

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 06/29/04 01:55 PM

OK guys, I hear what you are saying (and I can't argue since prrof is in the pudding... no more photos being posted) but I still don't get this "manage" thing. How many photos do you want to submit? I just dropped Evan a PM (as he stated from the beginning) and he upped my disk space. I have yet to "manage" anything.
Posted by: MarcC

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 06/29/04 08:27 PM

Quote:

Is it too hard to do the steps? No, but, it's obviously too hard for this bunch of consumers, as evidenced by the near-complete drop in photo posting on this site.




To put a finer point on it.....
It's not a matter of being too difficult or that the users of this site are too dumb. Instead, the benefit provided is not great enough to make the effort worthwhile.

The cognitive task of navigation to the right places in the correct order, copy/paste the proper item to the appropriate place, etc. puts up a series of roadblocks in allowing the site user to accomplish his/her goal - easily sharing a photo with others in the forum. It's the same underlying reason why lots of very intelligent people have VCRs at home flashing 12:00 and why one of the reasons Tivo has become so popular. A VCR has simple steps - a lot of them - to set the time and program it to record a show whereas the steps with Tivo are almost a 1:1 mapping to the goal of "record my favorite show".

Quote:

It don't matter what the product-developers think, it matters what the consumers do.



That encapsulates it perfectly. Adding my favorite two:

"The interface is the product"
"If the user can't find it, the function (or feature) doesn't exist."
Posted by: oenophore

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 06/29/04 08:53 PM

So who is going to write Gunks.com for Dummies?
Posted by: d-elvis

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 06/30/04 02:56 PM

So who is going to write Gunks.com for Dummies?

I'll start it as soon as I complete

High E for Dummies
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 06/30/04 04:18 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Is it too hard to do the steps? No, but, it's obviously too hard for this bunch of consumers, as evidenced by the near-complete drop in photo posting on this site.




To put a finer point on it.....
It's not a matter of being too difficult or that the users of this site are too dumb. Instead, the benefit provided is not great enough to make the effort worthwhile.

The cognitive task of navigation to the right places in the correct order, copy/paste the proper item to the appropriate place, etc. puts up a series of roadblocks in allowing the site user to accomplish his/her goal - easily sharing a photo with others in the forum. It's the same underlying reason why lots of very intelligent people have VCRs at home flashing 12:00 and why one of the reasons Tivo has become so popular. A VCR has simple steps - a lot of them - to set the time and program it to record a show whereas the steps with Tivo are almost a 1:1 mapping to the goal of "record my favorite show".

Quote:

It don't matter what the product-developers think, it matters what the consumers do.



That encapsulates it perfectly. Adding my favorite two:

"The interface is the product"
"If the user can't find it, the function (or feature) doesn't exist."




You guys keep talking about "product." But I have a hard time seeing Gunks.com as a product I'm being offered to purchase. It's essentially a free service ... with a few ads.

There's no reason why we can't gripe and/or request for better designed functions on this site. But I do think we have to keep some perspective.

Posted by: MarcC

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 06/30/04 04:46 PM

Quote:

You guys keep talking about "product." But I have a hard time seeing Gunks.com as a product I'm being offered to purchase. It's essentially a free service ... with a few ads.



Perhaps not a product from the perspective of the discussion forum users, but for a paying advertiser who is looking for a maximal number of ad impressions for his/her $$$, it most definitely is.

Quote:


There's no reason why we can't gripe and/or request for better designed functions on this site. But I do think we have to keep some perspective.



That's why I tried to be careful about not saying this, this, and that should be changed. Evan's value proposition needs consideration at least as much as ours if not more so.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 07/02/04 04:41 PM

Back in action ...

Power Station 10b / Malibu Creek, CA

Posted by: Daniel

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 07/05/04 07:35 PM

Did the Kelso Ridge on Torreys Peak in Colorado last week. Weather was marginal, and nothing focuses the mind like being part way up a Class 3 ridge, wondering if you're really on-route, and knowing you have to get yourself up and over before the weather gets worse. Here's a photo of the "notorious" knife-edge near the top; the two guys in the photo said they're not sure they would have known what to do there if I hadn't joined them, because it's easy to think that it can't be on-route (I did my homework on the Internet, so I knew it was).

