arizona

Posted by: fixie

arizona - 02/09/09 07:23 PM

Hey! Heading to arizona next week. Thinking of hitting up Mt Lemmon and maybe cochese. Anyone have any favorite areas?
Thanks!
Posted by: chip

Re: arizona - 02/09/09 07:55 PM

Browndog2 was out there last year.
Posted by: cfa

Re: arizona - 02/09/09 08:32 PM

At Mt Lemmon, we seem to always spend a lot of time at Windy Point, and the one or two pull-outs before the main one. You may already know this, but if you haven't been to Lemmon before, and plan to use "Squeezing the Lemmon II" as your guidebook, it's very very handy to go to mountainproject.com and copy the mile marker changes. They massively overhauled the highway up there, and moved the mile marker posts. The first couple of times we were there, we spent a ton of time wandering around trying to figure out which formations were where, only to find out that the mile markers weren't quite right. It's much more fun to go there now that we kind of know the lay of the land. I've only climbed at Cochise once, at Sheepshead (which was great), so I can't say anything comparative about the other areas there. But it's a great place to climb.
Posted by: Chas

Re: arizona - 02/09/09 08:53 PM

Depends on what you like , how long you are going to be there..... This week Az is getting hit hard with weather, 12 inches of snow in No Az yesterday, 22" today ..... which will probably translate to a good drenching in So Az.

If you really like long indian creek like sandstone routes (and assuming the weather is good) check out Sedona about 1 hr north of Phoenix. The routes range from chossy, to ok, to great to one of the best routes I've ever done in the world, bar none.
Posted by: Jim Lawyer

Re: arizona - 02/22/09 01:26 AM

Chas, I've gotta ask, which route at Sedona get such high praise? I haven't been there, but those words may compel me to visit :-)
Posted by: Chas

Re: arizona - 02/23/09 02:35 PM

The route is Shangrila. I haven't gotten onto Moonlight Buttress (hopefully in April) but this is supposed to be nearly as good, but when compared to Rainbow Wall (which is supposed to be one of the best long routes in Red Rocks, Shangrila makes Rainbow Wall look like a pile of kitty litter. It sits about an hour hike up Lost Canyon which is a side branch of Damfino Canyon, but if you do ever want to try it, ask and I can give you better directions then found in either the web or guidebooks

Just two views
http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/463325.JPG and http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/463299.JPG

it is stiff though. P1; 512.a (tips crack or most men go to the arete, 5-6 green C3's (blue aliens). P2: 5.11d fingers lieback flake (skip the two bolts since it will drag your rope into the flake), 2 grey 0.4, and 4 purple 0.5 camalots, P3 5.12d 2 blue 0.3 camalots and 6 bolts or skip the bolts and use 6 green C3's (blue aliens), P4 5.11c varied hands take gear between 0.4 and 3.0 camalot, P5 5.11c (some will say 5.11d) has a wider section but same rack as as pitch 4.

If you are in Sedona and hit up this one (though the rock isn't as awesome as Shangrila), also try Castles in the Sand (5.11d) http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/492275.JPG . P1: beautiful 5.11 rnglocks that seems more like Indian Creek, P2: 5.11d handjam out a 6-7ft roof and jam your way up easier ground to a second roof. P3 5.11d: traverse out a 20ft roof out a fist crack , pull the edge and belay.
Posted by: chip

Re: arizona - 02/23/09 05:08 PM

Unlikely I'll be dragging my old butt up those, but very impressive looking. I'm amazed at the climbs in the Sedona area you've shown us. I had no idea.
Posted by: Chas

Re: arizona - 02/23/09 05:40 PM

Also check out the latest Climbing" magazine in the Gallery section. There is a photo of "Mission from Mars" which is about 500ft to the left of "Castles in the Sands". Its a sports climb. Biggest holds you'll ever fall off of(and overhangs 25-35ft in 85ft).
Posted by: MarcC

Re: arizona - 02/23/09 06:13 PM

 Originally Posted By: Chas
Biggest holds you'll ever fall off of(and overhangs 25-35ft in 85ft).

