Posted by: Anonymous
It Doesn't Rain In California - 08/06/01 03:31 PM
Posted by: Chas
Re: It Doesn't Rain In California - 08/06/01 07:35 PM
I really don't suggest climbing at the Pinnacles during the rain or for a couple days after. The rock is a volcanic conglomerate which is ok at its best and can be a chossy terror show at its worst (such as the Balconies as in Powerplay [5.11c] where we pulled out many holds, more then I can count, that were far larger then the bolts were deep). After a rainstorm, the holds AND BOLTS become highly suspect. Even under ideal conditions bolts pull, some with regularity (such as the first bolt protecting the first crux on Feed the Beast [5.11c]).
Having said that there is rock that is a bit better, such as the Monolith with fun routes, such as the soft POD (5.11a), Feed the Beast (5.11c; fairly accurate), Hot Lava Lucy (the easiest 5.13a you'll find), Ubermensch (Sharma's 5.13d/.14a), the funky, Rocket in my Pocket (5.10c) and the crimpy but fun Future Shock (5.12b). And the various routes scattered on the Discovery Wall such as the Ordeal (5.8) and the Verdict (5.11b; thankfully recently rebolted since the rock was completely fractured on the 4th bolt).