Have to say that Class 3 in Colorado was a little more than I expected (more because of routefinding than anything else), so I was glad to run into them as well!
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 07/12/04 06:30 PM

Here's a few from a recent trip to Utah...

The Fiery Furnace area of Arches Nat'l park has some pretty sweet arches. You wander through the maze of slots to find them.


The Fiery Furnace area of Arches Nat'l park is comprised of many thin ridges and fingers of rock. Overwhelmed by the scenery, my model decides to take a nap.


On the Colorado River, just before reaching Lake Powell, in Narrow Canyon, this tremendously imposing cliff shoots up directly out of the Colorado river.


My hardest trad onsight to date, Goodro's is a top-notch route. Highly polished rock forces you to use the crack... or else! Here we see Peter cleaning my lead. You can see how steep the climb is by the gear hanging off his harness. Near zero approach, in Big Cottonwood Canyon.
Posted by: andrew

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 07/12/04 09:14 PM

Nice Gabe. Big Cottonwood sure is better than it looks from the road, eh?
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 07/13/04 01:52 PM

Quote:

Nice Gabe. Big Cottonwood sure is better than it looks from the road, eh?




Sure is!

By the way, there's a six of homebrew heading your way as soon as I get my shit together.

GO

Posted by: Coppertone

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 07/13/04 07:07 PM

Is that "slick" rock in Big Cottonwood desert varnish? Looks similar to Red Rocks.
Posted by: andrew

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 07/13/04 07:10 PM

big cottonwood is quartzite. some of it has great friction, but other parts feel like climbing on soapy glass. all the crags look like rubble piles, but the climbing is sure fun, and it is 10 minutes from my house.

looking forward to the 6er - coming out west to give it? i've got a terrific ESB and an acceptable red ale on tap.
Posted by: GOclimb

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 07/14/04 05:52 AM

Quote:

Is that "slick" rock in Big Cottonwood desert varnish? Looks similar to Red Rocks.




No, like andrew said, it's quartzite, and while I don't know exactly the cause, it's a lot like the glacial polish you'll see in some places in yosemite. Honestly, the rock on Goodro's looks almost like it has been polished by a jewler.

Andrew, I _wish_, but no, just the beer. It's a decent IPA - I think you'll find it sevicable!

GO
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 07/14/04 11:08 PM

How do I link a posted photo (on the photo gallery) to this thread?

I posted some new photos a few months ago, but it seems that not many people visit the photo gallery. So I lost interest. We used to have a lot of action and enthusiasm on this thread. I think it's because it was easy for the poster to describe the experience/trip/location and show the photo, and equally easy for everyone else to see the picture, and comment.

What I'd like to do is post a message on this thread, with a link to the photo I'm discussing or showing.

Thanks
Gwen
Posted by: rg@ofmc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 07/14/04 11:26 PM

See MarcC's description on page 42 of this thread.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 07/15/04 10:43 PM

I don't see a post by MarcC on page 42.

I had hoped this would be easy. I guess not.
Posted by: MarcC

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 07/15/04 10:54 PM

Here's a direct link to my post that I think is the one RG is referring to. It's post #108814. I think page numbers depend on your personalized posts displayed per page setting. EG: I only show 18 pages for the whole thread, but I display 50 posts / page.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 07/16/04 11:55 PM

Well, that didn't link to anything except a blank page. I shouldn't have to do anything but click on it, should I?

Thanks anyways.

Gwen
Posted by: chazman

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 07/17/04 08:33 PM

The link works fine for me when I click on it, here's the post...
______________________________

I'm not sure folks aren't using it as there seems to be quite a few photos added after the implementation of the gallery software. IOW there are more photos than just the ones that existed on the site before the software. If people aren't using it, I'd guess that the perception among the users of this forum is that the new photo software and process has reduced the overall usability and usefullness of posting photos. In short, it makes a formerly simple process a lot more complex and it somewhat dissassociates the photos from the discussion forums.