I always thought that honor fell to Fourteen Shutouts (11d) at Skaha!
Posted by: Chas

Re: arizona - 02/23/09 06:23 PM

 Originally Posted By: MarcC
 Originally Posted By: Chas
Biggest holds you'll ever fall off of(and overhangs 25-35ft in 85ft).

I always thought that honor fell to Fourteen Shutouts (11d) at Skaha!


Haven't been to Skaha yet (have been meaning to for a decade or so) but this thing you could get a buttcheek on most of the holds!!!!
Posted by: BobbyS

Re: arizona - 02/28/09 03:46 AM

I second Castle's in the Sand....
The Mace I thought was excellent...
Rabbit ears Oak creek spire...the tower jump across move on the last pitch is excellent....

"Biggest *!+@# your pants move: North Face/West Crack of Oak Creek Spire..."

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=h...l%3Den%26sa%3DN

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/arizona/sedona/oak_creek_spire_area/106020774

Stunning picture of Shangri-la
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/arizona/sedona/lost_canyon/106190370

Some other stellars....Candyland on Granite Mountain...70 foot roof traverse...this pitch is 5.7 but the rest is 5.9-5.10 (50 Great American Rock Climbs - DuMais)

What's my line at Cochise (5.6; 50 Great American Rock Climbs - DuMais) and Abracabaver (5.11-).
Posted by: drewski

Re: arizona - 03/18/09 03:39 PM

Hello Fixie:

You may want to look at these reports, even though they're a bit dated (like me). http://www.haskell.org/keith/climbing2.html
The writer offers three reports, two from Cochise and one from Lemmon.
Posted by: ianmanger

Re: arizona - 03/18/09 09:22 PM

This set of TR mentions Moby Dick at Cochise. Really fun easy day out. Awesome rap from the top. Am itching to get back out to Cochise. Have fun.

 Originally Posted By: drewski
Hello Fixie:

You may want to look at these reports, even though they're a bit dated (like me). http://www.haskell.org/keith/climbing2.html
The writer offers three reports, two from Cochise and one from Lemmon.
Posted by: John Peterson

Re: arizona - 03/19/09 03:53 PM

Just got back from Cochise. The Wasteland,
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/arizona/cochise_stronghold/the_wasteland/105824762
is awesome as always. As Kerry says, best 5.8 in the state. Some pictures: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/arizona/cochise_stronghold/the_wasteland/105824762
Posted by: talus

Re: arizona - 03/20/09 01:18 AM

Posted by: ianmanger

Re: arizona - 03/20/09 02:36 PM

sweet photo, John..
Posted by: chip

Re: arizona - 03/20/09 06:20 PM

Using the fence the way you did is very effective. Nice.
Posted by: Dillbag

Re: arizona - 03/20/09 09:57 PM

Of course he'd probably blast smike for a fence in a photo wink
Posted by: Smike

Re: arizona - 03/24/09 03:56 PM

Is that a rabbit carcass hanging on that fence wire or is that just road kill..
Posted by: talus

Re: arizona - 03/24/09 05:23 PM

spike you know best on the road kill lazy ass photog thing. get up earlier boy!
Posted by: talus

Re: arizona - 04/02/09 11:14 AM

Chiricahua National Monument Sunrise

Posted by: chip

Re: arizona - 04/02/09 01:50 PM

Love the purple hues. I'm running out of ways to say how nice your work is.
You must have been at some elevation to get that kind of vegetation.
Posted by: oenophore

Re: arizona - 04/02/09 03:34 PM

Originally Posted By: chip
Love the purple hues. I'm running out of ways to say how nice your work is.
You must have been at some elevation to get that kind of vegetation.
I fully agree. That and the photo above it seem to have come out of Arizona Highways magazine.
Posted by: andrew

Re: arizona - 05/28/09 03:21 PM



Lava Falls in the Grand Canyon, AZ. Most of the rock down there is choss, but there is some wonderful bouldering in the side canyons and Redwall cavern.