The new photo gallery software is powerful and feature laden. It addresses issues such as controlling server space, categorizing images, keeping titles and descriptions associated with images - all things that were needed. However, there is now a separate place to go to on the site to look at photos. There is more effort involved in getting the URL of a photo to add to a forum post. There is a facility to comment/discuss each photo, but it does make discussion of a category a la "whatever photo de jour" with immediately referenced images more difficult. Folks may not like this change.

Before the gallery software, you could start / reply to a thread by posting "Hey, check out this photo of <really cool route> at <great area>.", hit the "attach file" button, select a file to upload, and be done. Now, for a person unfamiliar with the new software & process, like temporarily absent Lester LeBlanc was, the task flow is:

While reading the Non-Gunks Photo De Jour thread, LLB decides to reply to a post with a new photo. He clicks on "attach file" and realizes that the size limit is now 5K. What to do? He cancels out of the reply screen and sees the "Photo Gallery" link and tries that. So....

Click on Photo Gallery
On the gallery page, click on Upload Photos
Select a Category via a drop-down list box
Select a photo from his local drive by navigating it's tree structure
Click on the Upload / Submit button
View the Add Photos Select / Configure Properties screen (and possibly realize that a list of photos can be uploaded at once)
Check and/or reselct the Category
Optionally select Optional Category 1 and Optional Category 2 (all three categories have the same items in the drop-down list - it's unclear how the main category and the optional ones interact with each other)
Add (apparently optional) Title, Description, and Keywords
Click the Process button
View a message screen that states "No more images found. Click here to return to the main menu."
Arrive at the main Photo Gallery menu screen

OK, now that the photo is uploaded, time to return to the original task - replying to a forum post with an attached photo. So LLB clicks either Main Index or Discussion from the site header, re-navigates to the correct form and topic and locates the post he wanted to reply to. He clicks on Reply, enters some text, and.......wonders how to find out the url of the image he just uploaded.

LLB navigates back to the photo gallery, clicks on the catagory he uploaded to and sees his photo there. There's info listed with the photo, but no url. He tries clicking on the photo and gets the original image which he notices has additional info and (currently empty) comments, including a UBB [img] tag with a url.

So now he copies the url to his clipboard, exits the gallery, renavigates (this would be the third time) to the discussion section, correct forum, proper topic, correct post, reenters his text (if it was extensive, did he remember to save it in a temporary doc somewhere to make the clipboard available to copy the url into?), and pastes in the UBB image reference. Finally he posts his reply.

All in all, a miserable user experience compared to what it had been. Even if a user knew the new task flow, there's a lot of extra work involved. This is NOT a matter of "user training" or "reading the instructions". It's a matter of sub-optimal design.

Given the constraints of using packaged software that can't be modified, and that this site may not even be breaking even let alone actually making money, I don't know if an improved solution exists or is worth the effort (= time = money) and I'm certainly not taking Evan to task over this. But it would sure be nice to be able to have a discussion topic that easily attaches/references images and isn't in a place separate from the disucssion forums (like the current photo comments feature).
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 07/17/04 11:55 PM

Well, that's just gonna frighten poor Gwen from ever posting a photo ... and she's got some of the most killer shots around!


Let's boil it down simply:

1) Go to the Photo Gallery

2) Upload photo

3) once the photo is uploaded, right-click on the photo and select "Properties."

4) Highlight the URL address and select "copy."

5) Create a new post in the "Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour" thread.

6) Just below the text window for the new post, select "Image" from the Instant UBB Code box.

7) Paste the photo's URL address that you copied into the UBB Code box window that pops up. Click "OK."

8) Add any text to accompany photo.


It sounds more complicated than it is. After you do it once, you will probably find it fairly simple and fast.

Voila!




Posted by: andrew

Colorado skiing in July - 07/18/04 02:52 PM



We climbed and then skiied the couloir coming right off the summit that is partially blocked by my ski. Its the Grizzly Couloir on 13,988' Grizzly Peak near Aspen. 1200' of skiing, and the upper section averages 45-50 degrees(we measured it with a slope meter).
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Colorado skiing in July - 07/21/04 11:02 PM

We'll see if this works.

This is a shot of the full moon setting in the U-notch colouir in the Palisades, right at dawn.


Gwen



Edited to add: well, how do I make it big enough for people to actually see the photo?
Posted by: MarcC

Re: Colorado skiing in July - 07/22/04 12:20 AM

Quote:

Edited to add: well, how do I make it big enough for people to actually see the photo?



By pasting in the URL for the full size image you uploaded. The inline image in your post is the thumbnail automatically generated by the photo gallery software when you uploaded. (Unless you uploaded a thumbnail instead of the full image - I couldn't find the full-size version in the photo gallery).

So.....
* go to the photo gallery and find your image
* click on the thumbnail to go to the full size image
* scroll down below the image to the image info and find the line that is labeled "UBB Code"
* copy that code and paste it into your post

Remember that if everyone pastes in the url to their photos as an inline image reference (so that the image displays directly in the post).......
* it will take a loooooooooong time for folks on dial-up connections - so much that they might never bother to view this thread
* bandwidth usage will greatly increase for the gunks.com server, costing Evan $$$

Therefore, as nice as it is for photos to display in the post, it might be better for everyone to just put the url of the image as a link, instead of placing it inside [ image ] UBB tags.

Oh, if your camera generates large images, it's probably a good idea to resize them down to maybe 800x600 or smaller with your photo editing software.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Colorado skiing in July - 07/22/04 10:31 PM

Hmmm.

I did not upload a "thumbnail," at least I didn't intend to. I thought I uploaded to "members galleries" but I can't find the photo there either. i'm trying it again.

At the same time, I'd prefer to just post a link with my "photo du jour" posting. Seems like it'd be just as easy for the viewer as clicking on the old "attachment" link at the top of the post.

I could not get that to work. How does that work? Posting a link, that is.

Thanks
Gwen

Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Colorado skiing in July - 07/23/04 02:17 AM

Gwen:

You're right, you did not upload a thumbnail image. What Marc was saying is that once you uploaded your photo to the Gallery, the Gallery automatically creates a thumbnail image to use in its menus. What you did was copy and paste the URL from the thumbnail. What you want to do is copy and paste the URL from the full-size photo. Which just means going to the gallery and clicking until you get the full-size photo displayed on your screen, then right-clicking it, select "Properties" as you did before and then copy and pasting the URL info to the UBB Code in a post.

If you'd like to try the clickable link method that Marc suggested, you simply copy and paste the photo's URL and use the "URL" UBB Code tag instead of the "Image" UBB tag.

Like so:

Grand Teton Summit


PS: I looked for your photo in the Gallery and did not find it. Somehow the upload didn't take or it got placed in a different area or it just went missing.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Colorado skiing in July - 07/23/04 11:34 PM

I've uploaded the same photo twice into my member's gallery. I have no idea where it went. it doesn't appear under "last 7 days," so I have to assume it has gone somewhere permanently. I know I uploaded it; where else would I get that silly thumbprint?

I think if I try it again, and use the "URL," when the upload disappears, it will then be a bad link.

This is just getting too difficult and consuming far too much time. I wish we had a system that was as user friendly as the previous one.

Oh, well.

Gwen
Posted by: MarcC

Re: Colorado skiing in July - 07/24/04 12:30 AM

Two possibilities are:
1) The photo you're trying to upload exceeds the file size limit of 80K.
2) With your existing photos already in the gallery, you may have exceeded the default per user disk space (I think it's 750K).

Doesn't the gallery software generate an appropriate message in either of those cases?

You can get more disk space by asking Evan - PM the Webmaster.
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Colorado skiing in July - 07/24/04 09:50 PM

Quote:

Two possibilities are:
1) The photo you're trying to upload exceeds the file size limit of 80K.
2) With your existing photos already in the gallery, you may have exceeded the default per user disk space (I think it's 750K).





Neither of those are true.

Thanks, though.

Gwen
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 07/24/04 09:59 PM

OK, let's try this one more time. Hopefully, this is a link to a photo in the photo gallery. I took this on 4 July, from the Palisade glacier, right at dawn.

Gwen

U-Notch
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 07/24/04 10:56 PM

Worked perfectly!


I wrote to Evan to see if he'd be willing to increase my photo gallery allowance ... haven't heard back from him.

Maybe he's on vacation?
Posted by: GwenL

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 07/25/04 01:05 AM

Well, flushed with success, she said, I'll try one more.

This is a volcano we climbed in April, Volcan Villarrica. It is active; that's smoke coming out of the cone. It's in Southern Chile, in the lake district. I took this picture the day prior during another hike; the weather was horrible when we climbed Villarrica. The normal route is on the other side, and has no crevasses, really just snowfields. I climbed the side in this picture three years ago, and those are some nasty crevasses.

Villarrica


Gwen
Posted by: cfa

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 08/13/04 03:18 AM

Hmm, well, now that I'm thoroughly intimidated by all the info on how to actually get a pic up here, here's my first stab at it:
Syke's Sickle

It's a bit overexposed (the photo, not the climbing!), but this is the totally fab first pitch of Syke's Sickle on Spearhead in Rocky Mountain National Park. (The first 150 of 800 feet, which we unfortunately didn't finish due to snow/hail.) You can see the "sickle" up above. We were sort of huddling inside it when we decided to come down...

You can see the whole formation here (the route is in the shadowed portion of the rock).
Spearhead

-Carissa
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 08/13/04 07:33 AM

Worked like a charm!

Thanks for the cool photos!
Posted by: Smike

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 08/13/04 01:21 PM

Nice pics. Did you get to check out the off-width Bombay chimney?

Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/29/04 04:30 PM

A preview from my trip to the valley with chazman.

He's got all the cool photos ... but here's the obvious one ...


Posted by: RangerRob

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/29/04 07:37 PM

What's that..about 3 or 4 pitches long? Looks kinda easy.

RR
Posted by: andrew

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/30/04 01:20 AM

This is the start of the second pitch of Chip Tower along the White Rim in Canyonlands. We bailed 15' from the top of a 350' tower because of a mandatory knifeblade move(nailing is not allowed in Canyonlands). Total bummer - next time i will bring the cheater stick.

Posted by: GOclimb

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/30/04 02:33 PM

Absolutely gorgeous, Andrew!

GO
Posted by: nerdom

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/30/04 06:40 PM

Is that your Gunks rack?
Posted by: Smike

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/30/04 06:51 PM

Aiding in rock shoes..... man that's hardcore.
Posted by: andrew

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 09/30/04 08:11 PM

i aid just about everything in rock shoes. the only times i don't is if there is no possible chance i'll free anything on the pitch or if i am on something really hard that will take me longer than 2 hours to lead. with the rock shoes on i can easily switch to free climbing and it makes me go faster so i can get out of them. on that lead, there was a very heads up tension traverse near the top on 00 tcu's, black aliens, and #1-2 lowe balls. the rock shoes made it way easier to stay off the mank gear as much as i could. the last pitch that i ended up having to bail on had terrifying 5.9 R free climbing after an aid move off a bolt with a backbreaker ledge below. glad i had the free shoes for both pitches.

i definitely had to grow my rack a bit when i started climbing in the desert. god help the world's aluminum reserves if d-elvis were to start climbing out here.
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/03/04 05:57 PM

chazman ... dude ... you can't upload my "glory" shot and not post it here!

(Now ... as for the shots of me trying to wedge my fat self through the chimney ... that one you can leave out!)

Posted by: chazman

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/03/04 10:04 PM

Shouldn't you be working?
Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/04/04 04:21 PM

Quote:

Shouldn't you be working?




You think I'm not? It's been non-stop since we got back. 7am calls everyday and we usually finish the last shot at around 10:30pm. On Wednesday, we wrapped at midnight.

Yosemite seems like an entire lifetime ago.

Here's what life looked like a week ago ...



Here's what life looks like now ...





Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/09/04 11:17 PM

Another shot of the incredible pitch 4 on the East Buttress.

Super flakes and edges ... with plenty of exposure.

Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/13/04 11:03 PM

A few more shots in anticipation of chazman's trip report ...

chazman on the next to last pitch of the East Buttress of El Cap ... watch those loose rocks!



Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/13/04 11:06 PM

Ken Yager getting into a powerful groove ... a nicely exposed 5.9+++ hand crack. And after that ... an off-width!

Posted by: LesterLeBlanc

Re: Non-Gunks Photo Du Jour - 10/13/04 11:08 PM

And finally ... after an easy 9 mile stroll ... chazman chills on the Visor of Half Dome.